Figured out how to keep steady voltage

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Midnight_Yukon

TYF Newbie
Joined
Mar 4, 2021
Posts
16
Reaction score
12
on the 07+ we have this regulating system (Regulated Voltage Control or RVC) that basically controls the alternator when it sees more/less drain on the battery.

Being that I have a decent sized stereo as well as HIDs (with the relay harness) on my truck, I looked for a way to turn the RVC off. There would be points while driving that my HIDs would start to flicker because the ballast weren't getting 12 volts. I thought it was the ballast and swapped sides and even purchased new ballast with the same results.

Well, there is a wire connection on the negative side of the battery that controls this system. If you unplug it, your alternator will continue to charge and will stay around 14v while driving. I've had this unplugged for almost a month now with no issues what so ever. No more stereo drain, no more flashing of my HIDs, nothing. I haven't seen any consequences of disconnecting it either.


Here's a few pics you can see the plug and the wiring to disconnect. I put some electrical tape over the connections so they don't rust or get corroded or anything.

photo1_zps344fc5e0-jpg.178079


photo2_zpsf1ecbf11-jpg.178080


photo3_zpsabf70b3f-jpg.178078


View attachment 153132

View attachment 153133

View attachment 153134
I’ve got an issue with my headlights flashing aswell as my dash and stereo system and basically every light on the inside. I have underglow but it’s not even on the battery or plugged in currently and it’s still flashing could this help?
 

robgreg75

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2011
Posts
154
Reaction score
109
Yesterday on my wife's drive home the battery light came on, I checked it with my multimeter and it was overcharging at 15 volts all the time. I found this thread so pulled this plug and it fixed the issue and the alternator dropped down to 14.5V and the warning light went away. So this can fix more than one issue. Also I will say this 2010 goes through a battery about every 3 years I wonder if the weird factory charging had anything to do with it.
 

chevreb

TYF Newbie
Joined
Dec 29, 2021
Posts
1
Reaction score
0
Hello, new to this thread but not automotive. Would this RVC cause an alternator to spike about 15.0-15.3V when running?
 
Last edited:

RooTBeeRthe1st

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2018
Posts
1,085
Reaction score
2,464
Sub'd

When idling in gear and a/c on full blast at temp(700w fans going ham), voltage drops to 11's and sits there. Rev it at all and jumps back up to 12.5+ as it should.

Just pulled the ammeter sensor plug like in the OP, we shall see results tomorrow.
 

Doubeleive

Wes
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2017
Posts
26,035
Reaction score
38,881
Location
Stockton, Ca.
Sub'd

When idling in gear and a/c on full blast at temp(700w fans going ham), voltage drops to 11's and sits there. Rev it at all and jumps back up to 12.5+ as it should.

Just pulled the ammeter sensor plug like in the OP, we shall see results tomorrow.
I went thru all of that myself and more and in the end it was a defective battery, it was just barely good enough to pass a test and not get warrantied. So I bought 2 brand new batterys and that was about 2 years ago and no problem since
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2018
Posts
1,085
Reaction score
2,464
I went thru all of that myself and more and in the end it was a defective battery, it was just barely good enough to pass a test and not get warrantied. So I bought 2 brand new batterys and that was about 2 years ago and no problem since
I have two yellow tops in it. ones brand new, ones maybe 2-3 years old but still good condition.(was my only good battery for quite a while.
figured id try this first.
but i think my alt is starting to crapout.
still need to do the big 3 either way.
 

Doubeleive

Wes
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2017
Posts
26,035
Reaction score
38,881
Location
Stockton, Ca.
I have two yellow tops in it. ones brand new, ones maybe 2-3 years old but still good condition.(was my only good battery for quite a while.
figured id try this first.
but i think my alt is starting to crapout.
still need to do the big 3 either way.
had bad alternator before that as well, was a ebay special actually 2 of them, then i got tired of it bought the mechman
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2018
Posts
1,085
Reaction score
2,464
had bad alternator before that as well, was a ebay special actually 2 of them, then i got tired of it bought the mechman
That's why I was thinking I would just jump straight to a higher output alternator I have to replace it anyway.
200-250 should be plenty for me.
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2018
Posts
1,085
Reaction score
2,464
Well, now when the fans kick on high, it drops to 12.5v and holds.
I can live with that, but I definitely want to do the big 3 and see where that gets me. Then a new alt to top it off.

All that said, I still haven't gone in for my fan or airbag recall.
So maybe the fans are pulling more than they should be.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
132,086
Posts
1,862,089
Members
96,546
Latest member
Squirrely tahoe
Top