I didn’t use any fasteners on mine. I’m running a 10” JL sub and it hits hard with zero rattles.Did not screw it down once the seats went it I could not move it might pull it later if it rattles and put foam around all the metal contact points.
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I didn’t use any fasteners on mine. I’m running a 10” JL sub and it hits hard with zero rattles.Did not screw it down once the seats went it I could not move it might pull it later if it rattles and put foam around all the metal contact points.
Any chance you have a contact for Rodneysboxes?Yesterday I installed a Rodney box in my 2011 Yukon w/ Bose Audio and a new Boss Head Unit. I did run into a snag that I am hoping someone else has overcome...
Installed:
>Boss Head Unit
>RP5-GM31 Wiring Interface
>12" Alpine Sub w/ Sound Ordinance Amp (sub amp only)
My intention is to keep all the speakers running on the factory Bose Amp. The speakers all played when I did the test fit and systems check before re-assembling the console and dashboard, however, when I buttoned everything up and reconnected the new amp for the sub I lost all my speaker sound.
Based on what I read on the Chevrolet Forum, it sounds like the amp went into limp mode or a state of confusion because I disconnected the factory Bose sub. Here's the question: should I connect the + / - wires from the Bose sub to complete the circuit in hope that the complete circuit will satisfy the Bose amp and it will continue to provide sound to the speakers? Or should I add a type of resistor in the + / - amp wires and complete the circuit that way?
Thank you in advance!
I talked to him on eBay back in february. He said he was fighting some "serious health issues and havent been able to build any boxes"His ebay account has gone dark. Not a single box for sale under Rodneysboxes any longer. I hope dude is alright. I guess I took too long to pull the trigger.
I talked to him on eBay back in february. He said he was fighting some "serious health issues and havent been able to build any boxes"