I have a 2002 Tahoe that needs a little care. 144k. 30k of that by my own hand. What does the 5.3l like? What types of oil, filters, plugs, etc.? Mainly highway miles and barely sees 65mph (although I push it every once in a while). I just want to make sure I get all the life I can out of it.
Basic Upgrades/ Tune-up tips
- Thread starter CRC_540
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clandr1
Full Access Member
Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w-30 (do not run anything other than 5W-30).
Wix or Mobil 1 oil filters.
I've never put much importance on air filters - I just buy the replaceable paper ones and replace them once a year.
Transmission filter: Wix
I go to the dealer to buy transmission fluid
NEVER have the transmission flushed at a shop. EVER.
Grease your steering components every oil change: tie rods, pitman arm, idler arm.
Wix or Mobil 1 oil filters.
I've never put much importance on air filters - I just buy the replaceable paper ones and replace them once a year.
Transmission filter: Wix
I go to the dealer to buy transmission fluid
NEVER have the transmission flushed at a shop. EVER.
Grease your steering components every oil change: tie rods, pitman arm, idler arm.
Everything you need is in this list. <------ Click that.
Pay no attention to the fact Amazon is dumb and will tell you this doesn't fit your vehicle.
Every part in fact fits ALL LS engines.
Pay attention to item quantity's.
Use:
wix 57045.
Valvoline VR1. <--- ultra high zinc content. Excellent wear resistance.
NGK Tr5 plugs, IX version if you want iridium, plugs. if your going to get a Tune, get the TR6.
Acdelco OEM rep wires.
Seafoam (in engine for a week before oil change).
CRC MAF cleaner.
Berrymans B-12 for cleaning throttle body.
lucas in fuel.
If your a Mobile one / Ac-delco guy..
Its there.
Use the Ac-delco PF63 filter if you like Ac-delco.
The others are original OEM that have been superseded by the PF63.
I would Highly recommend running the TR6 plugs. They are one step colder and will reduce if not stop completely ALL detonation.
As stated with the TR5, use the TR-6IX if you want iridium.
Tr6 is what Me and ANYone I know who gets a agressive tune by my tuner or anyone else uses.
Unless they have specific Forced induction or nitrous requirements.
Pay no attention to the fact Amazon is dumb and will tell you this doesn't fit your vehicle.
Every part in fact fits ALL LS engines.
Pay attention to item quantity's.
Use:
wix 57045.
Valvoline VR1. <--- ultra high zinc content. Excellent wear resistance.
NGK Tr5 plugs, IX version if you want iridium, plugs. if your going to get a Tune, get the TR6.
Acdelco OEM rep wires.
Seafoam (in engine for a week before oil change).
CRC MAF cleaner.
Berrymans B-12 for cleaning throttle body.
lucas in fuel.
If your a Mobile one / Ac-delco guy..
Its there.
Use the Ac-delco PF63 filter if you like Ac-delco.
The others are original OEM that have been superseded by the PF63.
I would Highly recommend running the TR6 plugs. They are one step colder and will reduce if not stop completely ALL detonation.
As stated with the TR5, use the TR-6IX if you want iridium.
Tr6 is what Me and ANYone I know who gets a agressive tune by my tuner or anyone else uses.
Unless they have specific Forced induction or nitrous requirements.
Last edited:
HoS
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Why no trans flush?
alot of ppl are scared of them.
Cause they are done wrong.
I flush every trans I own and most of my buddies.
Never had a problem that can be pinpointed back to the trans fluid change.
There is a write up here, detailing how to do it properly at the radiator.
Cause they are done wrong.
I flush every trans I own and most of my buddies.
Never had a problem that can be pinpointed back to the trans fluid change.
There is a write up here, detailing how to do it properly at the radiator.
Last edited:
HoS
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So, it isn't that you are opposed to them doing it, it is you feel that it is better done by oneself? (cost/reward ratio?)
---------- Post added at 01:21 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:15 AM ----------
Plus, I was reading on the vr1. It appears it doesn't have that much more zinc than any other conventional fluid. Zinc ruins cats, thus doesn't make it steet legal (in high concentration (which vr1 has minimal amounts as proven by its api rating)) api has strict low zinc requirements. It appears if you believe if zinc is your savour, you should look elsewhere.
---------- Post added at 01:21 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:15 AM ----------
Plus, I was reading on the vr1. It appears it doesn't have that much more zinc than any other conventional fluid. Zinc ruins cats, thus doesn't make it steet legal (in high concentration (which vr1 has minimal amounts as proven by its api rating)) api has strict low zinc requirements. It appears if you believe if zinc is your savour, you should look elsewhere.
crazyikon86
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tr55 spark plugs for stockish motors
and i like rotella 15-40 oil
and i like rotella 15-40 oil
clandr1
Full Access Member
It has the potential to flush out deposits that are sealing certain areas/valves and actually accelerate transmission wear/failure. Had it happen to a truck w/ 147k on it. Had the transmission flushed in June, and it failed in December.
Here is the preferred method:
http://www.truckmodcentral.com/forums/f63/how-flush-your-transmission-gmt800-gm-truck-4699/
One tip to the fluid change linked above.
Before removing the pan. Use the tube at the radiator to drain the 4 quarts thats in the pan.
Dont refill it.
Then remove the now empty pandas and change filter. Once pan is back on. Continue with the drain and fill method linked above.
Thats the method I use. If your not changing the filter. You wont get so much as a drop of fluid on you and it takes aprox 20 mins to finish.
Before removing the pan. Use the tube at the radiator to drain the 4 quarts thats in the pan.
Dont refill it.
Then remove the now empty pandas and change filter. Once pan is back on. Continue with the drain and fill method linked above.
Thats the method I use. If your not changing the filter. You wont get so much as a drop of fluid on you and it takes aprox 20 mins to finish.
