beav626
Pretty Girls in your city for night
I was hoping for at least 15RWHP with less friction on the calipers
Brkaes feel Soft
- Thread starter beav626
- Start date
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I was hoping for at least 15RWHP with less friction on the calipers
scottg918514
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Agree on the flush and bleed. These are 2 different procedures, both of which can be done by yourself. Ideally, you should flush your brake fluid every 30K. I used this product: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JFN9WW
to flush brakes. Works great and I use it to extract diff fluids, oil from my boat engines, tranny fluid (if I don't want to change out gasket/filter), etc. It comes with a bleeder (really a flusher) connector. Of course, you need to already have a compressor. I also use the one-man bleeder kit after a flush. This is the small bottle and hanger.
So, basic procedure is:
1. Get the big bottle of brake fluid
2. put rags/towels over engine parts and fenders
3. Extract as much old fluid from master cylinder as you can, but don't let lever drop below bottom of reservoir. You can siphon with a turkey baster, or I use the mini-vac listed above.
4. Top off with clean new fluid.
5. Start furthest away from mc, and loosen bleeder valve at brake caliper and then tighten back slightly (leave wrench on valve).
6. Attached bleeder/flusher, start pump and open valve
7. Close line when you see new, clean fluid in extraction line.
8. Continue around vechile, working closer to mc, Keep MC topped-off with new fluid.
9. Top-off mc and close. Now, go back to each brake in the same order. Attach one-man bleeder, put it above, valve, the higher the better, pump brake pedal a few times and check line, if no bubbles, close valve and move on to next brake.
10. When your not seeing any bubbles, your done bleeding. Top-off mc and clean-up.
11. If you've got all the wheels off, rotate.
to flush brakes. Works great and I use it to extract diff fluids, oil from my boat engines, tranny fluid (if I don't want to change out gasket/filter), etc. It comes with a bleeder (really a flusher) connector. Of course, you need to already have a compressor. I also use the one-man bleeder kit after a flush. This is the small bottle and hanger.
So, basic procedure is:
1. Get the big bottle of brake fluid
2. put rags/towels over engine parts and fenders
3. Extract as much old fluid from master cylinder as you can, but don't let lever drop below bottom of reservoir. You can siphon with a turkey baster, or I use the mini-vac listed above.
4. Top off with clean new fluid.
5. Start furthest away from mc, and loosen bleeder valve at brake caliper and then tighten back slightly (leave wrench on valve).
6. Attached bleeder/flusher, start pump and open valve
7. Close line when you see new, clean fluid in extraction line.
8. Continue around vechile, working closer to mc, Keep MC topped-off with new fluid.
9. Top-off mc and close. Now, go back to each brake in the same order. Attach one-man bleeder, put it above, valve, the higher the better, pump brake pedal a few times and check line, if no bubbles, close valve and move on to next brake.
10. When your not seeing any bubbles, your done bleeding. Top-off mc and clean-up.
11. If you've got all the wheels off, rotate.
You shuld also grease the pins. I just did all mine, finally, n huge difference! Ive also done complete fluid flush n installed synthetic, have steel braided lines, n cross/slotted rotors which all greatly improved my brakes.. But GREASE your slide rods, will greatly improve brake response. IMO
