That is the tab that holds the adjusting nut in place. What probably happened is it broke off and let the adjusting nut back out just a little and that is what caused the damage to the bearing. It can be fixed.
Front differential. Rebuild or replace
- Thread starter Dan2002
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Erickk120
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I'm not too familar with ifs's as I'm with solid axles. Looks like the tabs that hold the carrier bearing preload in place broke/felloff, not sure how they are held. You probably lost preload causing loosened backlash and likely some whine. Check to see if you have pinion play. If it has some resistance to turn it and if its tight/zero play in and out up and down. It means its in good shape. As long as the bearings werent pitted from metallic fluid flowing in the oil. What did the oil look like when drained?
Here are the options
You can dismantle it and inspect the pinion bearings, if they aren't pitted and look fine you can get away with just buying new carrier bearings and adjust the backlash and carrier preload and call it good as new.
Before getting ahead of my self, you would need a dial indicator pretty cheap at harbor and a beam style torque wrench, to measure the pinion preload. Also a new crush sleeve and seal would be nice while at it. About 130 dollars in part and oil. If you go this route please record the current pinion preload to set it at the same preload or close to as spec as per used bearings.
Buy a new/used unit if it can be found within your budget.
There are plenty of guides online for these units, as long as the pinion bearings aren't toast you have a good shot at building it without having to mess with pinion shims. Its when you need new pinion bearings that messing with pinion depth can get you in a world of trouble. So just check the state of the pinion bearings before hand, and record what rotational preload it had with the beam wrench.
Here are the options
You can dismantle it and inspect the pinion bearings, if they aren't pitted and look fine you can get away with just buying new carrier bearings and adjust the backlash and carrier preload and call it good as new.
Before getting ahead of my self, you would need a dial indicator pretty cheap at harbor and a beam style torque wrench, to measure the pinion preload. Also a new crush sleeve and seal would be nice while at it. About 130 dollars in part and oil. If you go this route please record the current pinion preload to set it at the same preload or close to as spec as per used bearings.
Buy a new/used unit if it can be found within your budget.
There are plenty of guides online for these units, as long as the pinion bearings aren't toast you have a good shot at building it without having to mess with pinion shims. Its when you need new pinion bearings that messing with pinion depth can get you in a world of trouble. So just check the state of the pinion bearings before hand, and record what rotational preload it had with the beam wrench.
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Erickk120
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This is the tab, you can get them at the dealer too.
https://www.amazon.com/Yukon-YSPSA-009-Bearing-Adjuster-Differential/dp/B00EHN4D7M
Just realized the actual spanner to tighten the carrier bearings is like 70 bucks, so that came out of nowhere.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Yukon-Ge...MIl8Tjs6-_4AIVC77ACh1edQfREAQYAyABEgLMkvD_BwE
I guess you can use something else or make your own tool, but not sure about your level of ingenuity.
Although considering just one adjuster has moved, I would try to get the same OE bearings probably timkens, and install the races and press the bearings into the carrier and bolt the case together, tighten the adjuster that loosened, then check backlash and hopefully you get lucky and the backlash is within spec. if not you will have to adjust the other one depending if you need more or less backlash. then you tighten them both tight not sure about spec but can be looked up.
The only challenge I see here is having a tool to move the dang adjusters if you need to.
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If it were me, I would do just this part of Erickk120's advice. I bet your pinion bearing is OK and it is just the carrier bearings that need to be changed. This would be the most cost effective easiest fix. Others would say that you would be crazy to just do this and everything should be changed and it needs a total rebuild. They would have a point but in that case I would just buy one with a warranty or mileage guarantee and install it my self.
