Autoride bypass

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fiatdale

fiatdale

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Don't know about the sensors but it works fine for replacing the shocks.
 

BryanDowdy

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I changed the rear shocks on my wifes '07 LTZ to standard shocks. I soldered in the 25w 3.9ohm resistors on the pigtails that plugged into the shocks. I'm still getting the "service stabilitrak" & "service traction control". Any ideas? I tried unplugging the compressor, but it still kicks on. The only other plug I see by the compressor is the large flat connector.
 

Graystone_OG

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I changed the rear shocks on my wifes '07 LTZ to standard shocks. I soldered in the 25w 3.9ohm resistors on the pigtails that plugged into the shocks. I'm still getting the "service stabilitrak" & "service traction control". Any ideas? I tried unplugging the compressor, but it still kicks on. The only other plug I see by the compressor is the large flat connector.


The message is not autoride related. You might of unplugged a connector that's near the shocks. Get underneath and try to feel for it on either side above the axle. There's one on each side, check both. Plug it back and you should be good to go.
 

Jmccormick

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Does this work for the Magnetic Ride shocks on Escalades?


I would be very interested in eliminating that crap.
 

iamdub

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My '08 LTZ rides stiffer than I believe it should. It rides almost as firm as my last vehicle which was a slammed S10 that handled like a go-kart, so I'm not being petty. I ran across an old post where someone mentioned they unplugged their shocks and the truck instantly rode way better, but they got the "Service _____" (whatever) light. Just for kicks, I tried this and immediately noticed a softer ride. But it felt like I had disconnected the sway bars and the steering felt twitchy. The truck was squirrelly and felt like I could roll it over just by sharply yanking the steering wheel. I never got any warning lights, though. I stopped, shut it off, plugged everything back in, and the ride home felt like it always had before.


So, should I have gotten a warning light or does it need to see a fault for a certain length of time first? I'm wondering if the previous or original owner had the system disabled (turned off in programming). What are the best non-magnetic shocks to have that "Cadillac" ride but still be controlled with minimal sway?
 

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