Fosscore's 2013 Suburban LTZ Build Thread

[Sam Harris]

Put the Suburban back up on jack stands this morning. Removed the driver side sway bar bushing and gave it a good glob of grease. Went to remove the passengers side and one of the bolts will not budge. Rather it wants to round off. Tried a 6 point and 12 point deep socket and had a look at some vice grips. NOPE!! The sockets want to round off the head and the vice grip is not really going to work due to limited spacing.

Any further thoughts on getting that bolt to move without making the head into a marble??

As I was messing around on the passenger side, I think I found my clunking issue.

The passenger side stabilizer bar link bushing is gone! I guess I overlooked it in my hurry or maybe it finally just popped off.

Missing bushing under the sway bar.
View attachment 233664

Sway bar bushing bolt wanting to round off the head. 10mm.
View attachment 233665


Also removed and greased the rear sway bar bushings as well.

Here are the stabilizer bar link kits I am looking at. Moog Problem Solver which is what I put on the Tahoe.

Moog K700538 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit

https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K700538...2?keywords=K700538+moog&qid=1572793274&sr=8-2

Here is the Moog site link.
https://www.moogparts.com/find-my-part/find-my-part-results.html?parttype=SUSPENSION&apptype=AUTOMOTIVE&options=2013~Chevrolet~Suburban 1500&values=2013~Chevrolet~Suburban 1500

Those are the ones I put on the Yukon. Happy with them.

 

[iamdub]

You're fighting a bolt on the sway bar frame bushing? Soak it with PB B'laster for a couple days until your replacement bushings arrive. Then, heat the frame around the bolt and beat directly on the bolt head with a hammer. Grab a cheap socket that you'd be fine with sacrificing (pawn shops are great for this since many sell them from a bin of mixed singles) that's one size smaller even if it's SAE instead of metric. Try to use a 6-point socket if you have enough of the flats left on the head. After heating the frame around it and beating on the bolt, beat that socket onto it and try to back it out. If you have a small impact gun, like a cordless 1/4" or pneumatic 3/8", you might try hitting it with that in forward and reverse a few times to help shock the threads apart. Just don't run the impact like you're on a lug nut.

 

[Fosscore]

You're fighting a bolt on the sway bar frame bushing? Soak it with PB B'laster for a couple days until your replacement bushing arrive. Then, heat the frame around the bolt and beat directly on the bolt head with a hammer. Grab a cheap socket that you'd be fine with sacrificing (pawn shops are great for this since many sell them from a bin of mixed singles) that's one size smaller even if it's SAE instead of metric. Try to use a 6-point socket if you have enough of the flats left on the head. After heating the frame around it and beating on the bolt, beat that socket onto it and try to back it out. If you have a small impact gun, like a cordless 1/4" or pneumatic 3/8", you might try hitting it with that in forward and reverse a few times to help shock the threads apart. Just don't run the impact like you're on a lug nut.

Thx man. Good advice to go with the others.

 

[The_Burban]

You're fighting a bolt on the sway bar frame bushing? Soak it with PB B'laster for a couple days until your replacement bushings arrive. Then, heat the frame around the bolt and beat directly on the bolt head with a hammer. Grab a cheap socket that you'd be fine with sacrificing (pawn shops are great for this since many sell them from a bin of mixed singles) that's one size smaller even if it's SAE instead of metric. Try to use a 6-point socket if you have enough of the flats left on the head. After heating the frame around it and beating on the bolt, beat that socket onto it and try to back it out. If you have a small impact gun, like a cordless 1/4" or pneumatic 3/8", you might try hitting it with that in forward and reverse a few times to help shock the threads apart. Just don't run the impact like you're on a lug nut.

I did the PB for a few days.

Then I smashed it with the M18 Fuel 1/2" high torque.

I bought a new set of bits after this to drill it all out.

Imma try your way next time.

 

[iamdub]

I did the PB for a few days.

Then I smashed it with the M18 Fuel 1/2" high torque.

I bought a new set of bits after this to drill it all out.

Imma try your way next time.

Them Milwaukees are manbearpigs. That's why I suggested a small impact to gradually shock it loose. lol

Guessing by your avatar that you're either a Milwaukee sales rep or a huge fan. PM me if you're a sales rep, please!

 

[The_Burban]

No, not a sales rep. I try to get friendly with my local ones but they seem to have a lot of turnover.

Keep an eye on slickdeals.net and know your local Home Depots. If you got time, they will go on sale.

 

[randeez]

Mind were a pita first time out, used large impact with 6pt socket. Put them back in drowned in antiseize. Havent had a problem since

 

[Fosscore]

Sway Bar End Links.


Mission accomplished on the sway bar end links install.

Moog Problem Solver K70053
https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/pa...pNum=K700538&partType=Stabilizer Bar Link Kit

https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K700538-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B00CE3PA6A

These are the brand/style Moog links that I put on the Tahoe as well. Just a different model number.

They were a tight fit going in, even when dum dum loosened up both sides of the sway bar once the front wheels were off the ground on jack stands.

I did have to invert the links and install them from the top down due to the tight fit. Took a little persuasion to squeeze that bushing in near the lower control arm. And maybe I missed something or didn't unload the sway bar enough, but in the end, the part is installed, the bushings are in the correct order (and there are 2 bushings on the passenger side that was missing 2!) and torqued maybe even a bit more than the recommended 17lbs.

Next will be to deal with the sway bar bushing bolt that is stuck with a rounded head. Will look into some Energy Suspension greasable bushings with zerk fittings. Just need to find a replacement 10mm bolt as the OEM one is going to be toast. Not an immediate need, but on the never ending maintenance list.

No wonder there was clunking/popping with 2 missing bushings, thus making the link hand loose.



Moog Problem Solver and OEM links.



New Moog link installed.

 

[swathdiver]

Put the Suburban back up on jack stands this morning. Removed the driver side sway bar bushing and gave it a good glob of grease. Went to remove the passengers side and one of the bolts will not budge. Rather it wants to round off. Tried a 6 point and 12 point deep socket and had a look at some vice grips. NOPE!! The sockets want to round off the head and the vice grip is not really going to work due to limited spacing.

Careful! I snapped the head right off, it's too small and the threads are also 10mm!. You can put oil on the other side of the threads as the bolt goes through the bracket. I had to order the bolts off Amazon and ebay, not too many around anymore it seems. Let me see... 11609701.

That incident with your oil filter is why I always change the oil myself. I also run the long K&N (HP2011) with the one inch nut to make removal and installation much easier.

 

[Fosscore]

Careful! I snapped the head right off, it's too small and the threads are also 10mm!. You can put oil on the other side of the threads as the bolt goes through the bracket. I had to order the bolts off Amazon and ebay, not too many around anymore it seems. Let me see... 11609701.

That incident with your oil filter is why I always change the oil myself. I also run the long K&N (HP2011) with the one inch nut to make removal and installation much easier.

Thx James. I worried about it snapping off, hence why I stopped pushing and it wasn't going to effect anything immediately.

I found the bolt on Amazon/eBay. Amazon price better by a bit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QIO4NU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3D9I70CHHIHSF&psc=1

Will have to order that on standby for when I get to that project.

Thx for that part number.