Can i run my 2005 Yukon 5.3l with 8 quarts of oil in it

[Fless]

Tough situation. But unless I'm mistaken, you did the diagnosis and the shop did the work that you requested, so I'm not quite sure how it's just the shop's problem. Now, if they were paid to assess and diagnose, that's a different story.

It seems like this situation would call for some additional diag to help determine the root cause of the suspected lack of oil pressure. Using a manual gauge would tell, for sure. Also, the engine may have adequate oil pressure, but a faulty gauge could mis-represent that. Think about doing the stepper motors especially if the cluster has never been rebuilt. An alternative is to stick a like cluster in it to see if the gauge on the substitute cluster acts differently.

 

[OR VietVet]

Yes, the cluster is very easy to change out, if you have another like vehicle. Literally can disassemble both clusters and plug in to check in less than 30 minutes.

 

[lyncht1967]

do a diagnostic gauge test or have shop do for you like one below. if it's good, good...if not see if shop will re-address issue. if they won't, initiate dispute process with credit card issuer...get issuer to send you an email confirming it's in process....then take copy to shop, they will get right on it then...then cancel dispute.

 

[Donal]

Hi. Will it harm my 2005 5.3l Yukon to run with 8 quarts of oil in it. The shop just supposedly changed my pickup tube o-ring and either they didn't actually do it or they messed up the seal during installation. I am willing to bet the pump is losing prime. When the truck is turned off. I can't afford to sink more money into right now and it's too damn cold for me to work on it in the driveway.

You know that you check the oil level with the engine running? The oil level during operation is important. The operating level is marked on the dipstick and needs to near the upper mark, when engine is running. The oil level with 8 quarts will be fine. The crankshaft rotation is well above the windage tray.

 

[Fless]

You know that you check the oil level with the engine running? The oil level during operation is important. The operating level is marked on the dipstick and needs to near the upper mark, when engine is running. The oil level with 8 quarts will be fine. The crankshaft rotation is well above the windage tray.

^^^^This method of checking engine oil level with the engine running is just plain WRONG.

 

[cuttingedge]

Tough situation. But unless I'm mistaken, you did the diagnosis and the shop did the work that you requested, so I'm not quite sure how it's just the shop's problem. Now, if they were paid to assess and diagnose, that's a different story.

It seems like this situation would call for some additional diag to help determine the root cause of the suspected lack of oil pressure. Using a manual gauge would tell, for sure. Also, the engine may have adequate oil pressure, but a faulty gauge could mis-represent that. Think about doing the stepper motors especially if the cluster has never been rebuilt. An alternative is to stick a like cluster in it to see if the gauge on the substitute cluster acts differently.

I understand your perspective, but telling the customer it is ready, taking payment, knowing I was picking it up after hours, in 20 degree weather, and NOT telling me it had zero oil pressure is the real issue here.

There is a problem with something they did. The only thing between the pump and the sump is the seal. That's it. Unless the pickup tube is cracked or damaged, which they should have caught during pre-assembly inspection.

Literally, if I point it uphill and start it, zero pressure. If I point it downhill and start it, it has normal oil pressure, near 50lbs at cold start idle. For this to be the case, it has to be sucking air and failing to prime. That's all it can be.

At any rate I have found another mechanic recommended by a friend who has given me a reasonable price to redo the repair, along with taking pictures during the process.

 

[cuttingedge]

Here's some pics from the mechanic that just did the job. He did not send a pic of the pickup tube with the new seal on it? Notice the picture of the oil pan pre cleanup. Looks pretty good for 207k miles. Not much in the way of sludge or build up. Speaks well of full synthetic oil and timely oil changes in my opinion.

 

[cuttingedge]

I'm posting another view of the o-ring before removal. Does anything look out of the norm here? Is it typical for the side nearest the bolt to retain more of its shape than the side opposite?

 

[OR VietVet]

I'm posting another view of the o-ring before removal. Does anything look out of the norm here? Is it typical for the side nearest the bolt to retain more of its shape than the side opposite?
View attachment 447745

That is a very good question. I would like to ask an engineer about that.

 

[cuttingedge]

That is a very good question. I would like to ask an engineer about that.

At this point I'm kind of wondering if the clamp was overtighened and the edge that contacts the bulge in the tube has cracked or pierced it? Judging by the o-ring deformation, I think it's a possibility.

If you look closely, the flange in the tube is really deformed nearest the bolt, and the side opposite retains it's normal roundess. If this is the case, the original mechanic should have caught it. Also, if you look at the tube in the first pic, is it clean just below that surface which could indicate oil was coming out there and keeping the tube washed so to speak.

It goes in for the repair on the 22nd, so I'll know pretty soon.