DOD delete but keep VVT?

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ckeister

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So it is looking more and more like the cam bearings are toast or got one starting to walk out in our 07 Denali. From my reasearch and understanding, our rig has all the DOD components but DOD is not tuned into the ECM. Not matter the end result whether we can just get away with replacing cam bearings, up to full rebuild, if it is the cam bearings, the DOD components are coming out.

We live in California so I don't think I can eliminate the VVT and still pass smog. Has anyone done a DOD delete but kept the VVT? If so would like to hear your experiences.

Thanks
 

donjetman

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So it is looking more and more like the cam bearings are toast or got one starting to walk out in our 07 Denali. From my reasearch and understanding, our rig has all the DOD components but DOD is not tuned into the ECM. Not matter the end result whether we can just get away with replacing cam bearings, up to full rebuild, if it is the cam bearings, the DOD components are coming out.

We live in California so I don't think I can eliminate the VVT and still pass smog. Has anyone done a DOD delete but kept the VVT? If so would like to hear your experiences.

Thanks
So you have determined its an early L92? with smooth VLOM, etc.
Only the early production L92's had AFM hardware, built prior to April 1, 2006. These early L92s were built with AFM Hardware but the AFM system was disabled.
 

Marky Dissod

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So it is looking more and more like the cam bearings are toast or got one starting to walk out in our 07 Denali.
From my research and understanding, our rig has all the DOD components but DOD is not tuned into the ECM.
No matter the end result whether we can just get away with replacing cam bearings, up to full rebuild, if it is the cam bearings, the DOD components are coming out.
Engine Half@$$ subroutine was left UNenabled in the ecm. Engine Half@$$ hardware should come out, no matter what.
We live in California, so I don't think I can eliminate the VVT and still pass smog.
What's the reasoning behind this thought? Even if CA can visually detect that it was PHYSICALLY removed from the engine,
CA has no way of detecting whether or not the VVT subroutine has been disabled.
I've been over this many times: CA cannot download your tune off the ecm / tcm when they do an emissions test.
CA can only detect checksums and checksum verification numbers, both of which remain unchanged if the tune was written PROPERLY.

If, due to disabling VVT, the engine no longer passes a butt sniff test,
that in and of itself does not conclusively prove the VVT was disabled or deleted.
Has anyone done a DOD delete, but kept the VVT? If so would like to hear your experiences.
Although I haven't done it myself, it's easy enough to physically limit the VVT from INSIDE.
Obviously the tune would need to 'agree' with any hardware changes.
Sorry, no experience myself, but it's accepted that there are VVT cams that don't retard/advance as much as GM OE;
those cams need VVT limiting hardware to operate properly, and the tune needs its VVT subroutines edited accordingly.
So hardware that locks VVT in a fixed position, without removing VVT, would function the same as removing VVT,
if the VVT function were effectively disabled in the ecm as well.
 

donjetman

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So you have determined its an early L92? with smooth VLOM, etc.
Only the early production L92's had AFM hardware, built prior to April 1, 2006. These early L92s were built with AFM Hardware but the AFM system was disabled.
how many miles on your ole lifters?
 
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ckeister

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So you have determined its an early L92? with smooth VLOM, etc.
Only the early production L92's had AFM hardware, built prior to April 1, 2006. These early L92s were built with AFM Hardware but the AFM system was disabled.
Vlom is not flat, has the raised vein looking things so DOD soleniods are there. Production date sticker is worn off so dont know production date. My understanding is DOD not in the tune of 2007 model year. Never driven a dod vehicle but i would imagine I would be able to tell if it had.
 
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ckeister

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Engine Half@$$ subroutine was left UNenabled in the ecm. Engine Half@$$ hardware should come out, no matter what.

What's the reasoning behind this thought? Even if CA can visually detect that it was PHYSICALLY removed from the engine,
CA has no way of detecting whether or not the VVT subroutine has been disabled.
I've been over this many times: CA cannot download your tune off the ecm / tcm when they do an emissions test.
CA can only detect checksums and checksum verification numbers, both of which remain unchanged if the tune was written PROPERLY.

If, due to disabling VVT, the engine no longer passes a butt sniff test,
that in and of itself does not conclusively prove the VVT was disabled or deleted.

Although I haven't done it myself, it's easy enough to physically limit the VVT from INSIDE.
Obviously the tune would need to 'agree' with any hardware changes.
Sorry, no experience myself, but it's accepted that there are VVT cams that don't retard/advance as much as GM OE;
those cams need VVT limiting hardware to operate properly, and the tune needs its VVT subroutines edited accordingly.
So hardware that locks VVT in a fixed position, without removing VVT, would function the same as removing VVT,
if the VVT function were effectively disabled in the ecm as well.
You know more than i about the subject. We have an unbelievable amount of shenannigans going on in our great state. We live in a county that only requires smog when you bring a new car into the county. Unfortunately, a new law has been passed banning these decisions by individual counties and a new state run smog program is supposed to take affect this year. Don't think they have their shit together to impliment it this year but we shall see.

As for keeping the VVT, I imagine it would help with the fuel mileage which aint great at 12MPG. I don't want to try and get to fancy with this as im still learning the platform so I am leaning toward just stock factory non DOD cam and lifters.
 

donjetman

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Vlom is not flat, has the raised vein looking things so DOD soleniods are there. Production date sticker is worn off so dont know production date. My understanding is DOD not in the tune of 2007 model year. Never driven a dod vehicle but i would imagine I would be able to tell if it had.
Okay, getting rid of the hardware will increase the vehicle reliability :)
 
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ckeister

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So here's how it has gone since purchase. After I noticed the oil pressure situation I did an immediate oil change with Amsoil 5-30 and Amsoil filter. Got a slight improvement. Didn't cut open the filter like a dummy. Put about 5K than another oil change. Stayed pretty consistent and like I said no alarms have gone off in the dash. Factory specs say idle oil pressure can be as low as 6 PSI which I think is ******** but.....

While doing routine stuff like changing belts hoses tentioners, fluid changes, etc. I found an old screen that goes under the pressure sender stuck between some shit in the engine compartment where someone dropped it so knew the sender had been changed at least once.

About this time last year, I broke my ankle real bad and was laid up for 12 weeks with another 12 weeks of PT. During that time, the ignition switch took a shit so I sent it to a mechanic and told him about the pressure issue. He changed the pressure switch again (put in a NAPA unit) and told me it was the o-ring and when you do that job ou just do the pump at the same time quoted me $2500. I asked him if he put a mechanical guage in to test actual pressure, nope just guessed and changed parts. Ok I'll pass and wait until I recover to do it myself, thanks.

Another 5K on the clock so went to do the job. Put a mechanical guage on the port comming off the oil pump. Never went below 37 PSI at the pump (Take note cuz this is the beginning of my head scratching) but had a consistent 15 PSI difference through out the RPM band. First big red flag.

Pulled the pan and has some metal shavings but nothing that was super obvious or concerning. Pulled a couple rod bearings, they looked good. Did a visual of the cam bearings and there was no obvious walk out on them. Should of cut the oil filter open I know but was wanting to get the job done. Replaced the pick up tube and O-ring with a Melling unit. The o-ring was **** eyed a little on the tube and flattened out a bit but not split. Slapped it back together, filled it up and ran it again.

Now here is where things start getting wierd. Picked up about 10 PSI on the cold start and about had a more consistent reading between the mechanical guage and the dash and hot idle went from 6-8 lbs up to 15-18lbs. Now the mechanical guage and dash were reading the same. What happened to my 37 lbs out of the pump at idle? Stuck relief valve in the pump im thinking.

Since I hadn't put the front differential back in, I went ahead and ordered a melling 365HV. Timing chain is nice and tight but while im here I said screw it and replaced the cam plate, VVT solenoid, timing chain tentioner, and couple other things that I know are prone to go out and much easier to change with the front diff out.

Back together it goes, and no improvement. In fact the 15 lbs of pressure variance came back abouve 2500 RPM but not improvement at idle 15-18. Additionally I have an intermittent fluttering on both guages (2nd big red flag)

Wife drives it to the store an back, maybe 20 miles round trip. Comes back and says the guage in the dash is back down to just above the red mark which was where it sat when it was running 6-8lbs. All that work FML....lol

So we go for a nice evening drive and put about 50 miles on it. The entire time I had at least 10LBS per 1000RPM throughout the the RPM range.....for the first part of the trip. On the way back home pressure keeps getting slightly worse,do a couple of hard accelerations and loose that 10 lbs per 1000 RPM at 3500-4000 RPM (Third big red flag).

Going up the mountain almost home and it starts losing power, less oil pressure to the point I get a check engine light 5 minutes from home. Once home and idling pressure is lower than ever even appearing to slightly go into the red, but again no dash warning. Plug the code reader and get p0011. Damn it.

Cleared the code and drove it around the next day about 10-15 miles code hasnt come back. I'm confident I didn't F anything up with the timing. Marks all lined up fine. I don't thing its the O-ring because I pulled the dipstick and no air bubbles on the stick.

So here is where I stand. I think either I have smoked cam bearing or one beginning to walk out or both. Only thing that makes sense in my head. No lifter noise, seems to run fine, and no misfire codes have popped up.
 

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