Changing rotted backing plates/dust shields

[SMDBIOS]

I just performed this repair on my 2004 Yukon SLT, the instructions here helped me greatly! It took about 4 hours for both sides..

Here are some helpful tips that I learned along the way...



#1 Make sure you can remove the differential fill plug BEFORE you start any of the diff cover removal process. I would suggest that you start the whole process by making sure you can loosen that plug.

#2 Use a 5/16 - 1/4" socket with a swivel adapter on the Cross Shaft Bolt, mine was not budging with the wrench and any more force would have stripped it.

#3 One of my spider gears fell out during the project. Don't rotate the axles once that cross shaft is removed (as stated in the photo directions) Mine fell out because I bumped the axle by accident.

If you do happen to lose a spider gear, it simply goes back in on the exact opposite side of the other one. They also have a metal cup that they sit on, make sure you pull that out with your magnet (because it probably fell to the bottom of the carrier). place the cup on the bottom of the spider gear that fell out and rotate the carrier to position the other spider gear (that's still in the carrier) away from you, then insert the spider gear and cup by gently rotating the gears in one direction. You know you have it right when you're able to slide the cross shaft back in place as it goes through the center of both spider gears.


#4 The C clips may be tapered if you have some mileage on the truck. Mine has 82k on it.. if you reverse the C clips when you put them back in, your axles will push back out.. but not all the way, then you're cross shaft will catch the axle ends and will require some force to get the cross shaft past the axle ends.

 

[dogbert2521]

Thanks for the writeup, it gave me the confidence to attempt this job and it went very well. This job was relatively easy in the end (about 4+ hours of work, would be around 3ish now that I know what to do).

I agree with SMDBIOS #1 recommendation about removing the fill plug FIRST. I got the job done and then had trouble getting the diff fill plug out (3/8" drive rounded off). To fix this, I cleaned out the plug, got a 3/8" axle key from Home Depot, drove it in until it was fully seated, then put my largest crescent wrench on and tapped the end with hammer. Now I just need to find a replacement diff fill plug (nearly impossible online anyway).

I'd also recommend sliding the pinion shaft out partially when it is pointing up, then putting a clamp on it so it cannot slide out. This should (I think) prevent problems with rotating the axle and having the spider gears fall out.

Pete

I just performed this repair on my 2004 Yukon SLT, the instructions here helped me greatly! It took about 4 hours for both sides..

Here are some helpful tips that I learned along the way...



#1 Make sure you can remove the differential fill plug BEFORE you start any of the diff cover removal process. I would suggest that you start the whole process by making sure you can loosen that plug.

 

[smurphy80]

Just also wanted to comment, not to rain on anyone's parade. But they do make 'two-piece' backing plates for our trucks that do not require you to remove or mess with the axles.

 

[mike]

hello and remember that if you have serviced your rear differential on a regular basis and don't want to pull the rear end, Dorman makes a two-part dust shield that can be ordered thru amazon for about $28.00. You still have to pull apart some of the brakes; however, once the four bolts holding the dust shield are exposed, the job is almost done with the help of a par of tin snips to remove what is left of the old shield. Dorman #924-213
Mike

---------- Post added at 02:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:48 PM ----------

hello and remember that if you have serviced your rear differential on a regular basis and don't want to pull the rear end, Dorman makes a two-part dust shield that can be ordered thru amazon for about $28.00. You still have to pull apart some of the brakes; however, once the four bolts holding the dust shield are exposed, the job is almost done with the help of a par of tin snips to remove what is left of the old shield.
Mike

 

[54Rich]

Help, the job is almost done

I should have read all the responses before I stated, now I'm stuck. Just finished the backing plates, actualy had a rear seal go, so I had to pull apart the rear. Put it back together and it's ready, except for some rear end lube. I can't get the darn plug out! I'm soaking it right now, I've heated it. It will not move.

Any tricks?

Thanks,

Rich

As an update, I never did get the plug out, never even got it to move! Ended up magintizing some drill bits (to keep the junk out) and going through the plug, tapped it at 12mm and then used a 12mm OS drain plug. What a PITA. A 1/2 to 3/8 impact adapter with my impact wrench would not move it.

 

[TALL00TAHOE]

Damn wish i had this instructional about a year ago. Fought those things for about a day trying to figure it out.

 

[blue70chevelle]

Yeah, sorry to hear about everyone's problems with the stuck fill bolt. I didn't have to worry about that as I have a diff cover that has a fill plug built into it..

 

[ESV_Platinum]

Hey guys, I have an 04 Escalade ESV, the backing plates for the rear brakes are completely shot at 75k miles.

I'm wary of pulling the whole rear end apart as is described by the OP, does buying the 2 piece backing plate (Dorman #924-213) mean that I don't need to pull the axles out and mess with the diff?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...hByPartNumber=true&itemIdentifier=973701_0_0_

Thanks for your help, sorry that im a noob

 

[oneradride]

Never apologize for being new at something, we all were before we tried it.....
There are two schools of thought on this...


1. I pulled my axles and did the one piece replacement plates, and if I had to do it again this is still what I would do. It's not that bad, follow the directions and have 3+ hours. There is a reason people say if its worth doing, it's worth doing right.... (page 2 of this thread)


2. Get the 2 piece, remove the rusted ones with tin snips, blow torch whatever.... and be pissed because they squeak every time you turn. YES they flex, EVEN in the rear. I had to bend the one piece backing plates a little so they didn't rub on the rotors... I can't even imagine how much trouble the 2 piece would be.


Inevitably it's your call and your truck. Have faith in yourself and go kick its ass....

 

[ESV_Platinum]

Never apologize for being new at something, we all were before we tried it.....
There are two schools of thought on this...


1. I pulled my axles and did the one piece replacement plates, and if I had to do it again this is still what I would do. It's not that bad, follow the directions and have 3+ hours. There is a reason people say if its worth doing, it's worth doing right.... (page 2 of this thread)


2. Get the 2 piece, remove the rusted ones with tin snips, blow torch whatever.... and be pissed because they squeak every time you turn. YES they flex, EVEN in the rear. I had to bend the one piece backing plates a little so they didn't rub on the rotors... I can't even imagine how much trouble the 2 piece would be.


Inevitably it's your call and your truck. Have faith in yourself and go kick its ass....

Thank you for the response, I have to say, this is a much better forum than cadillacforums.com

I swear all they care about are their HP numbers and quarter mile times for their insanely fast CTS-V's


I see exactly what you are saying, the 1 piece design looks much stronger for sure.

Unfortunately I'm the guy that's going to mess up a seal or pull everything apart and then never get it back together.

I'm going to have to think about this one, I have the new fluid and gasket ready to go into the rear diff so I need to decide soon.

Thanks again for the help.