Cylinder head recommendation

[east302]

My son’s truck (98 K1500) has a cracked head. I haven’t pulled the second one, but assume it’s not far behind so I plan on doing both.

Any recommendations for a replacement? I don’t want to break the bank on a teenager’s truck (say $1,000 per head) but am leery of the reman heads that sell for $350 each since you usually get what you pay for.

I’m not opposed to buying just the head and installing everything in it, but would rather just buy the whole thing ready to go. I see some reviews of budget Summit, etc. heads saying that they had to be machined flat before use which I think defeats the point of a buying a pre-assembled head.

 

[exp500]

Give Scoggin Dickey a call. I'm pretty sure they still do quality remans, even if not listed. Always been happy with purchases from them or Air Flow Research. Good Luck.

 

[east302]

Thanks, I appreciate it.

I’ve gotten kind of jaded with aftermarket parts.

 

[Eman85]

I haven't priced them lately but factory Vortec heads complete weren't that expensive,

 

[east302]

Can the stock rocker arm nuts be reused (1998 350)? I’d expect that they’ve never been off before. I can get them on by hand no more than 1/4 turn without using a ratchet.

Finally getting this thing put back together.

 

[Eman85]

The original nuts should be fine, they're self locking as the tops are made to bind on the threads.

 

[exp500]

I still prefer adjusting valves with engine running. Clipons or clothepins or cut down valve covers reduce the mess.

 

[east302]

Thanks, I’ll keep that in mind. I’ve got them set for now, but still have the rest of the intake, etc. to put back on along with some other things that needed addressing.

Given my work pace, it should be ready to start in 2024.

 

[Eman85]

I haven't adjusted valves with the engine running in 40 years. If you adjust them cold spinning the pushrod between your fingers using the EOIC method you will never have a problem.

 

[east302]

Does this look right for TDC compression on #1 before setting the CMP offset?

It’s the first time that I’ve ever set one after moving the crank. It’s pointing more toward three than one, so I’m second-guessing things but the manual says it should hit the #8 mark which it does.

What do y’all think?





The rotor moves maybe a couple degrees from the #8 mark when the housing is turned:



And here is the other extreme which better aligns with the #1 post on the cap.