Engine ticky-ticky-ticky sound at idle (2007 Tahoe 5.3L, 135,000 miles)

[swathdiver]

I saw two crack lines of flex plate. Tell it to me straight guys. How long do I have. Dealership said it’s about a 9 hour job @ $110/hr plus parts.

My "book" show a shop rate of 6.8 hours for my 2009 4x4. If you can turn wrenches and healthy enough to lay on your back, you can do it yourself.

 

[Larryjb]

I think you'd really have to know what you are doing if you are going to drop a transmission without a lift. I've heard of some near disasters as the transmission started to roll on a guy. I, personally, wouldn't take this one on, as much as I like to save big bucks. But, that's me.

 

[swathdiver]

I think you'd really have to know what you are doing if you are going to drop a transmission without a lift. I've heard of some near disasters as the transmission started to roll on a guy. I, personally, wouldn't take this one on, as much as I like to save big bucks. But, that's me.

I grew up doing them in the driveway, with 2x4s and floor jacks on cars. Didn't have a truck back then, later had a shop and that was o so nice! I plan to do mine at home Lord willing when the time comes, will pick up a dedicated transmission jack for the task.

 

[Larryjb]

You've got more guts than me! I've lowered a FWD engine/Tranny to replace solenoids, I did the heads on my 5.3, valve stem seals on an OHC 4.6L. But I'll leave the tranny drop for a shop.

It doesn't help that I work slow though. When I did my heads, I probably spent two days cleaning the block for the new heads, a couple of hours running a thread cleaner down each bolt hole, then washing them brake clean followed by blowing them out with air.

That said, I've also got a bad tick on cold start up. I'm hoping it's just piston slap because it goes away almost completely once the temperature reaches about 70°F. I'll take a listen to the bell housing on mine just in case it is the flywheel. I hadn't really considered that possibility.

 

[swathdiver]

You've got more guts than me! I've lowered a FWD engine/Tranny to replace solenoids, I did the heads on my 5.3, valve stem seals on an OHC 4.6L. But I'll leave the tranny drop for a shop.

It doesn't help that I work slow though. When I did my heads, I probably spent two days cleaning the block for the new heads, a couple of hours running a thread cleaner down each bolt hole, then washing them brake clean followed by blowing them out with air.

That said, I've also got a bad tick on cold start up. I'm hoping it's just piston slap because it goes away almost completely once the temperature reaches about 70°F. I'll take a listen to the bell housing on mine just in case it is the flywheel. I hadn't really considered that possibility.

May have been slow Larry but you were thorough and that's what counts for a DIY guy. Make sure your oil is GM compliant.

 

[BG1988]

Last time I checked that oil was not 6094M or Dexos1 compliant. It's viscosity numbers are too low which is why you're motor is rattling around. Get some Shell Rotella Gas Truck or the ACDelco oil made for our trucks if you want to order it, not always easy to get locally. 88865905/10-9234 or 88865743/10-9147. These are GM and ACDelco part numbers, 1 and 5 quart bottles respectively.

What oil filter are you using?

Our engines were designed for a synthetic blend but a few years later they switched to full synthetic for more reliability with the AFM system.

So, 6094M was the original standard, then they came out with Dexos1 and now they are at Dexos1 Gen2.

Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30 has the following builder approvals:

• General Motors dexos1
• Gen 2 (license number D10107GH015)
• ILSAC GF-5 SN +

According to ExxonMobil, Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30 is of the following quality level:

• General Motors 4718M
• General Motors 6094M

it's certified to 6094m but they have the dexos1 gen2 lic

 

[swathdiver]

Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30 has the following builder approvals:

• General Motors dexos1
• Gen 2 (license number D10107GH015)
• ILSAC GF-5 SN +

According to ExxonMobil, Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30 is of the following quality level:

• General Motors 4718M
• General Motors 6094M

it's certified to 6094m but they have the dexos1 gen2 lic

Wrong oil Brent, he is using EP High Mileage.

 

[Sam Harris]

Wrong oil Brent, he is using EP High Mileage.

All this talk of incompatible oil... anything special needed for my old gen 3 motor in my 2003 Yukon with the L59..? I’ve been using Mobil 1 Full synthetic 5W-30 since I got mine. And I believe that’s the same oil that has been used her whole life.

 

[swathdiver]

All this talk of incompatible oil... anything special needed for my old gen 3 motor in my 2003 Yukon with the L59..? I’ve been using Mobil 1 Full synthetic 5W-30 since I got mine. And I believe that’s the same oil that has been used her whole life.

I started it Sam. Never paid it much mind either until one day I actually read that part of the owner's manual and then did more research online. Not always, but we see some guys having problems related to the oil they are using because it is not GM approved.

Plain old Mobil 1 is GM approved for yours and mine but I don't like it anymore myself and switched off.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

All this talk of incompatible oil... anything special needed for my old gen 3 motor in my 2003 Yukon with the L59..? I’ve been using Mobil 1 Full synthetic 5W-30 since I got mine. And I believe that’s the same oil that has been used her whole life.

I've been running exclusively M1 full syn high milage in my l59. Analysis is good. A little ticking, but nothing I'd consider abnormal. James has had me questioning it lately. I think I will try the Delco ot Rotella gas next time. Have heard guys say Penzoil Platinum has quieted them down, too.