B town fernie
TYF Newbie
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- Jul 18, 2012
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I have a 2 wheel drive and it does the same thing after i release the brake pedal. Dont know what it is?
Drive line CLUNK and FIX!!!
- Thread starter 19992dr4x4
- Start date
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I just did this, after a bit of a problem, I'm all done and the nickel slip yoke works great. You don't want to keep greasing your yoke, the grease will degrade your fluid over time plus its a PITA to keep doing it. I ordered the wrong one from gm parts direct, the one that ends with 702 I believe, is for a ext cab 4 WD, they wouldn't take it back so now I have a 200 dollar paperweight until I find someone who could use it. The shipping also was expensive and took forever. I ordered the correct one for our trucks from drive train America.com, the part # is 40032054. I just installed it and it fits great and they were very quick with the shipping, only cost 115 bucks as well. Highly recommend them. First time I ever changed a u joint and it went really well. If you are on the fence, DO IT! It really is worth it.
GA_Boy
TYF Newbie
So the one you purchased fits and works on a 99 OBS 4 door 4x4? Also I guess I need to look under my tahoe and figure out which tranny I have.
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
if gasoline engine then 4l60e. if diesel then 4l80e.
speedblurr
TYF Newbie
Hello all, new here. I had this same problem with the clunk. I changed the u joint and a buddy at the Chevy dealer gave me the grease for the slip yoke. It is Steelco Industrial Lubricants Inc. 488-1 Red Crown Lubricant. And it does wonders. Just wanted to share it with yas.
Edit: Take a minute and google this stuff, its pretty wicked thick.
Edit: Take a minute and google this stuff, its pretty wicked thick.
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The problem is that the grease eventually wears away and you keep doing it every few months. I used Green Marine Grade grease, highly recommended by everyone and the thickest stickiest crap I've ever seen. That worn out grease mixes with your fluid and breaks that down, then your left with a burnt out tranny or transfer case depending on your application. That's why I went with the permanent fix. Oh BTW, I guess it's a good update time, is still smooth as silk. After I changed out the yoke, I switched out the fluid for fresh GM blue. 
Good luck!
Good luck!
speedblurr
TYF Newbie
Well I suppose everyone will have different results, as I changed u joints and greased the yoke going on 2 yrs now, no clunk and no breakdown of this grease. It makes honey look like water. And for the record, this isn't the grease they originally started using, it was upgraded after they had problems with the old stuff breaking down.
96redsport
Full Access Member
Had my tahoe since 2001 and never had a problem until I changed my U-joint last year. Still haven't got a round to grease the yoke yet and winter in the N.E. seems to be going on forever this year... :/
I don't disagree, I think it varies between every truck. All you are doing is filling in the slack between the contact points of the shaft and yoke, so one might be more worn than another. My original had 125,000 miles. I'm glad your grease worked out, if I end up with another gm full size I will probably give it a shot. However, I'm just saying if you find it only lasting temporarily, then repeatedly greasing it will eventually cause damage, and I would suggest replacing with the nickel yoke.
---------- Post added at 01:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:12 PM ----------
96redsport, I'm from around Pittsburgh so I feel your pain as I don't have a garage to work on. To grease, it really only takes 20 mins, and I'm no professional mechanic and all I have is ramps. All you need is a 7/16 wrench and a big screwdriver or something to free up the joint from the rearend and pull it straight out. Stuff some grease in the slipyoke, slide it back in , set the ujoint back in and tighten back up.
---------- Post added at 01:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:12 PM ----------
96redsport, I'm from around Pittsburgh so I feel your pain as I don't have a garage to work on. To grease, it really only takes 20 mins, and I'm no professional mechanic and all I have is ramps. All you need is a 7/16 wrench and a big screwdriver or something to free up the joint from the rearend and pull it straight out. Stuff some grease in the slipyoke, slide it back in , set the ujoint back in and tighten back up.
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