Haha sorry I was just saying that to everyone on this site who asks why I can't go with 3" level in the front. You have to stay under 2.5" as it kills the cv angles and tie rods never mind what it does to the UCAs. 2wd can get away with it as it only kills the tie rods but without UCAs the stock arms sit on droop stops at ride height so not recommended either.
I noticed your UCAs look to be resting if not very super close to the droop stops. I would get some lift UCAs and drop down to 2.5" if you more at 3". The hoe looks good though and like the parts you put on it.
Whew...Roger and Wilco! I have already decided to order the UCA's and a small diff drop. Honestly, I am at 2.75 (was 2.9 first 200ish miles) in front and I would do UCA's with a 2.0 seeing what I see now. As far as diff drop, can't decide on seeing if someone like Fabtech will separate their relocate from the 4inch or go with small spacers like these...
http://supremesuspensions.com/produ...do-gmc-sierra-1500-differential-drop-kit-4wd/.
I agree on no more than 2.5 and always felt that may push stock UCA and diff so this was no surprise to me. With all the driving I do and being 50-50 on/off pavement, angles mean a ton to me! Anyhow, thanks for the clarification. Hope to see your comments when I write my thread, this forum has helped a bunch since my SUV convert started and I feel like I owe a good write up back. There are enough "how-to's" out there, so mine will focus more on thought process, part numbers and tips on install for the non "do it yourselfer's". I have prided myself on not taking a vehicle to a shop in over 30 years or so now (minus tires and alignments) and hope to help those folks wondering if they can do it to save some bucks. Now I have to decide how much gas mileage I wanna have with my tire decision....the 'ol size debate. I subscribe to your advice on "why not stick with a lower weight tire" if E rating is not needed, but I tow a lot and run rough roads so thinking 285's or 295's at this point... found some nice 305's for a good price, but there is the sway bar thing....see I listen! Also, its hard to look at your set up and not want to go with a 6 inch Fabtech (like their products), but I promised myself to stay tame on this one! Catch ya later man!
I will be doing all the work myself minus the alignment. If the shop I do my work at had an alignment machine I would for sure take a crack at it but idt they would be able to afford that kind of stuff. We just got a new 4 point lift so thats nice. I work for the cg and we have an auto hobby shop with all tools needed for almost anything. They guy that runs shop does good and tries to order new tools that are needed here and there as long as they don't break the bank for him.
I have read many of posts about not going over 3" but have never really seen what kind of damage it could do and those CV angles are pretty bad. I bet with 4x4 engaged it will make some noise for sure. I wish I had this extra cash to throw a 4" lift on it and do it right. But things just don't fall like that when you want them to.
Yep, sounds like you will be set to go once you get parts with the access to a shop. I will be one of those guys as well to say...do not go 3 without what Konvict and I discussed above...and even then I would recommend waiting on a true 4 with relocate or more. As you stated, my angles are a little crappy and here in the AK interior I run in Auto for 1-2 months and 4HI for 4-5 months of the year (for the most part).
Anyhoo- I added my costs up for ya and the parts ran me back roughly $1575 including random other parts not listed above. Will have a complete list on my thread with Part #'s or links.
Take care-
Dave
Edit- AppocAlexx: You are in the CG there? You know a Kevin Riley? He is an x Army heli pilot I used to fly with years ago that flies with you guys now, hes been in Kodiak for a year or so now.
