engine overheated after coolant change

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dec322

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Edited

---------- Post added at 10:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:31 PM ----------

Ok so I finally gave up on it for the night. I let it run for about 30 minutes straight and it didn't overheat again, but didn't suck any coolant either. Its only got 2.5 gallons in it. Wasted a whole day on this 1 hr job and it still ain't right. I guess I'll just stick to the oil changes from now on.
Couldn't GM have avoided this problem by using a radiator cap AND the overflow jug?? Instead of creating a one-way air trap.

How did you drain it? I've never done anything on these but I would think that if you just drained the radiator then you would still have stuff in the block. Therefore, you would only need 2.5 gallons to make up for what you drained out of the radiator.

I like the idea of only one way to add coolant. I had a 99 cobra that had two ways to fill it. The bottom radiator hose came off on the interstate and I lost alot of coolant. I put it back on and filled it at the radiator. Unfortunately that was not the highest point and I overheated it a few more times trying to limp home. Needless to say, I blew the headgasket.
 
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Yuk_Nali_6.0

Yuk_Nali_6.0

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I pulled the bottom radiator hose...got an easy 4 gallons out, so 4 should go back in. I've never heard of draining the block seperately.
 

dec322

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I pulled the bottom radiator hose...got an easy 4 gallons out, so 4 should go back in. I've never heard of draining the block seperately.

Well, if you got 4 out then I would think you could get 4 in.

Personally, I don't know how you would drain the block. I'm sure there is a method to flush the system so that you push the old stuff out of the block but I don't mess with fluids on my vehicles anymore. I change oil and maybe differential but I take it some where when I need to change anything else. I get too frustrated when an hour job takes all day and then I have to drive in fear for a few weeks.

Post up if you figure it out.
 

Rivieraracing

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Don't get too frustrated man, some cars are just picky when it comes to getting air out of coolant systems! Have you turned your heater on high heat and fan while you have been filling the coolant, some rigs need the heater on high heat and high fan to get coolant to circulate through the heater core (not sure about these trucks)?

---------- Post added at 06:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:43 AM ----------

Yeah, I just pulled out my Haynes manual and it does say to turn the heater heat level to high and high fan to get the coolant to circulate through the heater core, if you didn't you might be getting an air pocket around that area.
 
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Yuk_Nali_6.0

Yuk_Nali_6.0

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Well I didn't have the heater on as I was filling it, but I've ran it afterwards to no avail.
 

Clemsonbloz

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you generally get air pockets when the engine sits higher than the radiator. That's when you have an air bleed(like the front wheel drive GM cars).. When I changed my water pump, I filled the radiator with the upper hose, and then filled the remainder in the expansion tank. Started, ran the heat, and it swallowed painlessly..
 

bigpapapete

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maybe your thermostat is stuck did you think of changing that. if there is an air bubble there it wont open. just a suggestion
 

HMFDZ28

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when you fill the system do yourself a favor and put the heat on hi. This will allow the coolant to flow into that portion of the system and you can also tell when coolant gets in there cause well you will have heat lol.
 

tybardy

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when you fill the system do yourself a favor and put the heat on hi. This will allow the coolant to flow into that portion of the system and you can also tell when coolant gets in there cause well you will have heat lol.

i was just about to say that... little trick my dad told me growing up
 

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