Front end Noise Need help!

[Rocket Man]

Not back on track.
Need new rotors and pads, will order them this week.
I'm looking for a little info on the sway bar end links. Mine have some slack in them but can not be tightened anymore. One thing I remember with my 2dr was when I lowered the front I had to get new shorter end links. Does this apply to the NNBS as well? If so does anyone have the part numbers for the correct end links?
I know for sure, then ends links are some of the noise in my front end. Not all haha.
I'm seriously debating about getting new calipers to.
Has anyone tried aftermarket calipers? Or, are they all rebuilt OE calipers with a company name painted on them?
Thanks

Yes, if you lower or raise you should adjust the sway bar endlink lengths. If you go to www.energysuspension.com and hit “download catalog” then scroll to about page 8 it describes how to measure and order the correct length. Then if you get the p/n you can shop online. Amazon carries them.

 

[992dr]

Yes, if you lower or raise you should adjust the sway bar endlink lengths. If you go to www.energysuspension.com and hit “download catalog” then scroll to about page 8 it describes how to measure and order the correct length. Then if you get the p/n you can shop online. Amazon carries them.

Thank you my friend, I appreciate it

 

[kbuskill]

Thank you my friend, I appreciate it

Moog 700528 are 3.25" with 2 bushings and the center sleeve... so 3.25" from sway bar to lower control arm.

These were perfect for me with the 4" drop up front to bring the sway bar back down to being parallel with the ground.

They are white polyurethane.

Just FYI.

 

[OR VietVet]

When you said you turn the wheel a little to the right the noise goes away. When you turn slightly right you are loading the left front wheel bearing and typically that would mean with a bad bearing like you said you found, that the noise should be louder till you turn back left and unload that bearing. I would definitely change both while you have the tools out and parts availability. This is all typically what is done when searching for a noise that just started and then the bearing, while being bad, is not way loose. In your case the bearing may be bad enough, you said lots of play when checking at 12 and 6, that it will make noises no matter which way you load it.

 

[992dr]

When you said you turn the wheel a little to the right the noise goes away. When you turn slightly right you are loading the left front wheel bearing and typically that would mean with a bad bearing like you said you found, that the noise should be louder till you turn back left and unload that bearing. I would definitely change both while you have the tools out and parts availability. This is all typically what is done when searching for a noise that just started and then the bearing, while being bad, is not way loose. In your case the bearing may be bad enough, you said lots of play when checking at 12 and 6, that it will make noises no matter which way you load it.

I am definitely changing both, better to be safe than sorry. I'm waiting on my brake parts and end links so I don't have to do it twice. Actually, it has no play checking 12/6. That's what kind of through me off.

 

[OR VietVet]

In the over 35 years I ran auto repair shops and roadtested for bearing noises I always was able to load the front end, left or right, and pick up which bearing was causing problems or both of them doing it. Smart to wait on the other parts that you will be close to anyway when you do the bearing replacements.

 

[992dr]

That's exactly what pointed me to the bearings when turning the wheel and loading each side.
You can hear and feel it certain situations. Ahh the joys of being a car guy you just have a feel for it haha, isn't it great.

 

[OR VietVet]

After doing it for 35+ years, some things just don't change from one year to the next. Hope the noises get gone.

 

[992dr]

You know what sucks?
When you get all your sh*t together every disassembled and find out you have the wrong hubs.

Ordered part# 515097 hubs and they do not have the tapped hubs to secure the rotor. It is pictured with the it tapped but the ones I got were not tapped. It is the correct bolt pattern.


Can someone please verify if the tapped hub is necessary?

Is this more of a convenience thing to hold them in place?

Can I use them?

 

[wjburken]

You know what sucks?
When you get all your sh*t together every disassembled and find out you have the wrong hubs.

Ordered part# 515097 hubs and they do not have the tapped hubs to secure the rotor. It is pictured with the it tapped but the ones I got were not tapped. It is the correct bolt pattern.


Can someone please verify if the tapped hub is necessary?

Is this more of a convenience thing to hold them in place?

Can I use them?

That flat head machine screw just holds it in place while you get the wheel mounted. It isn’t necessary if you ask me.