Can a Torsion bar become weak??

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Chris05

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I have a 2005 Z71 Tahoe I put a leveling kit on it and had to max out the driver side Key while the passenger side is less than half way. It sits level now but my question is can a torsion bar become weak over time? Thinking about ordering a new one so that I can get the full lift from the leveling kit that I wanted.
 

CamReynolds

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I have a 2005 Z71 Tahoe I put a leveling kit on it and had to max out the driver side Key while the passenger side is less than half way. It sits level now but my question is can a torsion bar become weak over time? Thinking about ordering a new one so that I can get the full lift from the leveling kit that I wanted.
The driver side is always gonna be cranked a little more just because there is more weight on that side. But I'd say they probably can become weaker over time
 
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Chris05

Chris05

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The driver side is always gonna be cranked a little more just because there is more weight on that side. But I'd say they probably can become weaker over time
Yeah I expected to have it cranked a little more but with the leveling kit installed and the driver side cranked all the way up I’m only 1/2” higher in the front.
 

Chubbs

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Torsion bar wears out & degrades just like a coil spring.

Those bars are indexed & if you dropped the bars to replace the keys and THEN put the bars back in a different position than they were originally (i.e. clocked 180 degrees out of phase) then you will have this issue of the bars supporting the truck in a completely different manner

I did the same thing
 
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Chris05

Chris05

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Torsion bar wears out & degrades just like a coil spring.

Those bars are indexed & if you dropped the bars to replace the keys and THEN put the bars back in a different position than they were originally (i.e. clocked 180 degrees out of phase) then you will have this issue of the bars supporting the truck in a completely different manner

I did the same thing
So should I remove both keys and re install them making sure they are clocked the same?
 

wade_660

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Torsion bar wears out & degrades just like a coil spring.

Those bars are indexed & if you dropped the bars to replace the keys and THEN put the bars back in a different position than they were originally (i.e. clocked 180 degrees out of phase) then you will have this issue of the bars supporting the truck in a completely different manner

I did the same thing

You mean having the bars flipped around front to back or just in a different location clockwise in the hex?


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Chubbs

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No I didn't mean flipped around, just rotating the hex like you said. Even in shop manuals it will tell you to mark the orientation of the bars & return them to the exact same placement in regard to the hex or phasing within the control arm & TB x-member support.
 
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Chubbs

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So should I remove both keys and re install them making sure they are clocked the same?

They say it won't help unless you return them [torsion bar] to the same manufactured position. Unless you marked them, or locate the markings on PS bar & compare with orientation of markings on DS bar, that's about all you have to go on. The bars on my truck had some blue paint & letters/symbols of some sort that I never paid attention to until after I R&R the keys.

I would suggest rotating the DS bar like I did to remedy the issue but it's a lot of work and may or may not offer the same result. Could be that 1 bar is more worn-out or factory defective but if your OCD like I am you will surely make a run at it. Which I don't blame you

I have since pondered on the whole fiasco & wondered to myself if rotating the TBs 180-deg from the manufactured position would offer a new level of support as the bars would now be torquing from a different range, {no longer in the same stressed position where it just sat for 15-years} if that makes any sense, but I don't have the time or space to apply such a theory. And then I remembered how I kept the PS bar indexed correctly while only losing track of the DS and it being the 1 that lost range/strength as requiring more adjusting to reach the same tension/level of PS and kind of gave up on the idea. then again your situation could prove me correct in my theory if you happened to return the DS bar within the same original phase & the replacement key exacerbated an underlying problem with degraded bar. Clock it to a new phase and get some lift/rebound back out of it. Def worth a shot as those bars are expensive and swapping a used piece on there is a gamble.

If 1 were to phase the bars differently, clocking counter wise on the DS would lose support, while clockwise from the orig position would provide more tension, in theory. This would be opposite for the PS accounting for range of motion within suspension. 180-deg out of orig position would account for loss. It [tor bar] would need to be turned/phased 0-45 deg toward the center of vehicle from the manufactured/original position to gain any lift or further support

I hate to always write 2-3 paragraphs but if I'm going to offer opinions & advice I want to be detailed & concise as to avoid any misunderstanding of what I'm trying to communicate.
 
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Chris05

Chris05

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They say it won't help unless you return them [torsion bar] to the same manufactured position. Unless you marked them, or locate the markings on PS bar & compare with orientation of markings on DS bar, that's about all you have to go on. The bars on my truck had some blue paint & letters/symbols of some sort that I never paid attention to until after I R&R the keys.

I would suggest rotating the DS bar like I did to remedy the issue but it's a lot of work and may or may not offer the same result. Could be that 1 bar is more worn-out or factory defective but if your OCD like I am you will surely make a run at it. Which I don't blame you
Yes I will try it for sure! It’s sitting level now it just sucks that I have the leveling kit on and can’t get the height out of it I should. Thanks for the help.
 

Chubbs

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If you are to stick a brand new bar on that DSide I'm confident you would level out nicely; new bars on both side would be better than new but I think they run over $300/Ea if IRC

And it must be the same bars as factory or you will have big problems. They made a wide range of bars for different applications.
 

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