Another 2011 Tahoe won’t crank

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

OLEJOE

TYF Newbie
Joined
Sep 8, 2019
Posts
21
Reaction score
5
Hello to everyone. This thing is driving me crazy. 2011 Tahoe won’t turn over or crank. The little line under the gear selection or shifter selection blinks 3 times and goes off. When it stays on it will crank up and run for about 3 seconds. The fuel gauge , Tach and temp gauge are not working. The voltage meter works. Battery is fully charged and on charger. Intermittently traction control and stabilitrack is flashing on the DTC. It has over a half tank of fuel but needle sitting on empty. If and when the starter engages, it turns over fine and fires up. Every thing else is working fine. Could this possibly be a problem with the BCM? I had to have it towed 250 miles to get it home and will have to trailer it to a shop. Any and all suggestions appreciated.
 
OP
OP
O

OLEJOE

TYF Newbie
Joined
Sep 8, 2019
Posts
21
Reaction score
5
Hello to everyone. This thing is driving me crazy. 2011 Tahoe won’t turn over or crank. The little line under the gear selection or shifter selection blinks 3 times and goes off. When it stays on it will crank up and run for about 3 seconds. The fuel gauge , Tach and temp gauge are not working. The voltage meter works. Battery is fully charged and on charger. Intermittently traction control and stabilitrack is flashing on the DTC. It has over a half tank of fuel but needle sitting on empty. If and when the starter engages, it turns over fine and fires up. Every thing else is working fine. Could this possibly be a problem with the BCM? I had to have it towed 250 miles to get it home and will have to trailer it to a shop. Any and all suggestions appreciated.
I also tried to check it out with a code reader but kept getting a message unable to connect.
Also checked every fuse and relay. I checked the cables. Removed the ground cable from the block (no corrosion) cleaned and put dielectric grease on the cable end and on the threads of the bolt. Hooked extra grounds to the fire wall and the frame with no success.
 
Last edited:

thompsoj22

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2018
Posts
689
Reaction score
717
Location
california native "REPUBLICAN" high desert
I also tried to check it out with a code reader but kept getting a message unable to connect.
Also checked every fuse and relay. I checked the cables. Removed the ground cable from the block (no corrosion) cleaned and put dielectric grease on the cable end and on the threads of the bolt. Hooked extra grounds to the fire wall and the frame with no success.


any change if you tweak on the main fuse panel under the hood? open/lift the bail clamps and lift the fuse panel up and than back down securely.**** fuse fractured above the ac dryer? maybe an ignition switch going bad, any change if you apply inward pressure on the key while holding in the start position? have someone hold the key in the start position while you push /pull on battery cables where they enter the lead connectors at the battery. im guessing you have a power problem not a module issue. if the battery to engine block ground cable is faulty the additional grounds wont help.
 
OP
OP
O

OLEJOE

TYF Newbie
Joined
Sep 8, 2019
Posts
21
Reaction score
5
Every thing else works. Power windows, door locks, A/C blower, and all the lights. It will crank and run every now and then but only for 2 or 3 seconds. Something isn’t making a connection somewhere either electronically or physically. I bought the vehicle used 2 or 3 years ago. I took the bottom dash panel off and the little retaining clips were gone. I think the BCM has been changed before is why I think that may be my problem. That and the gauges not working. When you turn the key on, you can hear the throttle body opening and the fuel pump priming. I don’t have a problem taking it to a shop but I don’t want to take it to someone to experiment on it at my expense. Already been out $1200 to get it towed.
 

Doubeleive

Wes
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2017
Posts
26,147
Reaction score
39,143
Location
Stockton, Ca.
Every thing else works. Power windows, door locks, A/C blower, and all the lights. It will crank and run every now and then but only for 2 or 3 seconds. Something isn’t making a connection somewhere either electronically or physically. I bought the vehicle used 2 or 3 years ago. I took the bottom dash panel off and the little retaining clips were gone. I think the BCM has been changed before is why I think that may be my problem. That and the gauges not working. When you turn the key on, you can hear the throttle body opening and the fuel pump priming. I don’t have a problem taking it to a shop but I don’t want to take it to someone to experiment on it at my expense. Already been out $1200 to get it towed.
so.....tried banging on the fuse box or no?
 
OP
OP
O

OLEJOE

TYF Newbie
Joined
Sep 8, 2019
Posts
21
Reaction score
5
so.....tried banging on the fuse box or no?
I did and it cranked more times but still goes dead after 2 or 3 seconds and gauges still not working. The pass lock light stays on while it’s running then goes off after it dies. What does that round thing on the ground cable with wires going to it do? I ran another ground to the engine with jumper cables and it seems to help it crank more often.
 

Doubeleive

Wes
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2017
Posts
26,147
Reaction score
39,143
Location
Stockton, Ca.
I did and it cranked more times but still goes dead after 2 or 3 seconds and gauges still not working. The pass lock light stays on while it’s running then goes off after it dies. What does that round thing on the ground cable with wires going to it do? I ran another ground to the engine with jumper cables and it seems to help it crank more often.
the ground cables are known to corrode from the inside, so it may look ok but still be bad, you could try to replace the ground cable with something off the shelf at the store but that oem cable has a rvc (regulated voltage control) sensor on it, disconnecting that wouldn't hurt anything but it's intended to keep the battery maintained and supposedly for minutely better fuel economy, it wouldn't have anything to do with it starting up or not. if you suspect the ground cable your best price for a oem replacement one is probably rockauto, although amazon and ebay will be around the same price, the stealer will want full price of course.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
132,236
Posts
1,864,462
Members
96,782
Latest member
01burb79
Top