Engine temperature gauge problem?

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96redsport

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Mine always ran right with the thermostat temps until I had a intake gasket break resulting in a big over heat which ended up spinning a main bearing... When the engine was rebuilt I had a new temp sender put in and ever since my temp readings have been lower than the thermostat temp. Even changed clusters to the esky style but the readings still remain the same. So i wondered if it is the temp sender I had put in but never got around to changing it. I guess I should get the scan temp values first before I go replacing stuff...
 
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bowtiefreak

bowtiefreak

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I finally scanned it and the ECU reads the temp at 194 so that is good. What are the chances the switch is bad? The gauge seems to work, a quick test taking the negative side of the battery to the input line allowed the gauge to reach past max. I am happy the truck is running at correct temp. I'd just like to see this accurately. I did try another temp switch...no better
 
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Tbruz

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Bowtie,
I had(have) the same issue with my 97.
Scanner reads 195 but the dash temp gauge reads lower.
I too replaced the temp sender on the head and on the thermostat housing.
Changed T stats twice and tried my spare dash as well.
All this with no luck.

I finally decided to "recalibrate" the temp gauge by removing the temp needle and re-installing it at the 195 mark once the truck was up to temp and validated at 195 by the scanner temp.
Downside is the temp gauge doesn't sit at the 100 mark when stone cold.


What I think is going on is that the temp gauge itself is a variable resistor that wears out over time. I haven't been able to locate a temp gauge calibration procedure against a known standard(specific value resistors indicate a specific temp readings) so I cant be sure.

I figured I need the hot temp indication to be accurate not the cold side.
Tbruz
 
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SunlitComet

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104° 1200-1350 ohms
125° 53-55 ohms.

that is ohming the sensor itself. if out of specs, replace it. also ohm your sensor connector, harness side to cavity 13 dark green wire on plug behind cluster to ensure you have no resistance issues. a few ohms would be expected but not like say double digits probably.

---------- Post added at 01:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:04 AM ----------

and fix it, don't "recalibrate", there is no such thing in these vehicles for that gauge.
 

My99Yukon

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Both sensors are new. Going to try to get a scanner on it tomorrow.

Thanks

This is an older thread but I just started to have the same issue. I am "mostly confident" that the Yukon was running much hotter on average than the 160ish that it tops out at.

1. The heater cranks out lots of heat.
2. Even when it is 110 deg and I am idling around the temperature gauge never gets above this mark. I believe it used to be much more centered.
3. I flushed and filled the radiator 8 months ago. Replaced items with the following parts: Duralast Radiator Cap 7616; Fail-Safe Thermostat 7228-195
4. There was an initial spike like you had but it was because I had air in the system still. I pulled over, released the vacuum, topped it off and cleared any remaining air. I have run the truck for 8 months without an issue so I don't think this affected any of the sensors or engine.
5. Now to the sensors:

There is a good video on how to test the driver side sensor and wires here. But since you swapped out those parts that is not an issue.

It is possible that a bad ground somewhere could be affecting the electricals. I am about to upgrade some of my wires next weekend and I will let you know if that magically fixes the issue. I will post the upgrades in my Project 99 Yukon thread.

Did you figure out the issue? Any help on this issue would be great.
 

My99Yukon

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As an update, I was able to get a scan today and my temp was 195-199 and functioning as designed. I will see if any of the electrical work on upgrading the grounds helps with this and update if this is part of the problem. I will try to check each ground before I replace it with my DMM and see if I can pinpoint the culprit, if any.
 

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