Engine shuts off while driving

[jfoj]

I would get the battery tested again, just because it is new, does not mean it is good.

The other thought is maybe something is going haywire with the anti theft system. If you tried Starting Fluid with no luck then it sounds like there is no spark. The anti theft systems are typically supposed to shut down spark and fuel pressure. Could be a problem with the anti theft module connections or a questionable relay inside the anti theft module?

Make sure your vehicle does not have any sort of aftermarket electronics, Lojack, or dealer installed anti theft device. Not sure if you know the full history of the vehicle and if purchased new. Sometimes dealers try to make money installed additonal tracking or anti theft devices.

If your vehicle fails to start, lock the vehicle and come back about 30 minutes later. Approach the driver side rear of the car and see if you hear the fuel pump power up when you hit the keyfob.

Just for kicks swap keyfobs and/or replace the keyfob battery.

Carry tools to disconnect the battery if the problem occurs again. Often you need to disconnect the battery on newer vehicles and either use a jumper cable or of the cables will reach, touch the cables together for 15-30 seconds to drain the capacitors in modules to try and do a reset to see what happens.

If the problem only happens after the vehicle has been running a while, chances are heat is causing a loose connection to break the electrical path. Often something like a crank sensor or maybe a cam sensor can cause the engine to randomly die and not restart because the crank sensor cannot properly determine the engine position. Watch the tach on the dash if there is a not start condition, you should see the engine RPM around 150-200 RPM while cranking, a scan tool can also monitor this.

You could think a questionable crank sensor should trigger a code or codes, but sometimes crazy things occur and you will not get a code because maybe the crank sensor detects the engine is turning, but cannot properly see the TDC indications and may not trigger a code. The only way you can see this typically is with a scope of some sort.

 

[sasso]

So verified spark and fuel.

If you are positive you have fuel delivery up to the injectors then the next thing is making sure the injectors are getting a signal to pulse

Are you able to disconnect an injector to see if it is getting a pulse?

A volt meter or test light of some sort can work

Yes, there is pulse

 

[blanchard7684]

Yes, there is pulse

Dang…

Fuel , spark, pulse, and I’m assuming no issue with throttle body ( air flow).

Every two hours of engine operation , a brake pedal and steering input makes it stop and can’t be restarted for extended period.

With no codes stored.

The ecm must be thinking everything is fine.

Either another control module or system is executing a shutdown command, or there is a major connector issue or a wire chafing issue or a wire connection problem.

Can you see if the issue is repeatable with only steering or only brake input?

Also… does this happen with both key fobs?

 

[sasso]

Dang…

Fuel , spark, pulse, and I’m assuming no issue with throttle body ( air flow).

Every two hours of engine operation , a brake pedal and steering input makes it stop and can’t be restarted for extended period.

With no codes stored.

The ecm must be thinking everything is fine.

Either another control module or system is executing a shutdown command, or there is a major connector issue or a wire chafing issue or a wire connection problem.

Can you see if the issue is repeatable with only steering or only brake input?

So, not 2 hours of operation, it turns of after 15 mins of operation, it idled for 2 hours without issue. Only when I put in brake input and steering input did it die. It felt like the load was too much for the car to handle and it turned off.

And then just refuses to start. Tomorrow morning I will try to get it to turn off with either steering input or brake input. But I am assuming it’s steering input because each time it turned off it was turned to the right.

But still what could cause it to not start up right away after it shuts down. Super confusing

 

[sasso]

I would get the battery tested again, just because it is new, does not mean it is good.

The other thought is maybe something is going haywire with the anti theft system. If you tried Starting Fluid with no luck then it sounds like there is no spark. The anti theft systems are typically supposed to shut down spark and fuel pressure. Could be a problem with the anti theft module connections or a questionable relay inside the anti theft module?

Make sure your vehicle does not have any sort of aftermarket electronics, Lojack, or dealer installed anti theft device. Not sure if you know the full history of the vehicle and if purchased new. Sometimes dealers try to make money installed additonal tracking or anti theft devices.

If your vehicle fails to start, lock the vehicle and come back about 30 minutes later. Approach the driver side rear of the car and see if you hear the fuel pump power up when you hit the keyfob.

Just for kicks swap keyfobs and/or replace the keyfob battery.

Carry tools to disconnect the battery if the problem occurs again. Often you need to disconnect the battery on newer vehicles and either use a jumper cable or of the cables will reach, touch the cables together for 15-30 seconds to drain the capacitors in modules to try and do a reset to see what happens.

If the problem only happens after the vehicle has been running a while, chances are heat is causing a loose connection to break the electrical path. Often something like a crank sensor or maybe a cam sensor can cause the engine to randomly die and not restart because the crank sensor cannot properly determine the engine position. Watch the tach on the dash if there is a not start condition, you should see the engine RPM around 150-200 RPM while cranking, a scan tool can also monitor this.

You could think a questionable crank sensor should trigger a code or codes, but sometimes crazy things occur and you will not get a code because maybe the crank sensor detects the engine is turning, but cannot properly see the TDC indications and may not trigger a code. The only way you can see this typically is with a scope of some sort.

Gonna try and replace the crank sensor and cam sensors tomorrow.

 

[tagexpcom]

To OP - Sorry you have this to deal with this, you have my sympathies. But very interesting! and thank you all ( OP and Posters) for sharing concise info and events! Following with high interest.

 

[Pressureangle]

Cuts off steering to the right.
Get it to cut off, then confirm the no-start
Steer it back to center with engine off, then try restart
May give a clue where to look

 

[Doubeleive]

I think that narrows it down to something physical then either in the ignition or engine
if the starter is spinning, has fuel and spark, all modules online then that would point me more towards something else on the engine
this is probably where you are going to have to go thru each thing on the engine and confirm with a meter
my next guess would maybe be a grounding point somewhere is failing under a load
when the no start occurs, it's going to take a step-by-step diagnostic a to b to c and confirm each thing is happening with a meter
somewhere there is a break happening, some tech might have to get on there with a oscilloscope

 

[blanchard7684]

So, not 2 hours of operation, it turns of after 15 mins of operation, it idled for 2 hours without issue. Only when I put in brake input and steering input did it die. It felt like the load was too much for the car to handle and it turned off.

And then just refuses to start. Tomorrow morning I will try to get it to turn off with either steering input or brake input. But I am assuming it’s steering input because each time it turned off it was turned to the right.

But still what could cause it to not start up right away after it shuts down. Super confusing

That almost sounds like the alternator was getting bogged down and the engine hit a stall point ( before the throttle could respond)

I had something very similar happen to a 2024 f150 work truck I use. I pulled into a parking area, turned the wheel sharply to position truck for reverse in, hit brake and it stalled.

I wonder if there might be a throttle issue— is it getting stuck out of position somehow not allowing a restart? And it may not be responding in time to keep engine above stall speed with a sudden increase in accessory load.

 

[Silverado4x4]

The motor should not boog down when steering as it has electric steering and not a power steering pump, if it's a cam or crank sensor it should have threw a code. Key start or push start, key start could be a wire in the column. I could see the alternator not putting out enough amps when turning the wheel and shutting down as said. Is there any mods to to vehicle?