Camaro SS, track trips, build pics etc.
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- Start date
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adventurenali92
Full Access Member
They candy apple red is stunning! It's the perfect color on a muscle car! Awesome thread man! And nice looking Denali 
by the way! Haha.
by the way! Haha.Hit up Test And Tune Friday night. The truck actually towed decently with the lowering kit (trailer properly loaded of course), and the new found power (headers, tune, awd delete) was really noticeable.
Random staging lane pics.
At the end of the day it cut a best (random passes) 60ft of 1.45, best 1/8 mile of 6.9x @ 97mph, and quarter 10.99 @ 121. The mph on the 1/4 tells me its not pulling like it should on the backend, it definitely needs more tuning, which I plan to do soon.
And at the end of the night I made it through a Whataburger drive through and only scuffed the curbed and grazed a bush.
Random staging lane pics.
At the end of the day it cut a best (random passes) 60ft of 1.45, best 1/8 mile of 6.9x @ 97mph, and quarter 10.99 @ 121. The mph on the 1/4 tells me its not pulling like it should on the backend, it definitely needs more tuning, which I plan to do soon.
And at the end of the night I made it through a Whataburger drive through and only scuffed the curbed and grazed a bush.
Ordered a set of MWC aluminum lower arms and matching panhard to replace the poly bushing stuff i had on the car before. More on that later, plus she is still trimming down....
Cant wait to get these babies installed and maybe make another trip to the scales. I think the front is the 3/16ths and the rear is 1/4 with the dark tint.
Couple of teaser pics, I plan on fully detailing the install, with all the install info, weights, for anyone wanting to try the install themselves. So far I can tell you the rear glass is difficult to remove, and the optic armor fits soooo nice.
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Cant wait to get these babies installed and maybe make another trip to the scales. I think the front is the 3/16ths and the rear is 1/4 with the dark tint.
Couple of teaser pics, I plan on fully detailing the install, with all the install info, weights, for anyone wanting to try the install themselves. So far I can tell you the rear glass is difficult to remove, and the optic armor fits soooo nice.
So on my quest to get under the 3k lbs mark I placed an order through Midwest Chassis for 1/4" front clear, and 3/16th rear in dark tint. My original plan was to pay someone to do this but ended up changing my mind and deciding to tackle it on my own. I have zero glass experience of this kind, so I just had to wing it. I'm gonna give you all the tips that I learned along the way in case you want to try it yourself one day.
Here is when they arrived. The box was kinda beat up....I'm actually surprised they weren't damaged somehow.
Made a trip to harbor freight to pick up some windshield specific tools:
This is the urethane glue I chose. No particular reason, I purchased it on ebay for about $10 per tube. You'll need about 2 per window.
You may want to hire someone to remove the glass, I chose to give it a whirl. I started on the back first. Its tougher then the Youtube videos make it out, especially without scratching the car. You need to remove the perimeter molding first thing and the inside panels then use your various tools to separate the glass from the car. I finally decided **** this.
One of the things that makes the rear glass a real pain is in the corners there is two separate lines of urethane, which makes getting through that part super difficult to a beginning installer. You can see here, where the glass makes the curve at the bottom is a thick bead, then toward the upper edge there is another thin line.
This is the edge of the fiberglass lip at the rear (basically right in front of the spoiler). You can see the wire tool was actually chipping away at the fiberglass. Grrrrrr
This was the tool I selected to remove the urethane from the car to prep for install. I sharpened it first. Also, new urethane sticks to old urethane so there is no reason to remove every single bit. The most important thing is the surface is smooth and there is no excess old urethane left.
Here is a better picture where you can see the double spread line that traces the corners of the glass.
Here's the surface, prepped, sanded, and cleaned. I went over the entire flange with maybe 220 grit just so I knew it had some bite. The fiberglass seemed awfully slick and I was nervous about the urethane bonding.
Make sure you test fit first before you commit to the final install. I was also curious about whether it needed the stock molding back on it (it is no longer available for purchase). It looked fine with nothing, so that's what I ended up with.
These are velcro spacers x2 at the top of the window, I reinstalled them.
Lay your beads down following the factory lines.
I dropped the rear in by myself. Bottom is basically resting on the car with no room for molding, the top leading edge would be your preference. I think I'm going to leave it bare.
Here is when they arrived. The box was kinda beat up....I'm actually surprised they weren't damaged somehow.
Made a trip to harbor freight to pick up some windshield specific tools:
This is the urethane glue I chose. No particular reason, I purchased it on ebay for about $10 per tube. You'll need about 2 per window.
You may want to hire someone to remove the glass, I chose to give it a whirl. I started on the back first. Its tougher then the Youtube videos make it out, especially without scratching the car. You need to remove the perimeter molding first thing and the inside panels then use your various tools to separate the glass from the car. I finally decided **** this.
One of the things that makes the rear glass a real pain is in the corners there is two separate lines of urethane, which makes getting through that part super difficult to a beginning installer. You can see here, where the glass makes the curve at the bottom is a thick bead, then toward the upper edge there is another thin line.
This is the edge of the fiberglass lip at the rear (basically right in front of the spoiler). You can see the wire tool was actually chipping away at the fiberglass. Grrrrrr
This was the tool I selected to remove the urethane from the car to prep for install. I sharpened it first. Also, new urethane sticks to old urethane so there is no reason to remove every single bit. The most important thing is the surface is smooth and there is no excess old urethane left.
Here is a better picture where you can see the double spread line that traces the corners of the glass.
Here's the surface, prepped, sanded, and cleaned. I went over the entire flange with maybe 220 grit just so I knew it had some bite. The fiberglass seemed awfully slick and I was nervous about the urethane bonding.
Make sure you test fit first before you commit to the final install. I was also curious about whether it needed the stock molding back on it (it is no longer available for purchase). It looked fine with nothing, so that's what I ended up with.
These are velcro spacers x2 at the top of the window, I reinstalled them.
Lay your beads down following the factory lines.
I dropped the rear in by myself. Bottom is basically resting on the car with no room for molding, the top leading edge would be your preference. I think I'm going to leave it bare.
For the front, remove the molding that runs along both sides and the top.
Remove the cowl cover. Im also deleting the windshield wipers.
Remove the glass......
Whoops!
Same as the rear, nothing tricky up front. Prep and clean.
Make sure you test fit before you commit.
Find a work station, clean your stock molding, and reglue it to the lexan, tape it, and allow the glue to dry. I used black silicone. It is available new for about $75 if you want to replace it.
Run your beads just like the back, and drop in place, remember to have a friend help, and tape up top to keep it from sliding down while it cures.
A couple hours later it looks like stock.
The windows weighed roughly 10lbs rear, and probably 17/18 for the front. They are supposed to save about 50/55lbs for the pair. My car should weigh, after the wiper delete, somewhere around 2970 or so. Overall they look really nice and fit really well. Im pleased with them.
Remove the cowl cover. Im also deleting the windshield wipers.
Remove the glass......
Whoops!
Same as the rear, nothing tricky up front. Prep and clean.
Make sure you test fit before you commit.
Find a work station, clean your stock molding, and reglue it to the lexan, tape it, and allow the glue to dry. I used black silicone. It is available new for about $75 if you want to replace it.
Run your beads just like the back, and drop in place, remember to have a friend help, and tape up top to keep it from sliding down while it cures.
A couple hours later it looks like stock.
The windows weighed roughly 10lbs rear, and probably 17/18 for the front. They are supposed to save about 50/55lbs for the pair. My car should weigh, after the wiper delete, somewhere around 2970 or so. Overall they look really nice and fit really well. Im pleased with them.
The rear ended up wanting to lift along the lower lip, the adhesion wasnt great for whatever reason. It either didnt stick to the car, didnt stick to the lexan, or I didnt use enough urethane. At any rate, I had to improvise to ensure it didnt cause damage later down the road.
I also trimmed the cowl, mostly for ease of intake removal, and added a couple screws in the front glass just for good measure. You can see I left enough material for the stock plastic to be reinstalled and look pretty much as it came from the factory. I had to trim the cowl in multiple pieces (about 10) because I did it while the intake was still installed. It wasn't much fun.
I also trimmed the cowl, mostly for ease of intake removal, and added a couple screws in the front glass just for good measure. You can see I left enough material for the stock plastic to be reinstalled and look pretty much as it came from the factory. I had to trim the cowl in multiple pieces (about 10) because I did it while the intake was still installed. It wasn't much fun.
iamdub
Full Access Member
I had no idea the stock glass was that heavy, but I've only messed with side glasses on small trucks. I never really thought about the actual size of a Camaro's front and rear glasses, either. That's some considerable weight savings! Aiming for mid-10s? Any further tuning for the big end since the last TNT report?
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