You have to adjust them after the drums are on.
Keep clicking the star wheel until the drum/wheel starts to drag.
The adjustment hole is at the 6 oclock position on the backing plate.
Brakes @#$% 1999 Tahoe (obs)
- Thread starter L8RH8R
- Start date
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You have to adjust them after the drums are on.
Keep clicking the star wheel until the drum/wheel starts to drag.
The adjustment hole is at the 6 oclock position on the backing plate.
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same here its always been like that for me an for some reason my drums will last about 30k but my front pads i replace every 20k or so its sucks
gregsb
Member
Just as an FYI.
On my 96 2 door there is not access in the dust shield/backing plate and the adjuster is located just under the wheel cylinder so you can only adjust them by taking the drum off.
I have never seen a setup like it before myself. It seems to make more sense to have the adjuster at the bottom so as it adjusts out it pushes the top of the shoes against the wheel cylinder. This system forces the wheel cylinder to travel out more to take up the slack as the adjuster expands
On my 96 2 door there is not access in the dust shield/backing plate and the adjuster is located just under the wheel cylinder so you can only adjust them by taking the drum off.
I have never seen a setup like it before myself. It seems to make more sense to have the adjuster at the bottom so as it adjusts out it pushes the top of the shoes against the wheel cylinder. This system forces the wheel cylinder to travel out more to take up the slack as the adjuster expands
This is the exact same set up I have. I will check again for the access on the backing plate. To answer a few questions, I have checked the lines and master cylinder and there are no leaks. I do appreciate everyones input/replies. I'm always open to suggestions.
how old are your brake lines? rubber brake lines are well known for loosing their firmness over time.
If they're OEM, change them with new rubber lines (you don't need stainless steel, they're just for looks on these rigs - but they definitely look cool)
If you have no leaks, drums are tight in the rear and your brakes lines are in good shape and you're STILL having problems, I would take it to the dealer for a diagnosis.
If they're OEM, change them with new rubber lines (you don't need stainless steel, they're just for looks on these rigs - but they definitely look cool)
If you have no leaks, drums are tight in the rear and your brakes lines are in good shape and you're STILL having problems, I would take it to the dealer for a diagnosis.
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
If someone has to take there brake system to the dealer to fix it it is probably because that got air trapped in the ABS hydraulic modulator that the dealer can actuator bleed out. Look hard for the access holes they are there but you will have to finish the punch out.
96ProCompTahoe
Full Access Member
looked and looked on my rear drums as well. no pre punched holes or half punched ones that i could find on either side. read that they are supposed to be self adjusting?
Gzes
the drifting 2dr
I havnt gotten to the brakes yet since I dont drive it until I get the ac fixed. Anyone find out what the problem could be?
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
Oh, Maybe the 10" drums don't have the partial punch on them. Maybe they are on 11" drums only. They are self adjusting but I know mine were screwed when I got the truck. Because I did not know about about the partial punch out deal the only way to get them off was to pry off the drums my left brake was so grooved it ripped off everything all at once with the exception of the parking brake lever still hanging on the cable. That was fun.
I checked and there is not a knock out. On the back plate between the wheel cylinder and the axle tube is approximatley 1/8" but no provision for a knock out. It was worth a look. Mine are the 11" too. I'm gonna try braking in reverse and see if that helps. If not, the master cylinder is next. Then the dealership for a bleed of the ABS. Again, thanks for all the input.
