Dreaded p1345

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

DallasTahoe

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2012
Posts
711
Reaction score
214
I've been searching and reading other posts, my Yukon doesn't run bad, but the a@&hole before me took out the bulb for the check engine light. So I put a new bulb in it then Took it to autozone to pull codes it has the p1345 camshaft to crankshaft position correlation malfunction. It has a new crank sensor, and I swapped a cam sensor for one I know works, off of my other tahoe(same year, engine, etc.) and cleaned the cap and rotor which are new, also cleaned the metal piece that feeds the cam sensor it's info. Did the timing trick with the hole in the dist cap because I don't have a scanner to do it properly, and everything seems good, but the ses light is still on. I read something about a drive cycle, needing to be done before the light goes off, but I also read that the light should go off as soon as the "timing" is correct, which is true and am I missing something?????


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

SunlitComet

OBS Jedi-Do Good
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Posts
16,206
Reaction score
188
Location
unknown at this time.
drive cycle does not apply here if the code is active. a drive trip does. if cleared it will kill the light after three drive trips.
 
OP
OP
DallasTahoe

DallasTahoe

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2012
Posts
711
Reaction score
214
So how far and long should I drive it for? I thought disconnecting the battery for a few minutes would clear that code?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
OP
OP
DallasTahoe

DallasTahoe

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2012
Posts
711
Reaction score
214
Ok so I let it sit for a few minutes, I started it a couple of times and after this last start the SES light went off, so I'm good now! Thanks for the help SunlitComet!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
OP
OP
DallasTahoe

DallasTahoe

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2012
Posts
711
Reaction score
214
Well 1345 came back. I put my heads on and put everything together, it was running rough and I tried to adjust the timing with my distributor cap with the hole in it to see the spark at over 1100rpm. Had to pull the dizzy and move it one tooth because I couldn't adjust it anymore because the cap was up against the intake, Got it set ran better but now it's throwing p1345, has low power on hills and stumbles at stoplights, it actually died once. But otherwise runs good, should I try to reset the dizzy?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

SUBURBIAN

All Chevy
Joined
Mar 18, 2016
Posts
177
Reaction score
69
This isn't all that "dreaded". I'd consider a P0300 to be "dreaded". This is simple. You just need to have the distributor phased the right way, with a Tech 2 or equivalent and then your problem isn't a problem any more.
 
OP
OP
DallasTahoe

DallasTahoe

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2012
Posts
711
Reaction score
214
So I took out the dizzy, followed the instructions you supplied to a tee, still stumbles when taking off hard not so much when easing into it, no SES light, yet, lol. Runs decent but I guess I can't expect too much until I get the cam retard set right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Forum statistics

Threads
132,737
Posts
1,873,411
Members
97,565
Latest member
Champ74
Top