05Single
afraid of the dark
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2015
- Posts
- 8,186
- Reaction score
- 11,456
Jk I meant for yoursWrong build thread...
Fosscore's 2013 Suburban LTZ Build Thread
- Thread starter Fosscore
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
OP
OP
Fosscore
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2014
- Posts
- 10,519
- Reaction score
- 18,256
OP
OP
Fosscore
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2014
- Posts
- 10,519
- Reaction score
- 18,256
So the cracked dash issue. Some good input on the NNBS thread.
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...nnbs-gmt900-tahoe-yukon-today.44151/page-2053
And here is a post about the Dash Skin.
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...nnbs-gmt900-tahoe-yukon-today.44151/page-2057
Company website. Not a bad idea and and a good price, if you do not want to tackle a complete dash replacement.
https://dashskin.com
So here are the discovery pics and copied over the text from the NNBS thread.
I used a plastic panel tool and very carefully popped the 4 tabs on the center speaker cover to reveal the culprit of the 2 center speaker cracks.
1. Zero support in the center of the dash where it meets the front split.
2. Heavy ass Bose center speaker held in place by 2 screws.
3. Zero support on/around/under the Bose speaker.
The speaker is only held in in place with 2 x 7mm screws into the threaded inserts. Very thin tabs to stabilize the speaker and dash in the center with no support.
You can see the cracks originating from the screw holes from the center speaker. Where those threaded insert tabs are x 2 the plastic has cracked where the tab is so the only thing holding it in place is the insert.
So I mixed up some Loctite 5 minute epoxy and started laying down some layers on top and some underneath where I could reach with my finger on the front left crack.
I decided to go ahead and remove the front A/C vent covers and faux wood dash trim piece. Thankfully nothing broke. A few clips, remove the DIC plug and keep in mind that the far passenger vent nearest the door is not part of the assembly. It has its own 7mm screw. The long faux wood trim where it meets the 2 center vent is "very" "very" flimsy and appears to be one of those plastic screws non-removable type job.
Cracks originating from the center speaker screws into the threaded inserts. Top one goes to 10-11 o'clock. The bottom one goes to 6 o'clock. At least that is what I though until further inspection with a light later in the evening. I didn't really notice it at first until reviewing the pictures more.
You can see another crack headed out to the 3 o'clock position.
Center dash faux wood trim piece/center A/C vents removed.
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...nnbs-gmt900-tahoe-yukon-today.44151/page-2053
And here is a post about the Dash Skin.
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...nnbs-gmt900-tahoe-yukon-today.44151/page-2057
Company website. Not a bad idea and and a good price, if you do not want to tackle a complete dash replacement.
https://dashskin.com
So here are the discovery pics and copied over the text from the NNBS thread.
I used a plastic panel tool and very carefully popped the 4 tabs on the center speaker cover to reveal the culprit of the 2 center speaker cracks.
1. Zero support in the center of the dash where it meets the front split.
2. Heavy ass Bose center speaker held in place by 2 screws.
3. Zero support on/around/under the Bose speaker.
The speaker is only held in in place with 2 x 7mm screws into the threaded inserts. Very thin tabs to stabilize the speaker and dash in the center with no support.
You can see the cracks originating from the screw holes from the center speaker. Where those threaded insert tabs are x 2 the plastic has cracked where the tab is so the only thing holding it in place is the insert.
So I mixed up some Loctite 5 minute epoxy and started laying down some layers on top and some underneath where I could reach with my finger on the front left crack.
I decided to go ahead and remove the front A/C vent covers and faux wood dash trim piece. Thankfully nothing broke. A few clips, remove the DIC plug and keep in mind that the far passenger vent nearest the door is not part of the assembly. It has its own 7mm screw. The long faux wood trim where it meets the 2 center vent is "very" "very" flimsy and appears to be one of those plastic screws non-removable type job.
Cracks originating from the center speaker screws into the threaded inserts. Top one goes to 10-11 o'clock. The bottom one goes to 6 o'clock. At least that is what I though until further inspection with a light later in the evening. I didn't really notice it at first until reviewing the pictures more.
You can see another crack headed out to the 3 o'clock position.
Center dash faux wood trim piece/center A/C vents removed.
OP
OP
Fosscore
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2014
- Posts
- 10,519
- Reaction score
- 18,256
Parts numbers behind the front dash faux wood trim piece.
DIC plug to the dash.
DIC plug to the dash.
OP
OP
Fosscore
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2014
- Posts
- 10,519
- Reaction score
- 18,256
Laid down some 5 minute epoxy in the late afternoon. Even managed to get some in the big crack at the top and oozed it out a bit on top of the dash. The camera makes it look huge and very noticeable. Sure it is there, but looking from the drivers seat and to the average rider, it is much better.
Got some underneath the big cracks to hold it together top and bottom. I was able to access the bottom crack once I removed the trim piece, so that wasn't completely a wasted effort.
I noticed the crack going to the right more in detail later in the evening, so I mixed up some more and gooped a bit more on that crack and around the areas that I had previously done just to strengthen it a bit.
Will let that sit for another day, just to make sure, then come up with some foam or something to glue and fit under the center speaker to brace/support and keep it from flopping around, like the other guys have done.
More epoxy and that top crack looks wide open from a top down shot, but it has epoxy in there and is not separating so I am happy with that effort.
As well, the bottom crack is together and the side crack should be sorted out now with a gob of epoxy now holding it in place.
Still shocking how brittle and thin the plastic really is and lack of some sort of structural support for that center speaker. Alas, victory of no more rattling will be achieved. Just removing the speaker did that even before I epoxied it and once it had some bottom support, it should be much better.
Got some underneath the big cracks to hold it together top and bottom. I was able to access the bottom crack once I removed the trim piece, so that wasn't completely a wasted effort.
I noticed the crack going to the right more in detail later in the evening, so I mixed up some more and gooped a bit more on that crack and around the areas that I had previously done just to strengthen it a bit.
Will let that sit for another day, just to make sure, then come up with some foam or something to glue and fit under the center speaker to brace/support and keep it from flopping around, like the other guys have done.
More epoxy and that top crack looks wide open from a top down shot, but it has epoxy in there and is not separating so I am happy with that effort.
As well, the bottom crack is together and the side crack should be sorted out now with a gob of epoxy now holding it in place.
Still shocking how brittle and thin the plastic really is and lack of some sort of structural support for that center speaker. Alas, victory of no more rattling will be achieved. Just removing the speaker did that even before I epoxied it and once it had some bottom support, it should be much better.
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2011
- Posts
- 50,346
- Reaction score
- 17,123
Am I the only one who giggled at the part number label where it said “....w/DIC hole...” ? 
OP
OP
Fosscore
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2014
- Posts
- 10,519
- Reaction score
- 18,256
Am I the only one who giggled at the part number label where it said “....w/DIC hole...” ?
Nope. Knew the teenagers would roll in at some point. But yes hilarious.
HiHoeSilver
Away!
Am I the only one who giggled at the part number label where it said “....w/DIC hole...” ?
Nope. Knew the teenagers would roll in at some point. But yes hilarious.
I am also in this club. Lol
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2011
- Posts
- 50,346
- Reaction score
- 17,123
Nope. Knew the teenagers would roll in at some point. But yes hilarious.
OP
OP
Fosscore
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2014
- Posts
- 10,519
- Reaction score
- 18,256
Decided to look further into the cracks forward a little more before reinstalling the center speaker. Not wanting to deal with removing the passenger airbag as that top bit is attached to the airbag, so I pulled the front part of the dash out.
Different than just pulling off the NBS A pillars. The NNBS has a 7mm bolt x 1 on the drivers side. The passenger A pillar has 2 x 10mm bolts in the grab handle. Then the front dash, which is hooked underneath the A pillars will pull up at the split and then away from the windshield and out. There are 6 of the usual GM metal push clips on some very thin plastic at the split and 4 plastic tabs that slide forward towards the windshield. I have 3 broken tabs and as shown, the openings that they slide into are cracked. The center opening directly in front of the center speaker is such a thin piece of plastic that the opening and the tab broke completely off.
I went ahead and epoxied all the cracks, which will be under the front dash piece to hopefully keep them from getting any wider. Probably will set the cracks off elsewhere lol ,but figured since I had things apart this time, mig
The cracks by the passenger airbag are together now, but not totally flush. They do look better, not perfect, but at least for now the broken parts/cracks are a unit rather than all separate pieces for the time being.
Once I get that center speaker supported, the dash should stop rattling around. Had the truck on the road for lacrosse trip today and the dash sat still and was quiet even with the broken tabs up front that I am going to epoxy them back on.
Pics of the passenger airbag cracks.
Different than just pulling off the NBS A pillars. The NNBS has a 7mm bolt x 1 on the drivers side. The passenger A pillar has 2 x 10mm bolts in the grab handle. Then the front dash, which is hooked underneath the A pillars will pull up at the split and then away from the windshield and out. There are 6 of the usual GM metal push clips on some very thin plastic at the split and 4 plastic tabs that slide forward towards the windshield. I have 3 broken tabs and as shown, the openings that they slide into are cracked. The center opening directly in front of the center speaker is such a thin piece of plastic that the opening and the tab broke completely off.
I went ahead and epoxied all the cracks, which will be under the front dash piece to hopefully keep them from getting any wider. Probably will set the cracks off elsewhere lol ,but figured since I had things apart this time, mig
The cracks by the passenger airbag are together now, but not totally flush. They do look better, not perfect, but at least for now the broken parts/cracks are a unit rather than all separate pieces for the time being.
Once I get that center speaker supported, the dash should stop rattling around. Had the truck on the road for lacrosse trip today and the dash sat still and was quiet even with the broken tabs up front that I am going to epoxy them back on.
Pics of the passenger airbag cracks.
