Crankshaft Pulley, Seal, Bolt - Replace

[iamdub]

I used the arp on my C5 and my Denali...
The torque required for a factory spec is stupid...
I felt a lot better just threading the ARP into the crank snout with
some loctite at ( i think) 110 lb ft... Whatever arp said to do..
The GM wants tons of torque then add the degrees ... I just didnt' want to
take any chances in fuc&in up the crank threads since both were still in the cars
Don't care too much about "reuseble" as $35 is really not even a drop in the bucket
if you have to pull out an engine to do major work

I actually like the TTY design. For one, it's more accurate. There are more variables with standard torque values due to the wrench being used, how it's being used and even temperature. It's not as critical with the crank bolt. But, with the TTY head bolts, it's more accurate. That initial 22 ft lbs. is low enough that most any half-decent torque wrench will be spot-on or close enough. The operator isn't struggling to apply it so there's much less chance of over-torquing. Then, for the final tightening, X degrees is X degrees. It removes the other variables. The other factor is shock absorption. Not a thing in a stock or even significantly modified engines. But, to an extent, they can even save an engine in a high boost situation.