iamdub
Full Access Member
I can't say I've ever noticed anything like this. Are you sure that's the case for a 96?
Now that you mention it, I'm second-guessing myself on this particular vintage.
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
I can't say I've ever noticed anything like this. Are you sure that's the case for a 96?
Thanks for the reply/advice. I don't push the pedal all the way to the floor any more. I killed at least one MC doing that the last time I went through this. Probably about 1/2 way or so.Are you going all the way to the floor with the pedal? Try half strokes for one complete bleed sequence. I know it sounds impossible but try it and see, In fact since you feel the rears are the issue just do those and leave the fronts alone. ill bet the pedal firms up instantly. This is a big hail mary bet!
There's probably a cheaper way but I came across this and thought I'd put it hereLastly, there are a few threads about using newer M/C with a screw cap in this vintage. I don't recommend this UNLESS you find a stepped bore M/C the same size you have. Hint- Look at repair kit Diameters.
Put a vacuumn pump on it and check leakdown time. Or the brakeclean spray trick while idleing, though I don't recommend that. If your brakes are soft you have AIR in the master or elsewhere.
Maybe its technique, pumping brakes too fast while bleeding maybe? I know firsthand about brake part issues with these- hoping you aren't caught in 5 bad ina row- I buy brake fluid by the gallon.
Again- are the rears adjusted tight? that brings pedal up 3/4-1 inch. Constant battle with the self adjusters about once a month to bring them back up. Rear brakes still last 2 years.