Broken exhaust manifold bolt, in head

[Scottydoggs]

theres back outs and reverse drills, use on a right angle drill working though the wheel well, theres no pressure on the threads being the head is gone, these bolts tend to come out with little effort. seen this go down on yt as well.

its best to remove the exhaust manifold first, then work on removal.

im sure making your own bolt down clamp could also work, just need to copy the one for the newer years. front pass should be the same as the driver side rear. how i see them being sold. used in either or spot for this one, the other two for an different one. point being you should be able to mock up and fab the clamp using the front dimensions. a lot more room to work in.

 

[GMMasterTech]

Stick welding rod to broken bolt then slide a washer then nut down the welding rod. With another rod or even better a mig welder weld inside the nut.
Back the broken out with a wrench. Takes a little finesse but works well. Washer protects the head.

 

[Zoltarp]

I used something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10529A...ocphy=9008276&hvtargid=pla-569776736873&psc=1

 

[drakon543]

https://kralautoparts.com/product/exhaust-manifold-bolt-repair-kit-5-7p
it was mentioned earlier in this thread. its not quite as common as the 5.3 to break one but here is one company that does. i think they have one for driver and passenger side. the one k linked is for the passenger side its the first one that came up on my search.

 

[RET423]

If the bolt is broken flush with the manifold you can remove the manifold and grab it with vise grips, they always break flush with the head on my stuff so a left hand bit with an easy out is my only option; if that is your case then you might have to raise the motor up a bit to get good enough access.

If you remove the manifold replace all of the bolts

 

[JonnyTahoe]

yeah i cant put anything on it, its flush with the head,

Jonnytahoe, ive heard of these but only found ones for LS engines... ive got a 96 2dr tahoe.. would love to find that fix, i have pacesetter headers now on the truck.

The clamps are for the LS engines probably have to remove the head.

 

[th3 shifty]

Just wanted to update this, after getting a good right angle drill, and cobalt drill bits, I got the bolt drilled, got a strong easy out in it, and the damn thing broken clean off in the bolt, tried to get that out by drilling, no luck.

Shot a Hail Mary email to Kralautoparts in Minnesota. They list exhaust clamps for numerous new vehicles, LS namely. They replied within 1day to contact Jim,

Called him today, he said they can make one for the 1996 350 vortec driver rear, “no problem.” They make everything in-house, and it will ship out today.

So if anyone runs into this issue, call or email them, website is www.kralautoparts.com

Super friendly and helpful guys

 

[Rocket Man]

Just wanted to update this, after getting a good right angle drill, and cobalt drill bits, I got the bolt drilled, got a strong easy out in it, and the damn thing broken clean off in the bolt, tried to get that out by drilling, no luck.

Shot a Hail Mary email to Kralautoparts in Minnesota. They list exhaust clamps for numerous new vehicles, LS namely. They replied within 1day to contact Jim,

Called him today, he said they can make one for the 1996 350 vortec driver rear, “no problem.” They make everything in-house, and it will ship out today.

So if anyone runs into this issue, call or email them, website is www.kralautoparts.com

Super friendly and helpful guys

That’s cool as hell.

 

[Big Mama]

Are they on the vendor list or would they’d consider it. That’s awesome

 

[Colorado Yeti]

Treat it very, very patiently. Squirt it with PB blaster every day for about 2-3 weeks. Drill out the center of the bolt and insert and easy-out bit. Get a MAP or acetylene torch and heat the head around the bolt. (Don;t heat the bolt itself.) Twist the easy out very gently with a ratchet until it comes loose. If it doesn't come loose, repeat every 2-3 weeks per above.