Belltech Drop Kit 34324 - need input asap

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sejo

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Gawd Damn Sejo your Denali looks GOOOOD. Glad I looked into this thread, I'm going to order the Belltech 2-4 on Friday

Thanks man. I'm definitely loving it.

---------- Post added at 10:27 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:22 AM ----------

You can bring it back to them and tell them to remove caster. By removing caster you will gain camber back. Also -.3 is not much to worry about but if you want to gain more camber you can do as I said above.

I do my own alignments when I can on guys trucks using my friends shop.


I took the truck back to the alignment shop this morning. The tech swapped the front tires and the pull went away, he suspected tire pull and he was right. All things seem good now in the world of straight driving vehicles. I guess that's what I get for buying a used wheel package.
 
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sejo

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2005 Denali pre-drop. Stock suspension height and CK805 wheels.
 

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sejo

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You can get a machine screw in rear cut it to 2.5 inches and put the link ends on. This should bring it down more.

Do you know what diameter those links are? At work now so don't have them in front of me to measure. I'm thinking about stopping at the hardware store and picking some machine screws up to shorten those air-ride links.

I'm also going to trim the pump stops. I'm hoping I can get the compressor to stop kicking in so soon and for so long. Hoping it'll also give me a softer ride in the rear.
 

NORCAL SS

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make sure your not sitting on the stops at more than 3 inches Iusually cut of the brackets.

10x24s is the size just get the machine screw 3 inches long and cut accordingly
 

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Hot damn that looks good. I didn't think our Denalis' could look any better with the CK805's but those 375's are on point!! The drop looks killer too. Makes me really want to get some 22's in spring. Very nice job. Looks :boobs:
 
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sejo

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Thanks for all the positive comments amigos.

Now that I have the look that I wanted for the truck I need to get this thing riding right. The belltech drop alone doesn't cut it. The rear rides like a honda civic with a fart can and cut springs.

I noticed the bottoming out after the 1st test drive but it was only over big bumps and I hadn't cut the bumpstops down or made the air ride links shorter yet. After the adjustment, I went on a road trip from LA to SC and it bottomed out on bridge transition dips on the interstate going 70+ mph. Another note to make is that at highway speeds I get a vibration from the drivetrain, chatting with others we've come to the conclusion that the pinion angle at a 4" drop could be the culprit.

So, I'm pretty confident that my air ride shocks are toast. I had the truck loaded up with 8 people tonight and the thing was bottoming out like crazy on every little bump on a smooth FL road. I stopped for gas and took a look at the stance and the rear was dropping with the load. I can't figure out why the air ride wouldn't level out the truck unless the shocks where just toast. I can hear the bump kick on and then kick off, but no change in rid height with the rear still drooping.

For the drivetrain vibration, I chatted with Norcal SS and he's sending me the DJM RK2000 kit that is supposed to correct the drivetrain and suspension geometry for a 3"-4" drop on our trucks. Hoping that's the fix there.

For the bottoming out issue, I'm willing to entertain the idea of doing the "Free Travel Mod'. I'd like to hear from others with a 3"-4" drop who have done this mod if they've experienced any bottoming out...?

As for the air ride, even with the shock extenders in the rear, does the 4" drop put to much strain/"pressure" on the stock height/"length" of the air ride shocks? I'm thinking I murdered those things, I'm not sure if they were toast before the drop. I assume that if there were leaking that the air compressor would just constantly run, particularly if the truck were under heavy load in the rear. I'll buy new air ride shocks if I can determine if the ones on there now are really shot and whether or not I'd kill the new ones with the drop. I'd probably do new shocks all around from Arnott Industries.

Anyone have any suggestions or info here?
 

NORCAL SS

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Thanks for all the positive comments amigos.

Now that I have the look that I wanted for the truck I need to get this thing riding right. The belltech drop alone doesn't cut it. The rear rides like a honda civic with a fart can and cut springs.

I noticed the bottoming out after the 1st test drive but it was only over big bumps and I hadn't cut the bumpstops down or made the air ride links shorter yet. After the adjustment, I went on a road trip from LA to SC and it bottomed out on bridge transition dips on the interstate going 70+ mph. Another note to make is that at highway speeds I get a vibration from the drivetrain, chatting with others we've come to the conclusion that the pinion angle at a 4" drop could be the culprit.

So, I'm pretty confident that my air ride shocks are toast. I had the truck loaded up with 8 people tonight and the thing was bottoming out like crazy on every little bump on a smooth FL road. I stopped for gas and took a look at the stance and the rear was dropping with the load. I can't figure out why the air ride wouldn't level out the truck unless the shocks where just toast. I can hear the bump kick on and then kick off, but no change in rid height with the rear still drooping.

For the drivetrain vibration, I chatted with Norcal SS and he's sending me the DJM RK2000 kit that is supposed to correct the drivetrain and suspension geometry for a 3"-4" drop on our trucks. Hoping that's the fix there.

For the bottoming out issue, I'm willing to entertain the idea of doing the "Free Travel Mod'. I'd like to hear from others with a 3"-4" drop who have done this mod if they've experienced any bottoming out...?

As for the air ride, even with the shock extenders in the rear, does the 4" drop put to much strain/"pressure" on the stock height/"length" of the air ride shocks? I'm thinking I murdered those things, I'm not sure if they were toast before the drop. I assume that if there were leaking that the air compressor would just constantly run, particularly if the truck were under heavy load in the rear. I'll buy new air ride shocks if I can determine if the ones on there now are really shot and whether or not I'd kill the new ones with the drop. I'd probably do new shocks all around from Arnott Industries.

Anyone have any suggestions or info here?


Lets start with the rear I would cut off the bumpstop brackets like we spoke about before you go buying any new rear autoride shocks.

As for the rear it should air up fine. My autoride truck with 5 people in it and towing my ctsv holds it up no problem.

3rd what you can do to test the autoride shocks out is you can make the rods longer ie you can go to a hardware store and get some 10-24 bar stock or a 10-24 4 inch long machine screw. Cut off the head and set it up so the autoride links are 3.5 inches from center to center. That should lift up the truck in rear and if the truck doesn't move then the shocks are not airing up.


First things first cut off the rear bumpstop bracket and that should cure the bottoming out issue. Even with the short belltech bumpstops if the truck is loaded in rear and comes down 1 more inch all you will do is bottom out the rear end. Free travel mod will cure that.

the kit i send you will include new pancake bumpstops so you can attach that to the frame ie drill and tap where the truck would bottom out or you can attach on the hole on top of the axle. If you want you can also upgrade to grade 8 bolts as I did on mine also you will replace the oem top bolts with the 1/2 inch grade 8 for a better fit. also remember to torque the rear endlinks while truck is on the floor with full weight on them to about 30 ft/lbs
 
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Matt06Yukon

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Hells ya those look awesome on there. I kinda figured they would, they look soooo good on NNBS I had a feeling they'd look kick ass on a NBS. Nicely done man, 375's are just excellent looking wheels. Looks 1000x's better than black wheels too imo....
 

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