Clunks when turning and on uneven ground

[Matthew Jeschke]

This is driving me NUTS. I've nearly rebuild my entire truck / is a project vehicle. Including much of the suspension. I developed a clunk. It's intermittent but seems to happen when the suspension is unevenly loaded (uneven surface) and turning. It also seems to come from the driver side.

Here's what I've checked (Inspection Video HERE):
1. ball joints are all good
2. Steering bar is rock solid, including tie rods
3. Sway bar - ends were a bit loose so tightened them back up. Bushings to frame are old but no metal to metal contact. Play checked side to side and up and down on both control arms... none present.
4. Engine appears to be held perfectly in place / no exhaust rubbing or any of that. I also have new motor mounts.
5. Intermediate steering shaft is solid... no slop. Maybe dry? Inspection HERE
6. Shock isolators are crooked so I took one apart, nowhere is the shaft hitting the mount. It's DEAD in the center. Inspection HERE

Out of additional ideas or things to check, or even how to further diagnose this. It's driving me nuts.

 

[2012 Yukon XL]

Maybe this is the answer to your problem.

Technical Service Bulletin
#06-08-61-003D: Underbody Pop or Clunk Type Noise While Turning or Driving on Uneven Road Surfaces (Install Body Mount Insulator) - (Sep 10, 2008)

Subject: Underbody Pop or Clunk Type Noise While Turning or Driving on Uneven Road Surfaces (Install Body Mount Insulator)

Models: 2004-2008 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT
2004-2008 Chevrolet Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe
2004-2008 Chevrolet Silverado (Classic), Silverado
2004-2008 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL, Yukon Denali, Yukon Denali XL
2004-2008 GMC Sierra (Classic), Sierra Denali (Classic), Sierra, Sierra Denali



This bulletin is being revised to update the model years and include diagnosis information. Warranty information has also been updated. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-08-61-003C (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).

Condition

Some customers may comment on a pop or clunk type noise while turning or driving on uneven road surfaces. This noise can be heard and/or felt at either the driver's or front passenger floor pan area.

Cause

Under certain conditions, normal movement between the frame and the #1, #2 or #3 body mounts may cause this noise to occur.
Diagnosis

1. If the vehicle is equipped with aftermarket (non-GM Accessory) running boards or the running board is mounted using the body mount bolt, remove the running boards prior to test driving the vehicle. This will eliminate the running boards as the possible cause of the noise.
2. Install the J-39570 Chassis Ears to the frame rail at or near the body mounts.
3. Test drive the vehicle to identify which mount is suspect.

Correction

Install an insulator at the suspect mount(s). The insulator should be installed between the upper portion of the body mount and the frame bracket. The #1 mount is the mount located just under the A-pillar. The #2 mount is the mount located just under the B-pillar. The #3 mount is the mount located just under the C-pillar. Use the procedure listed below.

INSULATOR PART NUMBER 15899719

1. Raise the vehicle on the hoist. It is recommended to use a four-post lift or strap the vehicle frame to the hoist arms.
2. For the left side mounts only, remove the intermediate park brake cable. Perform the following steps:
2.1. Remove the nut from the park brake equalizer.
2.2. Remove the intermediate cable from the equalizer.
2.3. Depress the retaining tabs that secure the park brake cable to the frame.
2.4. Pull slightly on the cable from the mounting area in order to provide slack for body movement without binding the cable.
3. Remove all of the body mount bolts on the side being repaired.
4. Properly support the body at the body mount area.
Caution: When you remove the body mount, do NOT separate the frame from the body more than is necessary. Possible personal injury and damage to multiple parts may result.
5. Lower the chassis accordingly in order to remove the upper portion of the body mount.
6. Install the new insulator to the bottom of the top portion of the body mount. The picture shows the insulator (1) location after the body mount is reassembled.
7. Install the body mount to the frame bracket.
8. Perform the following procedure before installing the bolts.
8.1. Clean the bolt threads of all the original thread locking compound.
8.2. Clean the threads of the bolt with denatured alcohol or equivalent and allow to dry.
8.3. Apply Threadlocker, GM P/N 89021297 (In Canada, use P/N 10953488).
9. Install the body mount bolts.

Tighten
For 2003, 2004 and 2005 model year, tighten the bolts to 85 N·m (63 lb ft).

Tighten
For 2006-2008 model year, tighten the bolts to 100 N·m (74 lb ft).
10. Reinstall the intermediate park brake cable (left side only).

The part looks like a giant nylon fender washer. I hope it helps.

 

[BigE]

Make sure to check your torsion bar crossmember bushings as well.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Thanks for pointers! My email went down and I wasn't able to get the notifications until now. I may have found it!

I was so annoyed I took the tire off AGAIN for the millionth time. I was going to see if maybe my axle was loose. I first pulled hard in and out on the tie rod. And low and behold I have a VERY MINUTE amount of play in the tie rod. There is definitely play though.

I'm super amazed though. Long story but ALL the factory ball joints survived w/o issue except this one. Really amazed by that. They've gotten very good at making these things, especially considering much of this vehicles life was off road.

I will do both sides & both ends despite only inner driver side is bad. I'll save the extra good / complete tierod for a spare offroad. I bought these new brand MovTech off RockAuto, with Moog inners. This movetech is made in Canada and wanted to give it a try. It seems to be highly recommended. I'm starting to have troubles with Moog. I think they make some of their stuff in China now?

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

I believe the problem is solved Have to go for a spin on some forest service roads to see for sure.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Mission accomplished no more clunks Tie rods don't look half bad either!

 

[corvette744]

Thanks for pointers! My email went down and I wasn't able to get the notifications until now. I may have found it!

I was so annoyed I took the tire off AGAIN for the millionth time. I was going to see if maybe my axle was loose. I first pulled hard in and out on the tie rod. And low and behold I have a VERY MINUTE amount of play in the tie rod. There is definitely play though.

I'm super amazed though. Long story but ALL the factory ball joints survived w/o issue except this one. Really amazed by that. They've gotten very good at making these things, especially considering much of this vehicles life was off road.

I will do both sides & both ends despite only inner driver side is bad. I'll save the extra good / complete tierod for a spare offroad. I bought these new brand MovTech off RockAuto, with Moog inners. This movetech is made in Canada and wanted to give it a try. It seems to be highly recommended. I'm starting to have troubles with Moog. I think they make some of their stuff in China now?

Whats the part numbers for the inner and outer that you used.

 

[OR VietVet]

Glad it is fixed. My guess was going to be something at the steering gear mount on the frame or crack at the mount area on the frame.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Whats the part numbers for the inner and outer that you used.

Sorry, for late reply. For some reason I'm not getting email notifications from the forum anymore.

Moog ES3488
MOVETECH TXES3493T

FYI ~ If I had it to do over I'd I'd just buy the Rare Parts HD Tie Rod Assembly. They're $70 more at most than doing the sleeves once you buy all new rods, ends, etc.

H.D. TIE ROD ASSEMBLY

Sold in PairsReplaces Undersize OE assembly 1.000 Diameter Outer Forging eliminates buckling point. Steel on Steel Greasable inner and Outer First to market proven design.WARRANTY INFORMATION AVAILABLE AT RAREPARTS.COM/WARRANTY

shop.rareparts.com

 

[tRidiot]

Sorry, for late reply. For some reason I'm not getting email notifications from the forum anymore.

Moog ES3488
MOVETECH TXES3493T

FYI ~ If I had it to do over I'd I'd just buy the Rare Parts HD Tie Rod Assembly. They're $70 more at most than doing the sleeves once you buy all new rods, ends, etc.

H.D. TIE ROD ASSEMBLY

Sold in PairsReplaces Undersize OE assembly 1.000 Diameter Outer Forging eliminates buckling point. Steel on Steel Greasable inner and Outer First to market proven design.WARRANTY INFORMATION AVAILABLE AT RAREPARTS.COM/WARRANTY

shop.rareparts.com

I'm gonna correct this, as you've been typing MOVETECH and it doesn't come up in searching the forum as I had been doing. When looking for reviews on MEVOTECH stuff. Maybe this will bring some people here to this thread if they search MEVOTECH, I found one about their control arms/ball joints when I was looking and they did very poorly for someone here.

Once again, just correcting for MEVOTECH not MOVETECH simply for search purposes for others.