Camshaft Position Sensor / P0013

[GranPrix]

So I've been having crappy slow starts and sluggish acceleration and got a P0013 code. Did some searching on here and not much came up so I figured I'd post it up for anyone else getting a P0013.

I had the typical symptoms such as the engine light, difficulty starting and sluggish performance. I checked for vacuum leaks especially since I have a catch can and I had recently cleaned out the throttle body. New throttle body gasket was put in and everything else checked out fine so I moved on to the cam position sensor. Kinda a PIA to get to but not that hard.

Swapped it out, disconnected the battery, cleared the code, drove it for a couple miles and not longer have any issues. Sensor sits under the TB and the right.

 

[Fless]

Is a cam/crank correlation procedure recommended for this change? If so, have you done it? Wonder if it makes any noticeable difference.

 

[GranPrix]

Is a cam/crank correlation procedure recommended for this change? If so, have you done it? Wonder if it makes any noticeable difference.

Not from what I've read and from what I've been told

 

[oldchev]

Hey...Jumping on this older thread. I recently had my transmission (04 Yukon Denali) rebuilt due to broken reaction carrier (this had 276K on it).
While trans out, the shop called to come look at some wires. The CMP (camshaft position sensor) wires were clean of any insulation with copper showing. They could and did splice a new pigtail to fix. Now...I have frequent starter "run on" with no start. If I turn key off then attempt a restart, it will start immediatly like it used to before. Never have a repeat after a second attempt. Doesn't seem to matter if cold, warm or time.
So after reading some on the internet about CMP function and reading the shop manuals, I am thinking its the CMP sensor.
I don't know why cutting in a new pigtail would do this, or just by happenstance, when they touched it doing the repair it would occaisionally fail (like evry 2nd or 3rd start).

Shop manuals say remove the intake manifold for access. A little more work but easier access to the pigtail wiring should I want to check their work and re do.

Opinions on any of this?

Thanks guys...

 

[mattbta]

Hey...Jumping on this older thread. I recently had my transmission (04 Yukon Denali) rebuilt due to broken reaction carrier (this had 276K on it).
While trans out, the shop called to come look at some wires. The CMP (camshaft position sensor) wires were clean of any insulation with copper showing. They could and did splice a new pigtail to fix. Now...I have frequent starter "run on" with no start. If I turn key off then attempt a restart, it will start immediatly like it used to before. Never have a repeat after a second attempt. Doesn't seem to matter if cold, warm or time.
So after reading some on the internet about CMP function and reading the shop manuals, I am thinking its the CMP sensor.
I don't know why cutting in a new pigtail would do this, or just by happenstance, when they touched it doing the repair it would occaisionally fail (like evry 2nd or 3rd start).

Shop manuals say remove the intake manifold for access. A little more work but easier access to the pigtail wiring should I want to check their work and re do.

Opinions on any of this?

Thanks guys...

Wrong section. I'll save you the trouble of starting your own thread in the 2000-2006 section. I would bet they also replaced the sensor and put in a junk aftermarket one. I know, because this same random no-start happened to me after shop did my rear main and put a cheap cam pos sensor in. I also know, because it's been reported on here several times before.

Buy an OEM sensor from a reputable source and put it in. It's easiest to pull the intake to replace and since you also want to inspect the new pigtail, might as well. Sensor can be replaced without pulling it, but not easily.

Does it do like this?

 

[oldchev]

Yes. Thats what it does.
I'll look back at bolt with my boroscope camera to see if they "cleaned" the area.
I have looked at ACDelco for my sensor. I'll verify with the local dealer to be sure it's the correct part number.
I don't know why they'd do that but makes sense. Maybe they broke it or???
Who knows. Not going to get to this until June. Lots of other commitments. Thanks. I'll report back.

 

[Plimbob]

Oldchev,

I'll second what Mattbta explained. I have encountered the 'run on' issue when I replaced the cam sensor with an aftermarket. Albeit it was on a 07 5.3L. I ended up taking it out and replacing with ACDelco, problem stopped.

 

[oldchev]

Thanks to both of you guys.
Today I responded to another guy having exact scenario as me. To date, I have done nothing. I used to go right after this stuff, but with increasing awkwardness of repair angles plus age related flexibility, these things tend to go wayward as far as "getting it done" goes. My paperwork for the trans repair and other minor items only says pigtail. That said, I did not consider the fact they possibly did more than that. Now, after finally reading both posts and the other guys, I may attempt to do the mostly blind replacement of the CMP sensor. I do not have a Tech2 for a relearn. As time flies I guess I should have bought one years ago. Its too bad the ECM can't self learn when something is fixed and all sytems are in good order.
Things are better now days in some ways, worse in others.
-Oldchev

 

[oldchev]

Update: I used my boroscope to look at the pigtail and connector to the CMP. The CMP bolt bolt looked pretty clean compared to the other parts around it. That said, I re examined the invoce on the trans work including the pigtail connector. The Ah Ha moment when I saw they stated replacing the pigtail and the CMP. So, I have the GM 19420911 coming from Rock Auto.
I'll update when installed. I am pretty sure this will fix it. (fingers crossed). oh yeah...I see that my issue is in the wrong section. Pardon me, Getting up there, detail eludes me.