Driveshaft Failure

[67RS427]

I dont know exactly which components are causing the sound but it could be from the yoke and the drive shaft as there is a consistent ticking noise when D is engaged followed by a grinding noise upon slight acceleration.
Ill try to get a video up by tomorrow, the sound is very prominent it may help figuring this out. Thanks for the support.

Alright, thanks @swathdiver for tagging me here... I'd hate to see members pay for parts they don't need. Never have I ever hear a driveshaft "tick". They will start to vibrate if 1/2 critical speed is met at certain speeds (vibration at certain RPM). You probably have something else going on. Check the seals and see if the Yokes have excess wear in that area, then check your U Joints (even those don't tick, maybe if they were not greased that tick could be the joint popping back and forth not so smooth, maybe a needle bad or out of place). You might have a transmission issue or something else happening, but my money is on the U Joints. Driveshafts just don't make ticking sounds.

I ran my stock driveshafts on my supercharged 6.2L making 600-650hp with zero issues hooking up WOT AWD all day every day. The only reason the factory shafts fail is critical speed, which is why many people say don't go over 100mph for sustained amounts of time or the stock one will "explode". I've never had that issue however since I'm making closer to 850-900 hp I opted for new custom shafts made by a shop near me. Shaft Masters in Lincoln Park MI. They did an excellent job and mine should be bullet proof now. Definitely go with solid joints but don't upgrade to a 1350 or anything beefier since you need a week link in the drivetrain somewhere. My new custom 3.5" (.083 wall) Steel shafts (2x of them for AWD) only cost me $693 and the bulk of that cost was 2 new Yokes ($152) and the boot ($22). The shafts were only about $250 each and came with 4 new Solid Dana/Spicer 3R U Joints (similar to a 1330). Critical speed on the shafts is below in the specs but if you take your final transmission gear and max engine RPM, you can see these shafts are good for way more than I'll ever need. Length and angle is what kills these things so your application might be different.

Mark Williams has a good explanation of Critical Speed:
https://www.markwilliams.com/index.php?seo_path=driveshaft-tech

My Shaft Specs (3.5" Rear, 3" Front Steel .083 Wall):

 

[67RS427]

I dont know exactly which components are causing the sound but it could be from the yoke and the drive shaft as there is a consistent ticking noise when D is engaged followed by a grinding noise upon slight acceleration.
Ill try to get a video up by tomorrow, the sound is very prominent it may help figuring this out. Thanks for the support.

I bet you replace the U Joints and that sound will go away...

 

[SteveMansur]

Thank you for all of the information, I highly appreciate the support being offered. I have just begun to understand the ins and outs of driveshafts. I am going to sort out all of the info on my stock shaft and U joints and get back to you with a video, it may help us put this to rest. Unbelievable ammount of support from this community!!

Alright, thanks @swathdiver for tagging me here... I'd hate to see members pay for parts they don't need. Never have I ever hear a driveshaft "tick". They will start to vibrate if 1/2 critical speed is met at certain speeds (vibration at certain RPM). You probably have something else going on. Check the seals and see if the Yokes have excess wear in that area, then check your U Joints (even those don't tick, maybe if they were not greased that tick could be the joint popping back and forth not so smooth, maybe a needle bad or out of place). You might have a transmission issue or something else happening, but my money is on the U Joints. Driveshafts just don't make ticking sounds.

I ran my stock driveshafts on my supercharged 6.2L making 600-650hp with zero issues hooking up WOT AWD all day every day. The only reason the factory shafts fail is critical speed, which is why many people say don't go over 100mph for sustained amounts of time or the stock one will "explode". I've never had that issue however since I'm making closer to 850-900 hp I opted for new custom shafts made by a shop near me. Shaft Masters in Lincoln Park MI. They did an excellent job and mine should be bullet proof now. Definitely go with solid joints but don't upgrade to a 1350 or anything beefier since you need a week link in the drivetrain somewhere. My new custom 3.5" (.083 wall) Steel shafts (2x of them for AWD) only cost me $693 and the bulk of that cost was 2 new Yokes ($152) and the boot ($22). The shafts were only about $250 each and came with 4 new Solid Dana/Spicer 3R U Joints (similar to a 1330). Critical speed on the shafts is below in the specs but if you take your final transmission gear and max engine RPM, you can see these shafts are good for way more than I'll ever need. Length and angle is what kills these things so your application might be different.

Mark Williams has a good explanation of Critical Speed:
https://www.markwilliams.com/index.php?seo_path=driveshaft-tech

My Shaft Specs (3.5" Rear, 3" Front Steel .083 Wall):

View attachment 205994

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[SteveMansur]

I thought the same, pretty sure other use and abuse their trucks more than I do. No I havent pulled it out. Thanks for the input.

if it is your driveshaft then it must be some kind of defect, I drove the literal piss out of my nbs and broke everything but the driveshaft, I assume you have pulled the driveshaft out and verified? a ticking and grinding could be coming from other sources.

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[01ssreda4]

Im gonna say first and easiest thing to do is replace the ujoints with a good named brand non-greasable version. Greased versions are hollow, non are solid and stronger. Try that and go from there. Ujoint sounds radiate through the shaft.

 

[Randy Whistler]

This may be a stupid comment(and probably neither my first or last!) but could it be your front hubs? Mine have a distinctive "tick tick tick" when turning at slower speeds. I have been able to confirm it's my hubs by activating the AWD switch, then returning to 2wd. The noises change when in AWD and return when going back to 2wd.

Of course, if this has already been addressed/discussed, please feel totally free to ignore this post. . .

 

[Doubeleive]

This may be a stupid comment(and probably neither my first or last!) but could it be your front hubs? Mine have a distinctive "tick tick tick" when turning at slower speeds. I have been able to confirm it's my hubs by activating the AWD switch, then returning to 2wd. The noises change when in AWD and return when going back to 2wd.

Of course, if this has already been addressed/discussed, please feel totally free to ignore this post. . .

nevermind...

 

[SteveMansur]

After having the vehicle inspected by 2 independant mechanics as well as my dealer...its confirmed. Twisted the drive shaft ever so slightly the noises are due to torsional stress on the shaft itself which has been weakened. Does anyone know a good aftermarket supplier?

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[Tonyrodz]

After having the vehicle inspected by 2 independant mechanics as well as my dealer...its confirmed. Twisted the drive shaft ever so slightly the noises are due to torsional stress on the shaft itself which has been weakened. Does anyone know a good aftermarket supplier?

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Are you putting out that much power that you twisted the driveshaft? How did you do that?

 

[swathdiver]

After having the vehicle inspected by 2 independant mechanics as well as my dealer...its confirmed. Twisted the drive shaft ever so slightly the noises are due to torsional stress on the shaft itself which has been weakened. Does anyone know a good aftermarket supplier?

See post #4.

So who was power braking the truck? Got any teenagers in the house?