Changing Transmission Filter (First Time Ever)

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Rocket Man

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So atf exits top port of rad? And wouldn't it exit so fast you couldn't fill fast enough to keep up?

I did similar process on a caravan and I had the return hose in a bucket and there was no way I could run engine longer than 5-7 sec or so and had to top off. Fluid flowed fast.
I believe you put a barbed connector onto the radiator side, add a hose and put that into a container of fluid and the line coming from the trans goes into a bucket to collect. That way you refill at the same time. I haven’t done it but hopefully somebody who has can chime in.
 

new2yukon

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I believe you put a barbed connector onto the radiator side, add a hose and put that into a container of fluid and the line coming from the trans goes into a bucket to collect. That way you refill at the same time. I haven’t done it but hopefully somebody who has can chime in.
Ok. Gotcha.
 

Rocket Man

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This is a write up about it (step by step), I have done it to both my Tahoe and my Denali
https://www.gmfullsize.com/threads/how-to-4l60e-transmission-flush-filter-change.179148/
There’s also an adapter that snaps in place of the trans line with a quick connect that has a barbed end on it so you don’t have to remove that fitting. Some of the new radiators you don’t want to remove that fitting because it holds the trans cooler on the inside and you can’t get it to seal again after. I don’t have the part number though, I used to have one but I can’t find it.
 

latvius

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There’s also an adapter that snaps in place of the trans line with a quick connect that has a barbed end on it so you don’t have to remove that fitting. Some of the new radiators you don’t want to remove that fitting because it holds the trans cooler on the inside and you can’t get it to seal again after. I don’t have the part number though, I used to have one but I can’t find it.

Yeah I think I got that at O'Reillys it snaps in like the trans line does.
 

trailblazer

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Yeah I mentioned it in my post, “Hayden 397”. It’s like $5-10. It replicates the GM swage for the radiator and had a barbed end. I actually permanently use those in mine as I ran all new hose and a cooler.

L8a8c8cf9c438650fde573f5d1b794c3e.jpg
 

Bob2C

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Yeah I mentioned it in my post, “Hayden 397”. It’s like $5-10. It replicates the GM swage for the radiator and had a barbed end. I actually permanently use those in mine as I ran all new hose and a cooler.

L8a8c8cf9c438650fde573f5d1b794c3e.jpg
Wish I knew about this when I did my transmission fluid. Had to hold the tubing in by hand. Not a big deal but this would have been nice. Oh well. Live and learn.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

PG01

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Apparently this thread went askew and turned into ‘how to change..’ instead of ‘should I change?’

@lumberjack890

I still don’t care what you all say, I wouldn’t touch it until I had the cash for a rebuild or a new trans Lined up and ready to go in. At 240k why chance it? Leave it until it dies or ....maybe it won’t and he will get another 60k out of it....I couldn’t care less if trannys like clean fluid or whatever anyone else did and at what mileage they did it. He asked if he should, for the first time on his truck to his knowledge, and my opinion is don’t touch it. Like i said, unless the op has a line on a new trans or the money for a rebuild why poke a hornets nest? What’s the point? At this point drive it, if it dies, it dies....If not great and good for for him...
 

trailblazer

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OP indicates that it’s “brown with a hint of pink” and didn’t indicate that he sees metal sparkles. He also indicates that it shifts “like a dream”.
I recommend that he change the pan filter, clean the magnet, and also do a fluid exchange. Just because the precious owner(s) skipped one maintenance doesn’t justify delaying it more. Transmission fluid breaks down over time. Making a judgement of fluid quality based on colour is not enough:
“According to the Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association (ATRA), fluid breakdown is still the number one cause of most transmission failures. Worn-out, oxidized transmission fluid can’t provide the same level of lubrication and protection as fresh fluid. Contaminants in the fluid and varnish buildup on critical surfaces take a toll over time. Dirty worn-out fluid can cause control valves to stick, and bearings and clutches to fail inside the transmission.”

On the other hand, I once owned a 1997 GMC Suburban that had 150k. Fluid was “brown with a hint of pink”. I had it reverse-flushed by an auto shop I worked at. A week later it wouldn’t shift out of reverse. Little that I knew was that the mechanics had an idea brewing that ever since the BG trans flush machine entered the shop they were starting to replace a lot of transmissions. Needless to say, some of the mechanics no longer recommended using that machine. One old dog tech pointed out that he never had issues after a spill-n-fill (pan & filter change only) in 25 years yet he started to feel like a scoundrel ever since that BG machine arrived.
 

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