Brief exhaust smoke smoke in morning when starting engine

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

BeemerBiker

TYF Newbie
Joined
Jul 4, 2017
Posts
2
Reaction score
0
Location
San Antonio, Texas
2011 Yukon slt. Took to dealer and also mentioned I had to add oil at every oil change. I assumed the problem was the valve seals leaking. Mechanic wrote quote "if the gdi , tune up , injection service / intake cleaning , oil leak and Mobil 1 oil change dont stop the oil consumption , the engine will need to be replaced " I asked them to recheck and the senior technician said a $350 tune-up would fix the problem but a more aggressive $900 tune-up would be better. Picture taken by mechanic shows sparkplug with oil and stated the plug was loose. This whole analysis seems suspicious.

unaccountably, cannot upload picture as system thinks it is spam
 
Last edited:

iamdub

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2016
Posts
20,821
Reaction score
44,886
Location
Li'l Weezyana
I have to add oil at every oil change as well- six quarts. It's how I complete the oil change.





Seriously, though- How many miles are on this rig? How low is the oil? What kind of oil do you use? How many miles do you go between changes?


First off, do you know the difference between smoke and steam? Pretty much all engines steam off condensation when they're first started. More so when the weather is cooler.

If it is smoke, like burning oil kind of smoke, then it's likely worn valve seals.


On the other hand:
These things normally consume a little oil, mostly due to the AFM activating and deactivating. The pressure release valve for the AFM is a pop-off style, located in the oil pan. When AFM activates, the pressurized oil is directed away from the lifters and into the oil pan, through that valve. When the valve pops open (at around 55ish psi), the oil sprays from it. Most of the oil just goes into the sump, but, since it's a spray (mist), some gets carried up into the PCV stream, into the driver's side cylinder head. The airflow of the PCV system carries the oily mist through the port in the rocker cover, through the PCV hose, and into the top of the intake manifold. Most of it is sucked into the cylinders (mostly the rearmost cylinders) and burned off, as the PCV is designed to do. But there is liquid oil that settles and collects as a puddle in the back of the manifold.

To combat the oil consumption from this, GM came up with a shield to go over the pressure release valve so the oil doesn't spray into a mist. They also redesigned the baffle in the driver's side rocker cover to relocate the PCV intake hole away from the direct stream of oil squirting/splashing up from the pushrod and rocker.

Yours, being a 2011, should have the updated rocker cover. I think the shield was only installed if consumption was a problem.

Since the PCV system moves so much oil (inherent to the LS engine, regardless if AFM-equipped or not), it is widely known that they should have a catch can installed in the PCV tract to reduce the amount of oil entering the intake manifold and combustion chambers. In more extreme cases, the rearmost cylinders get so much oil in them that the combustion chambers build up carbon deposits. These deposits also build up on the rings and they can stick. This accelerates the wear of the rings and cylinder walls, leading to lost compression (weaker cylinder(s)) and more blow-by. The blow-by leads to more oil vapor in the crankcase, which increases the amount of oil in the PCV system... and the vicious cycle continues and feeds itself.

Running cheap oil for too long between changes contributes to oil loss. Cheaper oil, particularly conventional oil, begins to break down and burn off if ran for too long.

My suggestions:

1) Use quality oil, preferably synthetic

2) Don't base your changes by the Oil Life Monitor, stick to a more regular schedule (I like 5K intervals)

3) Disable AFM either with a plug-in module or a custom tune

4) Install a catch can
 

Derick

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2018
Posts
631
Reaction score
692
Location
Indy Suburbs
Yeah whoever at Chevy set the oil life meter timing/mileage got a fat promotion. 'hey guys... Hur Hur Hur...... Lets make them get a new motor at 100k by following our suggested maintenance!'

I usually go 50% of the oil life meter.
 

iamdub

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2016
Posts
20,821
Reaction score
44,886
Location
Li'l Weezyana
Yeah whoever at Chevy set the oil life meter timing/mileage got a fat promotion. 'hey guys... Hur Hur Hur...... Lets make them get a new motor at 100k by following our suggested maintenance!'

I usually go 50% of the oil life meter.

I'm sure it's an EPA thing- reduced unnecessary oil changes, etc. IIRC, GM issued an update for the OLM to alter it's programming to be a little more realistic. I don't know when this occurred. Still, I go by the appearance of the oil since it being dirty is the point of changing it. I run full synthetic so it's not a problem with it breaking down, just getting dirty. For me, it starts to turn too dark for my liking (although I lean more to the cautious side) around 4,000-5,000 miles. I adhere to a 5K-mile schedule since it's a convenient mileage to rotate the tires since I already have it in the air. It's also easy to remember the mileage intervals on the odometer- 145K, 150K, 155K, etc. I think my OLM is usually in the 50s percentage when I change it.

@BeemerBiker, I didn't mean to sound insulting with questioning if you knew the difference between smoke and steam. So many people call anything that puffs out the tailpipe and floats in the air "smoke", and that can throw off a diagnosis.
 

donjetman

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2018
Posts
1,415
Reaction score
2,481
2011 Yukon slt. Took to dealer and also mentioned I had to add oil at every oil change. I assumed the problem was the valve seals leaking. Mechanic wrote quote "if the gdi , tune up , injection service / intake cleaning , oil leak and Mobil 1 oil change dont stop the oil consumption , the engine will need to be replaced " I asked them to recheck and the senior technician said a $350 tune-up would fix the problem but a more aggressive $900 tune-up would be better. Picture taken by mechanic shows sparkplug with oil and stated the plug was loose. This whole analysis seems suspicious.

Here is a Technical Service Bulletin on oil consumption you may be interested in?

https://f01.justanswer.com/ebrock63/cec66346-04c1-48e0-98a6-74c35af2c84e_2014+Engine+-+Oil+Consumption,+MIL+ON,+Engine+Runs+Rough.pdf

I did this TSB myself along with the new improved driver side valve cover, deflector, and rear main seal and 2 yrs and 30K miles later it doesn't consume any oil. It has 160k on it now.
 

Cbncanada

Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2020
Posts
52
Reaction score
23
If it is a little oil smoke on startup try the following. I did and it works. Add a can of Sea Foam liquid to your oil and run it for about 2000 km. Change the oil. Add another can of Sea Foam after 800 km on the new oil. Run it until 5000km. Change the oil. Add a can of it 1000 km after every oil change. Cold start smoke is gone. Much cheaper than an engine change. I now have 320,000 km on the engine and is now running fine. That stuff cleans out the old oil deposits and seems to rejuvenate many of the seals in the engine.
 

Aeterna

Member
Joined
May 30, 2019
Posts
61
Reaction score
41
Do the 2011’s have the updated driver side valve cover with the improved pcv valve and baffles?

my 2007 consumed loads of oil, and puffed on startup. After changing out the valve cover, i have not lost a drop.
 

iamdub

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2016
Posts
20,821
Reaction score
44,886
Location
Li'l Weezyana
Do the 2011’s have the updated driver side valve cover with the improved pcv valve and baffles?

my 2007 consumed loads of oil, and puffed on startup. After changing out the valve cover, i have not lost a drop.

I believe they started putting them on the 2010+.
 

1BADI5

Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2014
Posts
1,833
Reaction score
2,986
Location
DMV
If it is a little oil smoke on startup try the following. I did and it works. Add a can of Sea Foam liquid to your oil and run it for about 2000 km. Change the oil. Add another can of Sea Foam after 800 km on the new oil. Run it until 5000km. Change the oil. Add a can of it 1000 km after every oil change. Cold start smoke is gone. Much cheaper than an engine change. I now have 320,000 km on the engine and is now running fine. That stuff cleans out the old oil deposits and seems to rejuvenate many of the seals in the engine.

Ahhhh, I would highly discourage this procedure.

Adding a whole can of Seafoam to your oil with thin the oil out to much and could cause damage to the rod, main and cam bearings.

The instructions recommend only 1 fluid oz per quart of engine oil.......therefore, do not exceed 6oz.

Again, its your truck and your engine, so take everything with a grain of salt.
 

Cbncanada

Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2020
Posts
52
Reaction score
23
I have been a whole can as described for years on all my vehicles following the advice from my mechanic and it works just fine with no damage to anything. In fact you can put a can of that stuff into your fuel tank once in a while and it will help there too. It does not thin out the oil too much but did solve the problem and quieted down the engine as well.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
130,197
Posts
1,828,013
Members
93,709
Latest member
Bripage

Latest posts

Top