Chevrolet Tahoe (2008 - 2012) TPMS Reset Procedure not working

[justbabs]

It seems as if the OP isn't going to spend any money or effort since they are looking to replace the truck soon. I consider this a moot point/post.

That's not true. I'm just looking to see if there's a reasonably priced solution to get the warning off the dash. It would help either resale, or trade in value when I'm ready to get rid of it.
I'll spend some time and effort, but not hundreds of dollars, to resolve the issue. I don't see the need to spend over $100 on a scan tool that may not work on my next vehicle, it may not be a GM. I'll look at the Amazon tool, but reviews have been mixed on it's reliability and accuracy. I understand it's less than $10, and if it doesn't work I'm not out that much, however still no closer to a solution.

 

[GMCChevy]

The orange tool from Amazon worked for me. If it doesn't and the method you used doesn't it's a good sign the sensor is dead.

 

[justbabs]

The orange tool from Amazon worked for me. If it doesn't and the method you used doesn't it's a good sign the sensor is dead.

Thanks. I'm a little leary about tools that are so inexpensive. I'm not cheap, just cautious.

 

[swathdiver]

Thanks. I'm a little leary about tools that are so inexpensive. I'm not cheap, just cautious.

Then you are not trusting us or the advice given.

To solve this problem quickly and accurately, a bi-directional scan tool is needed to pull the internal BCM codes. It's likely that the sensors are dead or the wrong frequency. If the RCDLR has gone bad, a new one requires programming. New sensors are $50 plus installation. There are fancy TPM tools that can talk to the sensors to see what frequency they are and the condition of their battery and such.

 

[Fless]

I did try starting with the Rf, and went around to the other tires. Same result.

So the first wheel position (RF) you tried wouldn't register either?

 

[justbabs]

So the first wheel position (RF) you tried wouldn't register either?

No, so I ordered the scan tool from Amazon.

 

[justbabs]

Then you are not trusting us or the advice given.

To solve this problem quickly and accurately, a bi-directional scan tool is needed to pull the internal BCM codes. It's likely that the sensors are dead or the wrong frequency. If the RCDLR has gone bad, a new one requires programming. New sensors are $50 plus installation. There are fancy TPM tools that can talk to the sensors to see what frequency they are and the condition of their battery and such.

Several people have said the scan tool didn't work for them, or at all. So, it's not a matter of not trusting advice from strangers, it's a matter caution.
While I understand the battery life of the sensors in the 2011 rims is most likely the culprit in those rims, I'm cautiously optimistic that's not the case in the 2018 rims, as the previous owner didn't have a problem. Yes, there's the posiiblilty the batteries are dead, and also the frequencies may not be correct.
I came here for tips on troubleshooting, and diagnostic procedures, not to be talked down to.

"It seems as if the OP isn't going to spend any money or effort since they are looking to replace the truck soon. I consider this a moot point/post."
If it's such a moot point/post, feel free to unfollow it.

 

[Fless]

FWIW the GM TPMS sensor part numbers are different between 2011 and 2018, even though they're the same frequency. Not sure if that's a problem.

2018:


2011:

 

[swathdiver]

Several people have said the scan tool didn't work for them, or at all.

Well, it works if their system is functioning properly or they got a dud. This assumes they are driving a GMT900, not a Toyota or a Maserati. It's reasonably priced too.

Adios.