Another electrical gremlin thread

[PPV_2018]

my turn to ask for help.

Short TLDR version: Power locks have gone total apesh*t. Never was a problem until.. our first cold spell. ‘Cold’ being about 45*F outside.


Here’s what we KNOW:

-Tahoe PPV with dual battery set up.
-Truck comes from rust belt and as such:
-Both the chassis ground on passenger side frame rail and grounds on driver side frame rail were quite rusty and corroded. Cleaned these grounds thoroughly with wire brush (more on that in a sec)
-Cleaned all battery contacts, terminals, and the terminals at the battery isolator relay
-Secondary battery has a date of 12/21..making it exactly 3 years old. It is also a cheapo no name brand battery.. so I’m thinking “problem”
-No date on primary battery. It is AC/Delco

Using a digital multimeter:
-Primary battery is reading 12.66v (one hour sitting)
-Secondary battery is reading 12.54v (one hour sitting)
-Charging system is reading between 14.4 and 14.5 between both batteries

BACKSTORY:

Last week we had our first “cold” of the year. About 45*F. After a short drive up the street I parked the truck and as I was getting out swore I heard the power locks activate, but wasn’t entirely sure and the door was unlocked because I had just opened it.. I pressed the door lock button on the door and went inside.

Next morning, it’s a bit warmer out. Around 55*F and sunny. go to get in truck and it is unlocked. Thought it was weird but didn’t think too much of it again.. maybe I pressed the door unlock button while coming out on key fob and didn’t realize it. Go to get breakfast, door locks start freaking out. Unlocking itself every 30 seconds or so.. keep it mind that it is only the driver door lock unlocking itself, not any of the others.

I’m actually off this day so I decide go drive around for awhile, truck stays locked, no issues. Then it begins acting temperamental. Unlocking itself in various increments of time, anywhere from 10 seconds to 15 minutes or more without issue before again unlocking itself. Watching the dummy gauge on the dash, it’s reading below 14, roughly 12V. Some time later, Dummy gauge eventually goes up to over 14V. Problem persists.

It is getting considerably worse. Dummy gauges read 14v. Now I cannot lock the vehicle at all without it unlocking itself within 5 minutes. To some people, this is just an annoying gremlin. To me though it is a much bigger deal. I live in very high traffic, NOT very good area, with a lot of creeps and weirdos regularly passing by on foot and car. Even worse, just a couple of months ago our household was a victim of auto theft when they stole my wife’s car right out of our driveway. Not being able to lock the truck is a major security issue and it’s pissing me off BIG time….

Pics of GROUNDS:

Before


After


Before


After


And a little more info on those grounds… The chassis ground on the passenger side frame rail was actually somewhat loose when I took it off !!! Not super loose but it was NOT tight as it should have been. When I went to reinstall the bolt after cleaning, it just threaded indefinitely but would not tighten. Not even a little. Great. I went into my stash of extra bolts and pulled out one that was similar. It did tighten but not as much as I wanted, it too, just spins freely. I got it basically to stay at “hand tight”.. being where our roads might as well be gravel highways I’m definitely worried about it coming aloose. How big of an issue is this ?

Was thinking the secondary battery is bad but would it really cause this kind of issue? I’ve had many a batteries go weak and/or die on me over the years and never experienced anything like this. Also I’d be gutted if I went and spend $200 on a battery for the freakin door to start unlocking itself again once I put the terminals back on…

So, battery bad? Alternator bad? something else?


I would be most gracious for any advice.

 

[PG01]

Whats TLDR?

 

[PG01]

Kidding above….

Actually sounds like your loose-ish ground is the problem and make sure your door switches are working, as in the latch on the door that go to the b and c pillars…
I would take a screwdriver and ‘close the latch’ with all the doors open and lock them then play with the latches a little especially the drivers door.

 

[Fless]

My driver's side ground threads on the body mount were stripped so I used a bolt and nut there, with the head toward the tire. I didn't want to subject the bolt end threads to what the tire tosses up.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

As stated above, you need to make that ground connection tight. Many unusual things happen with these trucks when the grounds are not clean and tight. Also, when batteries or battery cables (typically rot from the inside out) are not in good shape, unusual things happen as well.

I recommend that you get both batteries load tested on a bench at a local auto parts store to ensure that they are delivering adequate amperes as well as voltage.

 

[PPV_2018]

OK fellas, I appreciate the responses thus far.

I will:

-Find a way to fix the passenger side ground (see below)
-Play with the door latches themselves and observe their behavior*
-Remove the batteries and have them bench tested


But in the meantime I have a small update that is relevant:

Warm front came through last night. At the breakadawn it was 65*F and sunny. Go to get in the truck a little later(9AM) and… it’s still locked from last night. I wanted to put the multimeter on the batteries to test after a night of sitting but I was sort of in a rush. Drove around all morning and it (the ambient temperature) continued to warm up. 2 1/2 hours of the engine running continuously between driving and sitting in the truck idling. At this point it is exactly 70*F and sunny with light breeze- aka what is known as a “perfect day”. Door locks didn’t freak out not once. Continue through the day, I drove around for another hour and a half taking care of stuff. Drive around… Park truck... Get out... Lock doors… Come back… Doors still locked.. rinse, repeat. It should be known that the dummy gauges read about 12v on the dash even after running continuously for over 2 hours. Eventually , dummy gauge got up to 14v.

This is the warmest day we’ve had since this issue started as I noted in the OP. To me this points directly to an issue related to the cold which really leads to one general thing: the batteries or the charging system.

However, this issue is far from solved *and* I am NOT ruling out an issue with the ground not being tight enough as you guys have alluded to. So, any suggestions on how to take care of that? The problem with the passenger side chassis ground is that the factory mounting position does not allow for access from the rear unlike the driver side grounds.

I am thinking about relocating the aforementioned ground by drilling a new hole somewhere close by, where I could have access to both sides and stick a locking nut or something on it to make sure it stays real tight… good idea? Obviously it won’t be able to be too far as I don’t want the ground strap itself to have too much tension.. What would you guys do ?

*as for the door latches, what exactly am I looking for to say they (driver’s door latch particularly) are not functioning properly .. too much/not enough play compared to the other latches?

 

[PG01]

OK fellas, I appreciate the responses thus far.

I will:

-Find a way to fix the passenger side ground (see below)
-Play with the door latches themselves and observe their behavior*
-Remove the batteries and have them bench tested


But in the meantime I have a small update that is relevant:

Warm front came through last night. At the breakadawn it was 65*F and sunny. Go to get in the truck a little later(9AM) and… it’s still locked from last night. I wanted to put the multimeter on the batteries to test after a night of sitting but I was sort of in a rush. Drove around all morning and it (the ambient temperature) continued to warm up. 2 1/2 hours of the engine running continuously between driving and sitting in the truck idling. At this point it is exactly 70*F and sunny with light breeze- aka what is known as a “perfect day”. Door locks didn’t freak out not once. Continue through the day, I drove around for another hour and a half taking care of stuff. Drive around… Park truck... Get out... Lock doors… Come back… Doors still locked.. rinse, repeat. It should be known that the dummy gauges read about 12v on the dash even after running continuously for over 2 hours. Eventually , dummy gauge got up to 14v.

This is the warmest day we’ve had since this issue started as I noted in the OP. To me this points directly to an issue related to the cold which really leads to one general thing: the batteries or the charging system.

However, this issue is far from solved *and* I am NOT ruling out an issue with the ground not being tight enough as you guys have alluded to. So, any suggestions on how to take care of that? The problem with the passenger side chassis ground is that the factory mounting position does not allow for access from the rear unlike the driver side grounds.

I am thinking about relocating the aforementioned ground by drilling a new hole somewhere close by, where I could have access to both sides and stick a locking nut or something on it to make sure it stays real tight… good idea? Obviously it won’t be able to be too far as I don’t want the ground strap itself to have too much tension.. What would you guys do ?

*as for the door latches, what exactly am I looking for to say they (driver’s door latch particularly) are not functioning properly .. too much/not enough play compared to the other latches?

The latches now hold the switch for the interior lights, door locks etc instead of the little push button that used to be in the jamb. So if its not completely hitting the switch or its loose my thoughts were that maybe as you drive and it sees the door as not fully closed so its unlocking locking the doors but then again now that i think about it when you put it in drive and get up to speed 5- 10-15-20 mph do your doors lock? Do they unlock when you put it in park? Do you have a dic switch on the steering wheel or dash? If you do there are options to turn that stuff on or off …. Or maybe you shift lever is loose? This all comes back to bcm and grounds i bet… just thinking outloud …