Billet T-connectors for heater cores

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Z28TWITCH

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And that is great for those without rear heat or those that don't care to retain rear heat.

The problem is that with rear heat you need the T-connectors... if you just slip the hose over the front heater core nipples them you are bypassing the rear heater core.
News to me man. Somebody will buy em.
 
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kbuskill

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Paul said he has 4 pre-orders so far.

He also said that if he gets more pre-orders it will speed up the process and if not then the next time their shop gets slow he will try to get some of these made up.

I told him that if he builds it, they will come... lol

Seriously though, I told him having pics of an actual part would probably help to attract more interest.
 

SnowDrifter

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My 2 cents on this, and I'm wondering if other folks are thinking the same way. Might be why there's not much interest

- The pics posted seem to necessitate cutting and splicing hoses. While not a big deal, it's a barrier to install and not a direct swap-over. And with rear heat, the hardlines plug directly into the T fitting. You'd need to do some cutting, bending, and flaring to get the stuff to line up appropriately

- While the plastic connections are known to fail, it's not a regular occurrence that I think would necessitate re working the system. They break once every 10-15 years, and even then, typically only when you're doing work on the engine that involves fussing with the heater core hoses in the first place. I worked in a shop for 4 years and only saw a T failure during that time once. Leads me to believe it's a little more rare of an occurrence than you might think from reading forums. After all, no one regularly posts about their T fittings being fine

- Using the two points above, you're talking a ~3x price increase over the stock ones, plus extra on top of that for lengths of hoses, clamps, plus shipping. It's a difficult cost-value sell here.


Don't get me wrong I love the custom products. But I think as a buyer it's tough to swallow the cost / benefit of these when, if you were looking at preventative maintenance, it's easier and cheaper to toss another OE fitting in that'll last 10+ years and realistically, outlive the remaining lifespan of the vehicle.
 
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kbuskill

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My 2 cents on this, and I'm wondering if other folks are thinking the same way. Might be why there's not much interest

- The pics posted seem to necessitate cutting and splicing hoses. While not a big deal, it's a barrier to install and not a direct swap-over. And with rear heat, the hardlines plug directly into the T fitting. You'd need to do some cutting, bending, and flaring to get the stuff to line up appropriately

- While the plastic connections are known to fail, it's not a regular occurrence that I think would necessitate re working the system. They break once every 10-15 years, and even then, typically only when you're doing work on the engine that involves fussing with the heater core hoses in the first place. I worked in a shop for 4 years and only saw a T failure during that time once. Leads me to believe it's a little more rare of an occurrence than you might think from reading forums. After all, no one regularly posts about their T fittings being fine

- Using the two points above, you're talking a ~3x price increase over the stock ones, plus extra on top of that for lengths of hoses, clamps, plus shipping. It's a difficult cost-value sell here.


Don't get me wrong I love the custom products. But I think as a buyer it's tough to swallow the cost / benefit of these when, if you were looking at preventative maintenance, it's easier and cheaper to toss another OE fitting in that'll last 10+ years and realistically, outlive the remaining lifespan of the vehicle.


Just for the record... Gruven will be shipping new pieces of silicone hose and the clamps that are required to install these with the new T connectors. There should be no need to cut, bend, flare or otherwise mess with the rear lines. Just slip the hose over the existing rib in the metal line and clamp it. The cooling system only operates at about 15 psi so it not real high pressure.
 

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