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You would think it should be the opposite side..Rear passenger wheel takes a lot more effort to turn that drivers side. Could this be causing it?
Yea, allowable is for lazy alignment techs. That setting is at the far outer range of allowable and the tech should have road tested and felt the pull/drift and corrected.Agree on the caster, the specs call for 1 degree difference in caster, but the allowable range is +/- 1 degree....?
You would think it should be the opposite side..
Does it feel like the brakes are making it hard to turn? Or the diff?
IMO, too much caster lead on the right side. You want a small caster lead on the right for road crown but, again IMO, the 2 degrees more on the right side is too much.
Also, are you saying you replaced all the components to attempt to fix the pull and then had it aligned with this alignment outcome and still had a pull to left or you had it aligned, for whatever reason, and then when pulling left you replaced the components? Then had aligned again? There would be two alignment printouts.
Plus, if it is such a noticeable pull to left, why did the alignment tech not notice it when on an after alignment road test?
1. Yes, a rear wheel dragging can cause a pull, especially if the rotor heats up from a sticking caliper.
2. Camber creates a pull, as it turns the tire effectively into a cone, pulling towards the small end. Typically vehicles have camber set to pull left to account for road crown. Yours seems like a lot.
3. Caster has a little less effect on pull, a lot on straight-line stability. I never offset caster on my own vehicles. Yours seems like *a lot*. I haven't done alignments for 20 years, so not a lot of experience with independent suspensions, especially 4x4. Caster causes drive steer on front axles, not desirable. If I lived in 4x4 I might care, but I don't so I tend to have mine set at 2x4 specs for on-road drivability.