Factory rear brake upgrade?

[SnowDrifter]

We all know about the 2007 front upgrade

What about the rear?

I investigated the 2007 rear brakes. They appear to be a downgrade. Single piston calipers, solid rotors compared to the dual piston, vented rotors that come with the vehicle originally.

Anything OE that fits? That's my only requirement. Needs to be obtainable from the local parts store. Getting parts online is really hit or miss where I am, and I'm pretty much split between 2 addresses at this point. It adds a logistical bit I'm truly not interested in

 

[HiHoeSilver]

We all know about the 2007 front upgrade

What about the rear?

I investigated the 2007 rear brakes. They appear to be a downgrade. Single piston calipers, solid rotors compared to the dual piston, vented rotors that come with the vehicle originally.

Anything OE that fits? That's my only requirement. Needs to be obtainable from the local parts store. Getting parts online is really hit or miss where I am, and I'm pretty much split between 2 addresses at this point. It adds a logistical bit I'm truly not interested in

I think Baer has a kit. Otherwise, nope. Leave it.
The NNBS rears are a downgrade.

 

[SnowDrifter]

I think Baer has a kit. Otherwise, nope. Leave it.
The NNBS rears are a downgrade.

PPV perhaps?

 

[adriver]

2014+ ? I think those are an upgrade for NNBS.
Silverado SS?
Hydroboost?

You want your rear brakes to do about a 1/3 of the braking or a little more. If you have discs on the rear, I would think you would need a BBK on the front before you need to upgrade the rears. The NNBS upgrade is a little improvement, but even with that I would upgrade the fronts even more before I would try to get more out of the rear than the discs.

 

[OneofFew]

Upgrading the rear will only give you potential (not actual) improvement in braking power as the proportioning valve determines brake balance. Without upgrading the front there is no gain in upgrading the rear. I just got done putting stoptech drilled+slotted rotors, pads and calipers on the rear of mine, but will be doing the 07+ front upgrade.

 

[SnowDrifter]

Upgrading the rear will only give you potential (not actual) improvement in braking power as the proportioning valve determines brake balance. Without upgrading the front there is no gain in upgrading the rear. I just got done putting stoptech drilled+slotted rotors, pads and calipers on the rear of mine, but will be doing the 07+ front upgrade.

Which would then serve to reason, that since my front brakes have the 07 upgrade, I need an equivalent rear upgrade

 

[bottomline2000]

Upgrading the rear will only give you potential (not actual) improvement in braking power as the proportioning valve determines brake balance. Without upgrading the front there is no gain in upgrading the rear. I just got done putting stoptech drilled+slotted rotors, pads and calipers on the rear of mine, but will be doing the 07+ front upgrade.

The odd thing about our trucks is they come with bigger brakes in the rear and the majority of us wear the rear pads before the front. I would say our rears do more work than expected. I did SS lines all around in addition to the NNBS upgrade with R1 Carbon drilled/slotted rotors with hydroboost. I have a lot more stopping power than stock and am sure my truck can out stop a newer truck because of the dual disc rear and Hydroboost.

The only option beyond what I have is to go to a more aggressive pad or a Baer setup with larger disc. You could do 15" front and 14" rear but, your rotors are gonna be $1k.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk

 

[OneofFew]

You could do a bit of testing. In Germany, as part of the periodic state inspection, they do a brake balance test. Results show actual brake performance and narrow down issues. I'm sure similar testing is done here in racing applications, but that is where my knowledge ends.
It is not really easy to test brakes in the field and get a real sense of performance as suspension, traction and brake balance has such a bearing on it, but you could do a series of hard stops on gravel or dirt, triggering the abs (or disabling abs to get a full lock up) and noting which wheels lock up first. If all is working as it should, such tests should be inconclusive as the conditions are not always the same, but if one set of wheels consistently locks up first/abs triggered, then one can surmise that that brake/axle could be limiting the total brake performance.
However, there are many factors at work here. IDK if these have a brake bias valve or how it is controlled. some manufacturers have and mechanical linkage adjusting brake bias in real time depending on suspension load. When braking, the front of the vehicle dips down, the brake bias valve then adjusts the brake pressure toward the rear, leveling the vehicle out more.
Suspension issues and/or lifted/lowered or sagged springs would distort the action of the bias valve....