anyone ever do a complete A/C overhaul?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

992dr

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2009
Posts
3,177
Reaction score
1,229
Location
Eastern N.C.
Since the weather has been getting warmer I tried my a/c, it doesnt work. Last year, it blew ice cold, this year, nothing.
I had my wife bring it in for a charge to a AAA service center. I called to see what was going on. It wouldnt charge. Took about 3/4 of a pound and no more. Its clogged, thats fine, seems to be a common problem. I dont want to make this a long drawn out story so, basically, they recommended a complete overhaul. One hose is connected to this hose which is not budging so now both peices need to be replaced because the fitting was twisting.
In turn this is the list of parts which will be replaced.
condenser
high side line
orifice tube
muffler hose
accumulator
Oh, the compressor may also need to be replaced. But, since the entire system needs to go, I might as well do the compressor to.

Now, typically do all the work on my Hoe BUT, I have never ventured off into the A/C department and honestly get a little intimidated by it, not sure why.
This is just aggrivating, this past year I have well over $2K into the Hoe and it just seems like it never ends.

Oh yeah, the new exhaust I put on. The cats are already rattling:shocked:
 

SunlitComet

OBS Jedi-Do Good
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Posts
16,206
Reaction score
188
Location
unknown at this time.
The only thing really small enough to clog easily it orifice. Why did you not try just replace that?
Seems like a lot of wasted money.
 
OP
OP
992dr

992dr

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2009
Posts
3,177
Reaction score
1,229
Location
Eastern N.C.
I havent had anything replaced, yet.
Does the orifice tube connect to the condensor? I think thats what he was talking about when he said something about the fitting twisting when he tried to remove the tube.
Does this sound right?

Do you know of any place that has a schematic of the entire A/C system?

Two more question = Is it common for the compressor to shed metal over time from wear and tear?
How hard is it to replace orifice?

Thanks Jon, I appreciate the help and info.
 
Last edited:

SunlitComet

OBS Jedi-Do Good
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Posts
16,206
Reaction score
188
Location
unknown at this time.
if you do not have rear a/c then it should be on the condensor. if you do have rear a/c it is on the firewall area.

Schematic:

A/C System Description
82134927

System Components



The Cycling Clutch Orifice Tube (CCOT ) refrigerant system cycles a compressor (1) on and off in order to maintain the desired cooling. This cycling also prevents evaporator freeze-up. The temperature selector on the control assembly maintains comfort in the passenger compartment comfort.

A switch that senses low side pressure as an indicator of the evaporator pressure controls the refrigeration cycle, or the on and off operation of the compressor. The cycling pressure switch is the freeze perfection device in the system. The switch also senses refrigerant pressure on the suction side of the system. This switch is located on a standard service low-side fitting. With air temperatures of 16-26°C (60-80°F) , the increased pressures within the charged air conditioning system closes the contacts of the pressure switch.

When an air conditioning mode is selected, the compressor clutch coil receives electrical energy. As the compressor reduces the evaporator pressure to approximately 175 kPa (25 psi) , the pressure switch opens, de-energizing the compressor clutch. The system moves towards equalization and the pressure reaches approximately 315 kPa (46 psi) . Then, the pressure switch contacts close, telling the PCM to recognize the clutch relay. The cycling continues and maintains the evaporator surface temperature at approximately 7°C (45°F) depending on ambient and relative humidity. Higher ambient temperature and higher humidity equal higher discharge temperature.

Some slight increases and decreases of engine speed/power may occur under certain conditions, due to the cycling. This is normal. The system cycles in order to maintain maximum cooling, without evaporator freeze-up.

Additional compressor protection results from the operating characteristics of the low-side cycling pressure system. If a massive discharge occurs in the low side of the system, or the orifice tube becomes plugged, the contacts of the pressure switch may not close due to insufficient low-side pressures. It there is a low charge, insufficient cooling accompanied by rapid compressor clutch cycling is noticeable at high air temperatures.

When the engine is OFF while the air conditioning system is operating, the refrigerant in the system flows from the high-pressure side of the expansion tube (orifice) to the low pressure side until the pressure moves towards equalization. This may be detected as a hissing sound for 30-60 seconds . The hissing is normal.

The air conditioning systems available for the vehicle are the following:

  • C60 Front Manual Controls, HVAC System
  • C69 Rear, HVAC System
Unit Repair Information
For the bench repair procedures of the Harrison HT-6 air conditioning compressor, refer to HD6/HT6 Air Conditioning Compressor Service Or Unit Repair R-134a .


Here is the removel and install for a front only system:
Expansion (Orifice) Tube Replacement - RPO C60
82133714




REMOVAL PROCEDURE

TOOLS REQUIRED
J 26549-E Orifice Tube Remove and Installer


  1. Recover the refrigerant. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging See: Refrigerant\Service and Repair
  2. Remove the grille.
  3. Disconnect the evaporator tube from the condenser (1).
  4. Remove the O-ring seal.
  5. Cap or plug the open line.
  6. Use the J 26549-E in order to remove the expansion (orifice) tube (3) from the condenser outlet pipe (2). In the event of difficulty during the removal or a restricted or plugged expansion (orifice) tube, take the following steps:
6.1. Remove as much of any impacted residue as possible. IMPORTANT : Do not overheat the pipe


6.2. Carefully apply heat with a heat gun (hair drier, epoxy drier, or similar item) approximately 7 mm (0.25 in) from the dimples on the inlet pipe. 6.3. While applying the heat, use the J 26549-E in order to grip the expansion orifice tube. 6.4. Use a turning motion along with a push-pull motion in order to loosen the impacted expansion (orifice) tube.
Remove the tube.
82133714




INSTALLATION PROCEDURE


  1. Use the J 26549-E in order to install the expansion tube (3) into the condenser outlet pipe (2).
  2. Install the new O-ring seal.
2.1. Coat the O-ring seal with 525 viscosity refrigerant oil. 2.2. Insert the short screen end of the new orifice into the evaporator tube.
  1. Connect the evaporator tube to the condenser.
  2. Install the grille.
  3. Charge the system. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging See: Refrigerant\Service and Repair
  4. Inspect the system for leaks. Refer to Leak Testing . See: Testing and Inspection
 

oldsalt

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2010
Posts
146
Reaction score
1
I have done a complete overhaul a couple of times. By complete overhaul I mean replacing what is necessary and flushing out the system. It's not a difficult job but it is nasty and messy.

I agree with Sunlit completely on this one.

The orifice tube is an insert on the bottom line of the condenser. It is color coded and should be replaced with the same color. Different colors pertain to different orifice size. Unfortunately you won't know which color to put in until you take yours out. I believe mine is yellow.

Yes, bits of metal from the compressor can and do clog the metering orifice. This is why you have to flush the condenser.

Based on what you have written here it sounds like these guys want to sell you a lot you don't need. With a new compressor, orifice, flush, and vacuum/charge you should be good to go. Accumulator if you want. I have never replaced the other lines. Whoever is going to charge your system you will need them to evacuate it before you do the work.

Holler if you want me to walk you through the procedure.
 

Sickblutahoe

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2011
Posts
111
Reaction score
0
Location
Montrose CO
Most of the time shops want you to do a complete overhaul is because of contamination in the system.
 

SunlitComet

OBS Jedi-Do Good
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Posts
16,206
Reaction score
188
Location
unknown at this time.
or to make sure there is no call back because they might be wrong. Besides the only major moving part is the compressor do that clean or replace your orifice and receiver/drier/accumulator. I am sure the switches will survive. Everything else can be flushed out.
 
OP
OP
992dr

992dr

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2009
Posts
3,177
Reaction score
1,229
Location
Eastern N.C.
Well, talked to them today and this is what happened. The orifice tube was siezed on the condesnor line which twisted the condensor fitting when they tried to remove it.
They're only replacing the orifice tube and condencor. It would have been great if the tube wasnt siezed on but, what are you going to do.
It isnt as bad as I expected, we should have my Hoe back in time for my wife to be able to take my little girl out to get spoiled for her B-Day.

Thank You guys very much for all the info.
I will be keeping this info for any future A/C work.
Thanks again
 

Forum statistics

Threads
133,031
Posts
1,878,707
Members
97,988
Latest member
kevinw

Latest posts

Top