Changing brakes

[jmreynolds1984]

I have an 06 Suburban that needs new brakes on the front. I've never paid for a brake change and would rather not start now, though I don't currently have a man in my life that I'm willing to ask for help (I am a girl). I have a modest tool collection (Craftsman mechanics tool set plus a few others), some knowledge and experience with minor repairs without help and assisting with a few major repairs, I'm intelligent and a fast learner. So the question for those with more expertise is: is this a job I can probably do myself with the help of some YouTube videos?

 

[fiatdale]

Yes. Sometimes it takes some good torque to get the caliper off the spindle but it's definitely doable with some half inch tools. We can always help.

 

[David Paul]

FlatDale is right, to to bad of a job. You sound like you have a "can do" attitude. I'd say go for it....

 

[SLCHOE]

It's not hard at all. If the brake caliper brackets have never been off the truck before, get yourself a nice little propane torch to heat up the bolts securing it them to the splindle. GM uses some pretty strong loctite on those and they can make a 250 lb man let loose a few choice words using a breaker bar. The torch heats up the loctite and they come out easy-peasy.

 

[CHOO CHOO]

I was iffy about it at 1st as i suck at mechanic work(anything that can go wrong...does.), but ive changed 3 sets of rotors on different vehicles now and wouldn't pay someone to do it again. The torch helps alot for stubborn bolts. Just take your time and watch youtube videos. Its really simple tbh. Id say go for it

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

 

[Larryjb]

As a DIY myself, and being a small build of a guy, I would consider making sure I have these tools, perhaps:

extension/breaker bar like this one: https://www.kmstools.com/performance-tool-3-8-drive-long-handle-rachet-66834
Very handy. The propane torch can be handy, as well as penetrating fluid. I don't normally use the long breaker to tighten things up because you can easily strip bolts with it.

click type torque wrench. It's real easy to overtighten bolts. I've stripped aluminum threads because I didn't think I needed a torque wrench. I suppose an experienced mechanic doesn't need it for the things I'm tightening because they know how tight it should be by feel. I don't so I use a torque wrench. The exception is caliper hose bolt. I tighten with my short 3/8" ratchet. Then I clean and dry all around the bolt/hose area, start the engine and press on the brakes as if I were stopping for dear life. If I see brake fluid weeping, I give the bolt another tug and repeat until I don't see fluid weeping.

If you have a little extra cash lying around, get the largest 110V air compressor and a high quality (e.g. Chicago Pneumatic) 1/2" impact. Being a small guy and starting to age, doing lug nuts by hand is starting to get my back. I use this to remove lug nuts. To install lug nuts, I thread them by hand until they're well threaded, then torque them to the lowest air impact setting first, then the medium setting. I do finish with the hand torque wrench, but doing this saves my back.

Larry

 

[SLCHOE]

Then I clean and dry all around the bolt/hose area, start the engine and press on the brakes as if I were stopping for dear life. If I see brake fluid weeping, I give the bolt another tug and repeat until I don't see fluid weeping.


Larry

Stop doing that. When you pump the pedal, pump it slowly only to about 50% the way down until you have a somewhat firmer pedal. Pumping it like a madman just moves the air back towards the master cylinder which is what you dont want. Same with the guy pumping while you bleed the brakes using the 2 person method. Half pump, half pump, half pump and hold. Crack the bleeder till the other person tells you the pedal has gone to the floor, close the valve and repeat till no air comes out.

 

[Larryjb]

I should have added I do this after having bled the brakes.

 

[thirdcoast]

Since you are replacing rotors & pads, why not do the upgrade to the GMT900 brakes??

It is not much more than replacing with stock stuff and the braking is extremely better.

I would use the new Raybestos E3 parts, Front Rotors 580279PER, Front Pads EHT1092H along with the AC Delco PPV Calipers: Caliper w/bracket 19176793 & Caliper w/bracket 19176794. (1 is right side & 1 is left side)

Just this upgrade will significantly increase your braking power and it all fits just like the original.. Basically what you are doing is creating more leverage by going to a larger diameter rotor.

It will all fit in a stock 17" wheel.

Do not buy Drilled rotors as they do nothing but remove metal and with a Suburban you need all the swept area you can get.

If you do not buy the Raybestos stuff, use factory OEM AC Delco parts. You will be happy.

Good luck,

Thirdcoast

(BTW, I have done this to several previous GM SUV's & Trucks..)

 

[fiatdale]

^ the one thing to consider with that, since it needs a 17" wheel is most spares on those years were 16". Could make for a pain in the ass on the side of the road.