Drivers side motor mount replacement.

[mudd]

Unfortunately I haven't had time and probably wont for a few more weeks. I have looked it over pretty good. Im planning to pull the steering shaft, also planning to pull the bracket for the alternator and the power steering pump taking out the power steering pump with it. I plan on using one of the holes from that to lift from. that gives me 7" of clearance to put the new mount in. The mount itself measures 7" at its widest point so it should go in. I also plan to replace the power steering pump and both lines while Im at it. both lines are weeping a little fluid so I plan to change them anyway.

here is a vid showing how to pull the power steering pump . note that on the 6.2 you wont have to pull the fan or shroud.

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...&mid=6C309F784C1321E75C836C309F784C1321E75C83

Also: I looking at jacking it up from the bell housing with a floor jack and that looks like it would be tough as the sway bar runs right under it.

 

[hosseface]

We just did one (drivers side) at the shop today. It took 1.5 hours with a lift, LOTS of tools and a professional mechanic.

No wheel removal, no inner fender removal, NO exhaust manifold removal (lol at that). We took the front driveshaft out and it came right out the back. 07+Denali.

DO NOT BUY AN ANCHOR MOUNT!!!! THEY ARE JUNK!!!! You will be changing it again within 90 days.

Buy a FACTORY GM MOUNT!!

 

[BLCKSTRM]

We just did one (drivers side) at the shop today. It took 1.5 hours with a lift, LOTS of tools and a professional mechanic.

No wheel removal, no inner fender removal, NO exhaust manifold removal (lol at that). We took the front driveshaft out and it came right out the back. 07+Denali.

DO NOT BUY AN ANCHOR MOUNT!!!! THEY ARE JUNK!!!! You will be changing it again within 90 days.

Buy a FACTORY GM MOUNT!!

I paid to have mine replaced in July '15 and just had to do the driver side again last night. ABSOLUTELY BUY A GM MOUNT!

It took me about 4 hours in my driveway last night. I did not drop anything.

I supported the engine from the top, pulled the fender liner, and took the manifold shield and the suspension height sensor off.

I could get the mount loose, but not out - until I realized you can take the mount apart! Two nuts on top, and the block mounting plate and the heat shield came off. Slipped right out!

Disassembled the new one, put the parts in the cavity, and put it back together. Took a bit of gyrating to get it in - felt like I was solving a Rubik's cube.

Buy it was light years easier than dropping the diff.

Why hasn't anyone ever suggested this before?

 

[22YukonDenali22]

I paid to have mine replaced in July '15 and just had to do the driver side again last night. ABSOLUTELY BUY A GM MOUNT!

It took me about 4 hours in my driveway last night. I did not drop anything.

I supported the engine from the top, pulled the fender liner, and took the manifold shield and the suspension height sensor off.

I could get the mount loose, but not out - until I realized you can take the mount apart! Two nuts on top, and the block mounting plate and the heat shield came off. Slipped right out!

Disassembled the new one, put the parts in the cavity, and put it back together. Took a bit of gyrating to get it in - felt like I was solving a Rubik's cube.

Buy it was light years easier than dropping the diff.

Why hasn't anyone ever suggested this before?

Old thread, I know... But how did you support the engine from the top? Did you need a hoist?

Thanks!

Kevin

 

[the_tool_man]

I'm getting ready to do this, hopefully this weekend. I've probably looked at over ten YT videos, all of which are different. My Denali is AWD, which complicates this, as access from below is pretty much nonexistent. I'm replacing both sides with H3 mounts so I won't have to do this again. I had one shop quote the job. It was just less than $1000.

If I were just replacing the mounts, my strategy would be as follows:

Remove engine cover to allow more room for lifting engine.

Driver side - remove steering shaft. Unbolt mount. Lift engine. Remove mount. Reverse steps to reassemble.

Passenger side - remove fender liner, oil dipstick tube and starter. Unbolt mount. Lift engine. Remove mount. Reverse to reassemble.

From what I've seen, attempting to replace both mounts at once is actually harder, because you don't get the benefit of rotating the engine over when you leave one side attached. It necessitates having to remove other stuff, or disassembling the mount to RnR it. So as stated, I plan to do each side in sequence.

Complicating my situation is that I have at least one broken exhaust manifold bolt. I'm replacing all of them with ARP hardware. So I'll likely remove both front wheels and fender liners to gain better access for that. I'm hoping that if I remove the passenger side exhaust manifold, I don't have to remove the starter to get the motor mount out. But I don't know that for sure. All I know for sure is that I'm not looking forward to this. But if it saves me a grand, I'm going to give it a shot.

 

[Meccanoble]

There are multiple videos that help. I replaced mine twice without removing axle nor the steering column. You take them out through driver wheel well. It is extremely tight and frustrating but doable without removing anything other than the wheel well cover. Make sure you get H3 Hummer mounts or you will be back down there in a few thousand miles. Ask me how i know....

 

[John H Daniel]

Just did the drivers side on my Denali. Was easier than I expected but I had plenty of time. I removed the steering shaft. With it jacked up and the splash plate removed, you can almost sit up in the space between engine and radiator, lol.
Bolts are hard to get to, had to go buy more swivel extensions. I ended up removing left front tire and height sensor to see what was happening and get to lower rear engine to mount bolt.
As folks said, watch Youtube. watch a few of them as each helps a little.

 

[1BADI5]

Yeah the book time in Mitchell for both motor mounts (AWD/4wd) is 7.9 hours if I remember right. I did mine in about 2 hours

 

[the_tool_man]

Of all the ones I watched, I think this guy's video (of driver side) made the most sense:

There are probably four ways to do the driver side. But the others require more work, I think.

Passenger side had even more ways. One guy disassembled the mount and reassembled it in place. While he didn't have to remove as much stuff, it looked a lot harder to snake everything in and out and get it reassembled than other methods. I guess it boils down to what you're comfortable with, and the specifics of your situation. Do you have a lift? Do you have an engine hoist? Are you comfortable jacking on the bottom of the engine? Are you combining this with other work (like broken manifold bolts)?

 

[the_tool_man]

I got my driver side mount replaced yesterday. I had help from a friend with more repair experience and longer arms. We removed the steering shaft and exhaust manifold heat shield. And we had to rip apart the heat shield around the old mount to get at the bolts that held it on the block. We used an engine hoist to get just enough room to snake the old mount out. The new H3 mount is a little smaller and went in easily.