cv shaft moves

[alc5m]

So when i jack my front end up, i can grab the wheel at 3 and 9 and move the wheel back and forth, upon doing this, i can see the cv shaft moving in and out

this would be a bad hub assembly correct?

i just want to make sure this is the issue before spending the money on it

and i know the spindle nut is on tight cause its showing about the same amt of threads as the other side, but originally when we put the new shafts in, it didnt get tightened enough, but as i said, im just trying to make sure this is the hub

thanks

 

[SunlitComet]

what part specifically is moving in and out and from what?

 

[alc5m]

sorry, on the inside of the wheel i can see the part of the cv shaft that goes into the hub assembly next to the boot moving in and out with the wheel

 

[SunlitComet]

If I understand you correctly the outer joint is secure thru the hub and wheel assembly but that joint moves off and on the shaft going into it.

The outer joint is a Rzeppa joint which basically handles angular movement and typically does not have plunge(in and out) play. if it is moving in and out there then it should be opened for inspection or replacement.

The inner is a tripod joint which deal in all shaft in and out movement. Lot of normal plunge play there with suspension travel.

If either boot is torn well then you now what is wrong.

 

[alc5m]

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

so by the abs toner ring there on the outside of that is what i see moving when i shift the wheel while its in the air

so that means the outer joint is bad on the boot and not the hub?

last i looked it didnt seem the boots were broke, i mean they are only 4 months old or so

 

[SunlitComet]

you talking about the nut with cotter pin? That would be the upper ball joint if so buy only MOOG parts for it. If you are saying that ring moves independently of the rest of steering knuckle then your hub bearing or axle nut is no good and coming loose.
Or maybe boot clamp perhaps. Perhaps you could draw on the picture or something we can easily see what you mean.

 

[alc5m]

the hub bearing was my original thought

and yes thats what i meant is it moves independantly, kinda hard to explain without being able to jack the truck up and move it in person, i was thinking of making a video but i dont have anyone to help with that ie holding my phone while i move the wheel, lol

but no, everything besides the hubs, the steering gear box and the sway bar have been replaced recently and idk if you looked close at that picture, but when i put the ball joints in and put the new cvs in, on both sides the stud of the upper ball joint ground down the toner ring

but my original thought was the bearing, but since its a sealed unit i need the whole assembly correct?

 

[SunlitComet]

I had noticed the physical damage. If it was the hub bearing you just replace the whole hub. And replace that shaft nut this time as well. Do you need procedures?

 

[alc5m]

umm how long does it take before those pics change? cause i mean i can still get them tonight but im running between my computer and other shit

but yeah toss the procedure up i spose

and also if you have one to replace a 1999 buick lesabre hub as well? i assume its pretty close but you never know, lol

 

[SunlitComet]

up in a few minutes.

---------- Post added at 09:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:58 PM ----------

Hub, Bearing, and Seal Replacement FRONT HUB/BEARING

• Tool Required:
• J 36607 Ball Joint Separator
• J 36605 Steering Knuckle Seal Installer
• Or Equivalents

REMOVAL

NOTE: Raise the vehicle and support with suitable safety stands.

Remove or disconnect the following:

1. Tire and wheel assembly.

• 1. Wrap shop towels around both the inner and outer ON joint boots to avoid damage to the boots during removal and installation.

1. Brake caliper. NOTE: Support the caliper with a piece of wire to prevent damage to the brake line.
2. Brake rotor.
3. Drive axle (halfshaft) nut (120).
4. Washer (119).
5. Tie rod nut (124).
6. Tie rod end from the knuckle (117).
7. Hub and bearing assembly (114), using a puller. NOTE: Lay the hub and bearing assembly on the hub bolt (outboard) side. This will prevent damage or contamination of the bearing seal.
8. Drive axle (halfshaft).
9. Splash shield bolts (128).
10. Splash shield (118).

• 1. Support the lower control arm with a jack stand.

1. Upper ball joint nut.

13. Upper ball joint (115) from the knuckle (117). Using J 3660 7.

1. Lower ball joint nut.

15. Lower ball joint (127) from the knuckle (117). Using J 3660 7.

1. Knuckle (117).
2. Seal from the knuckle.

INSTALLATION

CAUTION: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion Inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.

Install or connect the following:

1. Seal (126) into the knuckle (117) using J 36605.
2. Knuckle (117) to the upper and lower bail joints (115 and 127).
3. Nuts (129).

• • Tighten
  • Lower stud nut (129) to 128 Nm (94 ft. lbs.) .
  • Upper stud nut (129) to 100 Nm (74 ft. lbs.) .
  • Tighten the nuts to align the cotter pin. Do not tighten more than 1/6 turn.

1. New cotter pins. Bend the pin ends against the nut.
2. Splash shield (118). Be sure the splash shield is aligned properly.
3. Splash shield bolts (128).

• • Tighten
  • Bolts (128) to 26 Nm (19 ft. lbs.) .
  • Prelube steering knuckle-seal.

1. Drive axle (halfshaft).
2. Hub and bearing assembly (114). Align the threaded holes.
3. Bolts (116). Tighten (116) to 180 Nm (133 ft. lbs.) .
4. Tie rod end (125) to the knuckle (117).
5. Tie rod nut (124). Tighten (124) to 48 Nm (35 ft. lbs.) .
6. Washer (119).
7. Nut (120). Tighten (120) to 225 Nm (165 ft. lbs.) .
8. Brake rotor.
9. Brake caliper.
10. Tire and wheel assembly.

• • Remove the jack stand.
  • Lower the vehicle.
  • Check vehicle trim height, and adjust if necessary.

---------- Post added at 09:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:00 PM ----------

for a lesabre from autozone.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/re...epairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f8038fb1e