Converter

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NickTransmissions

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Yeah it’s my Yukon so there’s a bit of weight and AWD. You’ll have to forgive me but transmissions and stalls and what not are something I know nothing about.
No worries on that, trans and converter operation/function can be a black box for folks beyond just a basic understanding of how those things work.

The main factors to consider when choosing a stall speed if going with something other than stock, including but not always limited to:

1) cam grind (specifically lift/duration) - call your cam manufacturer as they will provide recommendations for stall speed range
2) final drive ratio (your front/rear diff ratio)
3) Vehicle weight and tire diameter (thanks, @iamdub !)
4) Vehicle application (towing, hauling vehicles, converter stalls will be much lower than stall speeds used in racing/street strip applications as an example)

Converter performs two primary functions:
a) torque multiplier
b) fluid coupler

High level explanation: The converter acts primarily as a torque multiplier earlier on in the RPM curve then at a given rpm speed it will achieve full fluid coupling with the engine. This rpm speed is the converter’s stall speed. The higher the stall, the more torque multiplication occurs before fluid coupling, hence the more overall engine torque is able to be utilized, all other things equal.

Related tidbit: Back in the day, the act of converter achiving full coupling was referred to as “lock up” however this should not to be confused with the term “lock up” used when discussing converters designed with a clutch today as those weren’t in widespread use until the 80s.

Im out of town atm but sometime after I get back, I will probably do a video explaining converter function, show the parts inside a converter that determine stall speed, what info to use when trying to determine optimal stall speed range in relation to the rest of the factors mentioned above.
 
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Sam Harris

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1000 lbs lighter. not a whole lot lighter really. once your up to 4300 its a pig, internets says my 05 hoe is 5300. tank of gas 8lbs x18 adds up fast. im huge at 260 lbs. i cant say im a fat ass really. im 6'6 lol
I’m sitting at 5800 with my fat ass in it.. what year is your Camaro? I figured they were closer to 3800.
 

iamdub

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Yeah it’s my Yukon so there’s a bit of weight and AWD. You’ll have to forgive me but transmissions and stalls and what not are something I know nothing about.

It's all good! This is why you ask the pros that design and build them. Recommended stall speeds are one of those topics that are very subjective and you'll get 100 different answers from 100 different people. The stall speed and other converter characteristics should be tailored to complement the system as a whole.
 

Scottydoggs

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I’m sitting at 5800 with my fat ass in it.. what year is your Camaro? I figured they were closer to 3800.
its a 13 2ss rs 6 speed auto, so its the pig with all the options there are, other then a moon roof. went out of my way to find one with out it. adds a few inches of head room, that i desperately need. if them factory RS 20 inch wheels are a oz under 50 lbs each id be really surprised too. like boat anchors. my drag radial wheels are 20 lbs. the drs felt like air. 10 lbs tops. so like 30 lbs a dr and wheel. the difference is night and day how much more the stockers weigh.
 

Mudsport96

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its a 13 2ss rs 6 speed auto, so its the pig with all the options there are, other then a moon roof. went out of my way to find one with out it. adds a few inches of head room, that i desperately need. if them factory RS 20 inch wheels are a oz under 50 lbs each id be really surprised too. like boat anchors. my drag radial wheels are 20 lbs. the drs felt like air. 10 lbs tops. so like 30 lbs a dr and wheel. the difference is night and day how much more the stockers weigh.
A 6L80 is going to need a completely different converter than a 4L60E. Far different gear ratios for one. And it probably needs the higher stall to help that cliff dive of a gear spread from first gears 4.02 to seconds 2.36. It is only 4% worse than a 60e 1-2 gear change...but why make it worse GM.

Hell the 80e has a better 1-2 ratio than the 6L80, it just has a crap 1st gear lol.
 

RAMurphy

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No worries on that, trans and converter operation/function can be a black box for folks beyond just a basic understanding of how those things work.

The main factors to consider when choosing a stall speed if going with something other than stock, including but not always limited to:

1) cam grind (specifically lift/duration) - call your cam manufacturer as they will provide recommendations for stall speed range
2) final drive ratio (your front/rear diff ratio)
3) Vehicle weight and tire diameter (thanks, @iamdub !)
4) Vehicle application (towing, hauling vehicles, converter stalls will be much lower than stall speeds used in racing/street strip applications as an example)

Converter performs two primary functions:
a) torque multiplier
b) fluid coupler

High level explanation: The converter acts primarily as a torque multiplier earlier on in the RPM curve then at a given rpm speed it will achieve full fluid coupling with the engine. This rpm speed is the converter’s stall speed. The higher the stall, the more torque multiplication occurs before fluid coupling, hence the more overall engine torque is able to be utilized, all other things equal.

Related tidbit: Back in the day, the act of converter achiving full coupling was referred to as “lock up” however this should not to be confused with the term “lock up” used when discussing converters designed with a clutch today as those weren’t in widespread use until the 80s.

Im out of town atm but sometime after I get back, I will probably do a video explaining converter function, show the parts inside a converter that determine stall speed, what info to use when trying to determine optimal stall speed range in relation to the rest of the factors mentioned above.
I, and I'm sure others, would absolutely appreciate this type of information/video.
 

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