Can I use my stock UCA’s for a 3” lift?

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Tozan

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I would replace it. All of these spacer lifts ruin the ball joint angles and they don't drive very well and wear the joints out faster. The control arms made for the lift should fix both of those things.

This really depends on the kit.. "All" is certainly not true. I am running a Rancho 4 inch spacer lift and it comes with new spindles that take care of the ball joint angles. Mine drives great even up to 80 mph across desert roads and behaves great on highways up to 115 mph.

I also have over 10 inches of wheel travel in the front.
 

91RS

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That's because you fixed the ball joint angles. If you only do a spacer lift and nothing else they drive like crap.
 

Dustin Jackson

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This really depends on the kit.. "All" is certainly not true. I am running a Rancho 4 inch spacer lift and it comes with new spindles that take care of the ball joint angles. Mine drives great even up to 80 mph across desert roads and behaves great on highways up to 115 mph.

I also have over 10 inches of wheel travel in the front.
@Tozan As a new person can you help me understand how to get more articulation in the front? I understand that you are running stock control arms so where does all the travel come from?
 

Tozan

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@Tozan As a new person can you help me understand how to get more articulation in the front? I understand that you are running stock control arms so where does all the travel come from?

The main limiting factor is the amount of shock travel the stock shock and most aftermarket shocks have. If I remember right stock shocks have around 3.5 inches.

I have a set of custom built King shocks with over 5 inches of travel and removed the front sway bar too. I have a 4 inch Rancho kit that is no longer available it came with new spindles that take care of the ball joint problem.

My next project for the rear will be installing a new set of Spohn upper lower control arms and panhard bar with longer springs and a set of King 3.0 shocks and getting rid of the sway bar or at least putting a quick disconnect on them.
 

Mighty Hd

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at 3", your ride is going to be terrible and *really* stressing the upper balljoint. RIP to your balljoints.
 
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CAMASO

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Hello all, been away for a bit due to life, but I was finally able to get the Yukon leveled. I went with Rancho Quicklifts all the way around. I also added Wulf 1/2 inch level kit in the front and ProRyde 1 inch blocks in the rear. Took a bit to figure what Rancho setting best suits the Yukon, but it all seems to be dialed in so far. Sorry, just realized I should have zoomed in a bit more on the photo. I’ll add more photos when the weather is better.

FC38ED0F-AD1A-4588-9289-8448264D308F.jpeg
 
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CAMASO

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@Mighty Hd, you’re absolutely correct. After some research decided not to go with the 3” level.
 

Dustin Jackson

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@CAMASO Looks good man. They are right once you get to about 3 inches things get more complicated. I just put an additional 2.5 inch spacer in the front but I went with forged upper control arms to compensate for the angle. But now my rear axle is off center, looking into a longer track bar now.
 
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CAMASO

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Thanks @Dustin Jackson! Sometimes you really don’t have a true understanding until you’re in the wheel well digging around. Haha. When it comes time to replace the ball joints, I’m going with new UCA’s for a mild lift. For future purposes, what was your total rear lift?
 

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