Engine mount

[BattleTank]

Looks like my drivers side mount is getting worn.

What's needed to do this tool wise?
Any mounts to avoid buying?

 

[j91z28d1]

there's a sticky above you.

but short story they aren't fun to Change but doable. all the cheap replacements rip again pretty quickly. the 300$ each hummer mounts are the only good ones.

part numbers in the thread above.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I second the Hummer III motor mounts as a replacement.

 

[BattleTank]

I avoided that one to begin with because of the 83 pages. First page is riddled with off topic BS about a dashboard.

Was hoping for a quick synopsis of what I needed.

 

[j91z28d1]

I avoided that one to begin with because of the 83 pages. First page is riddled with off topic BS about a dashboard.

Was hoping for a quick synopsis of what I needed.

long threads I sometimes start at the end and work backwards.


hummer 3 mounts from rock auto is usually the cheapest place for them. you need like 2 of the one side. again I don't know part number off hand. I guess the first post of that sticky could be updated with the details.


watch some youtube videos of the change. pull the fender liner, I jacked the motor up from the exhaust pipe, but others did it from the oil pan with some wood on the jack to protect it.

fight with it for a few hours and you can get the old one out out and new in with blood sweat and cussing.


I have not done my passenger size yet. the drivers gets pulled up and rips, the passenger side gets pushed down. I'll get around to it one day.

maybe while I have the oil pan off for that gasket.

 

[Geotrash]

I avoided that one to begin with because of the 83 pages. First page is riddled with off topic BS about a dashboard.

Was hoping for a quick synopsis of what I needed.

Most of us go with the mount for the H3 Hummer V8: https://a.co/d/0dxxYs9k

Not quite as smooth as the fluid filled factory mount but it'll be the last time you ever have to replace it.

My notes from when I did the driver's side:

1/ I separated the steering shaft. It was a pain to do and took some patience, but it improved access significantly.
2/ As others have said they did also, I took the front wheel off along with the fender liner. Takes 10 minutes to do both. Game changer.
3/ I removed the heat shield from the exhaust manifold after patiently waiting for the penetrating oil to do its job on the bolts.
4/ I used a block of wood under the oil pan with a good quality floor jack that made it easy to support the engine and carefully raise it incrementally as needed.
5/ I cut away the heat shield from the motor mount with a pair of tin snips to get better access to the bolts.
6/ I used a wobble joint on the socket wrench.

Having done the job now, I wager I could do it again in a couple of hours and less than 3 beers, taking my time.

It's also a really good time to change the engine oil cooler lines, if so equipped.

And, thank you for your military service.

 

[BattleTank]

long threads I sometimes start at the end and work backwards.


hummer 3 mounts from rock auto is usually the cheapest place for them. you need like 2 of the one side. again I don't know part number off hand. I guess the first post of that sticky could be updated with the details.


watch some youtube videos of the change. pull the fender liner, I jacked the motor up from the exhaust pipe, but others did it from the oil pan with some wood on the jack to protect it.

fight with it for a few hours and you can get the old one out out and new in with blood sweat and cussing.


I have not done my passenger size yet. the drivers gets pulled up and rips, the passenger side gets pushed down. I'll get around to it one day.

maybe while I have the oil pan off for that gasket.

Most of us go with the mount for the H3 Hummer V8: https://a.co/d/0dxxYs9k

Not quite as smooth as the fluid filled factory mount but it'll be the last time you ever have to replace it.

My notes from when I did the driver's side:

1/ I separated the steering shaft. It was a pain to do and took some patience, but it improved access significantly.
2/ As others have said they did also, I took the front wheel off along with the fender liner. Takes 10 minutes to do both. Game changer.
3/ I removed the heat shield from the exhaust manifold after patiently waiting for the penetrating oil to do its job on the bolts.
4/ I used a block of wood under the oil pan with a good quality floor jack that made it easy to support the engine and carefully raise it incrementally as needed.
5/ I cut away the heat shield from the motor mount with a pair of tin snips to get better access to the bolts.
6/ I used a wobble joint on the socket wrench.

Having done the job now, I wager I could do it again in a couple of hours and less than 3 beers, taking my time.

It's also a really good time to change the engine oil cooler lines, if so equipped.

And, thank you for your military service.

Thank you BOTH. THIS information should be stickied!

I love how labor time is expressed in the number of beers it takes.

 

[Foggy]

Not that it helps with this thread... But Holy **** those Hummer motor mounts
have gone UP in price.. I think I paid about $105 EACH when i did mine 4 years ago.
Glad I got on this forum and got em in.. I still have my stock one.. They were fine, I was
just upgrading and this forum helped out a lot

 

[solli5pack]

Along with a cooler full of beers make sure you have a full box of band aids! This job tears up the hands!

 

[gooffeyguy]

Not that it helps with this thread... But Holy **** those Hummer motor mounts
have gone UP in price.. I think I paid about $105 EACH when i did mine 4 years ago.
Glad I got on this forum and got em in.. I still have my stock one.. They were fine, I was
just upgrading and this forum helped out a lot

Yup, they were like $92 when I bought mine 4-5 years ago. They're like $250 now