Eliminate Autoride Message light

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2005 Suburban LT

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Can someone help me defeat the Autoride warning message on my 2001 Tahoe LT? I ditched the Autoride system for regular shocks.

Arnott Industries sells a Coil Spring and Shock Conversion kit that includes something called a "Spoofer" that gets wired into the Autoride controller. Does anyone have any experience with it?

Spoofer.gif

Someone just said to pull the RTD fuse. I've heard conflicting reports on whether this works. Is there a sequence to it? I also heard about putting resistors on the Autoride sensor inputs???

Thanks!
Warrlac



Hello just bought a used 2005 Chevrolet Suburban 1500 LT with AirRide

The dealer showed me a receipt from a mechanic that showed he replaced the airlift system with Monro Shocks - had vehicle checked out at Chevy Dealer and the conversion was confirmed and properly installed; however, there is the "Service Ride Control" error in DIC that so many have mentioned here.

My question is which "solution" is best: Remove RTD fuse after removing battery ground for >10 minutes OR to insert a resistor between Blue and White wire after cutting each at the compressor/air release??

I see on YouTube that a resistor can be inserted between the Blue and White wires to the compressor/air release - What is the Resistance Value for this resistor and rating (watts) , in videos it looks like a ceramic type , so must be high wattage rating , or can get from StrutMasters

OR

do the negative battery terminal remove , wait >10 minuted , pull RTD fuse, reconnect and cycle

Only problem I see is that many people have found that other "Issues" appear, lost AC, variable steering lost,exit seat position ???

____

And while I am here, the driver seat heater switch for seat and back do not stay on - they light, but go off ~ 10 seconds later, and no heat in seat or back??? any thoughts


Thank you


I also have a 1996 Chevy 1500 Suburban, and a 1999 GMC Suburban 2500 - but these do not have the AirRide systems.
 

kathy

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2001 Chevy Tahoe LT- disabled it years ago and do not remember how I did it. I used it as a yard ornament when gas prices where so high. I am now driving it a lot due to Honda being down. I want the autoride back because it drives like crap . I am missing a large 30 green fuse underhood that says AIR. Would this be the fuse? The Yukon and chevy fuse boxes are worded differently. Any help would greatly be appreciated . Yes, I can really slap myself for being so stupid. Never turn off something that is working fine and have a bad memory when you do it. Thanks again for any info.
 

alacran

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since I bought the truck it didn't have the rtd fuse. I just lowered it and now get the service ride message.
 

Mr Ma

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What does "properly power cycled "mean ?? Leave the negative unhooked for 10-15 minutes and then re-connect??
 

adventurenali92

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When I pulled my RTD fuse the service ride control message stopped coming up but my A/C would only blow hot air. Then as soon as I put the fuse back in the A/C started blowing cold again?
Where is this RTD fuse? Trying to figure out why my autoride compressor doesn't ever kick in when I start up my truck. I checked fuses this morning and everything seemed fine but I wasn't too sure what I needed to be looking for and which fuse I needed to check. I know if it's not a fuse issue than my compressor is probably ba d but may as well double check everything before I drop the dough on a new compressor.
 

Rocket Man

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2001 Chevy Tahoe LT- disabled it years ago and do not remember how I did it. I used it as a yard ornament when gas prices where so high. I am now driving it a lot due to Honda being down. I want the autoride back because it drives like crap . I am missing a large 30 green fuse underhood that says AIR. Would this be the fuse? The Yukon and chevy fuse boxes are worded differently. Any help would greatly be appreciated . Yes, I can really slap myself for being so stupid. Never turn off something that is working fine and have a bad memory when you do it. Thanks again for any info.
The AIR fuse has to do with emissions (Air Injection) but that system is used mainly on California vehicles. If you dont have emissions problems you dont need it. You're probably missing the RTD fuse which stands for Real Time Damping and that's the one that disables the Autoride, if you remove it and then disconnect the battery for 5-10 minutes then reconnect. I'm thinking there must be problems with your system otherwise it wouldn't have been pulled. It can be expensive to repair the Autoride.
 

Rocket Man

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Where is this RTD fuse? Trying to figure out why my autoride compressor doesn't ever kick in when I start up my truck. I checked fuses this morning and everything seemed fine but I wasn't too sure what I needed to be looking for and which fuse I needed to check. I know if it's not a fuse issue than my compressor is probably ba d but may as well double check everything before I drop the dough on a new compressor.
The RTD fuse is in the under hood fuse block. If it's not bad and your compressor isn't coming on there are several possible reasons. You can pull the compressor and hook 12 V to it to see if it runs. It could be burnt up from running too much if your rear shocks have holes in the bladders, or a bad ground (pretty common), or the suspension computer isn't telling it to turn on. I'd first check the RTD fuse and if it's good, disconnect the positive battery terminal for 10 minutes. Before reconnecting it, touch it to the negative terminal to make sure there's no memory or residual power in the vehicle. That's a " power cycle" I believe. If it still doesn't turn on, you have to dig deeper like I mentioned above.
 

adventurenali92

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The RTD fuse is in the under hood fuse block. If it's not bad and your compressor isn't coming on there are several possible reasons. You can pull the compressor and hook 12 V to it to see if it runs. It could be burnt up from running too much if your rear shocks have holes in the bladders, or a bad ground (pretty common), or the suspension computer isn't telling it to turn on. I'd first check the RTD fuse and if it's good, disconnect the positive battery terminal for 10 minutes. Before reconnecting it, touch it to the negative terminal to make sure there's no memory or residual power in the vehicle. That's a " power cycle" I believe. If it still doesn't turn on, you have to dig deeper like I mentioned above.
Great info! Appreciate it! I'll check it out. So far the fuse looks,good although the contact points look like they are a bit corroded. So im,gonna grab a new fuse and try popping,that in and seeing what happens.
 

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