front wheel bearings - 4WD

[OR VietVet]

I did both hubs from Timken bought on ebay

I have bought a few things at ebay recently and noticed that the sellers seem to almost over protect what they are shipping. Takes forever to unwrap that bubble wrap sometimes.

 

[DaveO9]

I was going to recommend oreillly's for the hubs because they had the best price, but that's gone up, they were $177 now they are $268
so amazon wins at a best price of $96.82 for oem.
just be aware the abs connector plastic tends to get smashed in shipping, happens all the time. if your old sensor is still good then you can swap it in if one arrives smashed

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-FW346-Original-Equipment-Assembly/dp/B07FZFJ61G/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2MX3EH6RJXMF0&keywords=fw346&qid=1686666003&sprefix=fw346%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-1

Oh wow, thanks for this link! I was not finding OEM on Amazon just by searching. And I was not finding this cheap anywhere for anything GM or Delco. The part numbers are confusing. RA has a Delco 515096A for $180, and they have a GM Genuine 84856653, for $213. (yes, that's for just one). Searching for the Delco P/N on Amazon brings up a bunch of cheaper aftermarket stuff, but no real Delcos I could see. Searching for the GM P/N brought up just one hub assembly, not the right one, and a whole bunch of other random stuff: tools, toys, stereo install adapters, etc.! Weird. I have two of the Amazon FW346 for $96.82 ea in my cart now, but not pulling the trigger until I check ball joints, etc. in a couple days.

Any worry that the GM hub assembly on Amazon is a counterfeit?

 

[DaveO9]

After further diagnosis with the help of a shop owner friend - it’s actually the upper ball joints that are causing the play. Replace just the joints themselves with GM or whole upper control arm?

 

[Doubeleive]

After further diagnosis with the help of a shop owner friend - it’s actually the upper ball joints that are causing the play. Replace just the joints themselves with GM or whole upper control arm?

whole control arm, doing just the ball joint is a lot of labor, old one has to be ground off. It's not really a serviceable part per say but can be done

 

[OR VietVet]

After further diagnosis with the help of a shop owner friend - it’s actually the upper ball joints that are causing the play. Replace just the joints themselves with GM or whole upper control arm?

I gotta say, if you had the truck lifted at the center front crossmember and wheels were at full droop, that takes a bunch of arm strength to get play out of the upper ball joint. Unless that joint is very bad. That is when they are under full load. If you lifted that side with a jack under the lower control arm near the lower ball joint area, that takes the load off the joints and will be way easier to get play out of ball joints, especially if you use a pry bar under the tire at 6:00. How were the ball joints checked?

Either way, yes, do the complete arm and ball joint assembly and use Genuine GM when you can.

 

[donjetman]

After further diagnosis with the help of a shop owner friend - it’s actually the upper ball joints that are causing the play. Replace just the joints themselves with GM or whole upper control arm?

whole control arm

 

[DaveO9]

I gotta say, if you had the truck lifted at the center front crossmember and wheels were at full droop, that takes a bunch of arm strength to get play out of the upper ball joint. Unless that joint is very bad. That is when they are under full load. If you lifted that side with a jack under the lower control arm near the lower ball joint area, that takes the load off the joints and will be way easier to get play out of ball joints, especially if you use a pry bar under the tire at 6:00. How were the ball joints checked?

Either way, yes, do the complete arm and ball joint assembly and use Genuine GM when you can.

Hmmmm. I was going off what RA's site says when you look up front wheel bearings:

Shake Test: Identifying Play or Looseness

1. Lift your vehicle so the wheel is off the ground
2. Place your hands on the sides of the tire and try to shake the wheel
3. Now place your hands on the top and bottom of the tire and try to shake the wheel again
4. If you feel movement in both directions, you have play in your bearing and it needs to be replaced
5. Note: If you feel movement when shaking the wheel left to right, but not top to bottom, you could have a worn out tie rod end. Similarly, if you have movement top to bottom, but not left to right, you may have a worn out ball joint.

Spin Test: Identifying Noise or Grinding

1. Lift your vehicle so the wheel is off the ground and can spin freely
2. Spin the wheel, in either direction, and listen for a grinding or howling noise
3. If you hear a loud grinding or howling noise, that increases with the speed of the wheel, you have a failed bearing that needs to be replaced
4. Note: It is best to test both front or both rear bearings at the same time so you can compare the difference between the two sides. If you have a failed bearing, there will be a noticeable difference in the amount of noise you hear during this test

I wasn't there when the shop owner friend did his diagnosis. I'll jack it up tomorrow to verify that they're tight side-to-side. The bearings feel smooth as silk on the spin test, no noise at all.

One question regarding the GM Genuine control arm assembly. (P/N 25812725/6) RA has this note: "Visual Inspection Required to ID Control Arm & Ball Joint Design" It doesn't have this note for any of the other brands, what are we inspecting and how do we verify correct fit?

 

[OR VietVet]

Hmmmm. I was going off what RA's site says when you look up front wheel bearings:

Shake Test: Identifying Play or Looseness

1. Lift your vehicle so the wheel is off the ground
2. Place your hands on the sides of the tire and try to shake the wheel
3. Now place your hands on the top and bottom of the tire and try to shake the wheel again
4. If you feel movement in both directions, you have play in your bearing and it needs to be replaced
5. Note: If you feel movement when shaking the wheel left to right, but not top to bottom, you could have a worn out tie rod end. Similarly, if you have movement top to bottom, but not left to right, you may have a worn out ball joint.

Spin Test: Identifying Noise or Grinding

1. Lift your vehicle so the wheel is off the ground and can spin freely
2. Spin the wheel, in either direction, and listen for a grinding or howling noise
3. If you hear a loud grinding or howling noise, that increases with the speed of the wheel, you have a failed bearing that needs to be replaced
4. Note: It is best to test both front or both rear bearings at the same time so you can compare the difference between the two sides. If you have a failed bearing, there will be a noticeable difference in the amount of noise you hear during this test

I wasn't there when the shop owner friend did his diagnosis. I'll jack it up tomorrow to verify that they're tight side-to-side. The bearings feel smooth as silk on the spin test, no noise at all.

One question regarding the GM Genuine control arm assembly. (P/N 25812725/6) RA has this note: "Visual Inspection Required to ID Control Arm & Ball Joint Design" It doesn't have this note for any of the other brands, what are we inspecting and how do we verify correct fit?

You answered your own question. I was saying how to check the ball joints. The wheel bearing can be checked with the tires/wheels at full droop or when lifted under the lower control arm at the lower ball joint. When the tire is off the ground, lifted any way you want, there is no load on that bearing except the weight of the tire/wheel bolted to it and the brake components that are there.

 

[DaveO9]

You answered your own question. I was saying how to check the ball joints. The wheel bearing can be checked with the tires/wheels at full droop or when lifted under the lower control arm at the lower ball joint. When the tire is off the ground, lifted any way you want, there is no load on that bearing except the weight of the tire/wheel bolted to it and the brake components that are there.

My latest question is why does Rock Auto have that note about verifying the design of the ball joint when none of the other brands have that note. The note is talking about inspection for fitment, not condition. Your explanation on checking condition is good, no questions there.

 

[OR VietVet]

My latest question is why does Rock Auto have that note about verifying the design of the ball joint when none of the other brands have that note. The note is talking about inspection for fitment, not condition. Your explanation on checking condition is good, no questions there.

Can you post a link to what RA is saying/prompting you about? I may be confused because of your translation. Thanks