Frustrated with 2005 Tahoe suspension!

[hertahoe]

So the story goes back a long time...When I purchased the 05 Tahoe back in 08 for my wife, I knew it was lowered but the sales guy said it was stock. So I have been slowly trying to track down the issues. I have replaced the rear suspension with SOCALS 2/3 drop with shocks, link ends and springs. I also have helper bags installed and free travel mod. Front has new Bilstein 4600, replaced tie rod ends a few years back. Spindles are stock. I have new sway bar links for front as well waiting to be installed. After installing the new shocks, it still feels like the shocks have 300k miles on them. Control arms look OK. Hitting a bump on freeway and it feels like the tires are bouncing. There seems to be no isolation and the ride is a bit jarring. Torsion bars bolts are about in the middle. 125k and zero rust! Put on 20" wheels and tires back in January of this year. They have been exceptional tires, Nexen Roadian AT Pro RA8. Ride is smooth and quiet. They did amazing in a foot of snow on the freeway and side roads. I have read many threads trying to understand the different aspects of the suspension, but no clue on my next step.

PS - after years of being on forums, I still have issues posting pics - FML!

 

[iamdub]

So the overall ride is harsh as if you're driving a go-cart? To me "shocks with 300K on them" would ride soft and floaty, like a boat. If it's lowered with stock spindles, then it has to have de-cranked torsion bars. These things practically ride (in the front) with the control arms on the bump stops as it is, so de-cranking would put the control arm even harder on the bump stop. If you want to keep it lowered, I'd suggest cranking the bars to lift it back up then use drop spindles.

 

[Rocket Man]

Contrary to what you might think, the front “bump stops” in your torsion bar suspension are not bump stops but instead “jounce stops” which are meant to be used as a fulcrum point. If they’re deteriorated or missing, your ride will be terrible. But if there’s too much weight on them, the ride will also be terrible. I’ve seen on some FB pages that people are removing the jounce stops and cutting the mounts off, and then wondering why their suspension went to shit. Look at them, as well as the sway bar end links and bushings. Then like @iamdub said, get some drop spindles. Mines dropped with 2” drop spindles and when my jounce stops started deteriorating I noticed the ride starting to get bad. My control arms rest on the new jounce stops pretty good and my keys are in stock position. It rides great again.

 

[iamdub]

Contrary to what you might think, the front “bump stops” in your torsion bar suspension are not bump stops but instead “jounce stops” which are meant to be used as a fulcrum point. If they’re deteriorated or missing, your ride will be terrible. But if there’s too much weight on them, the ride will also be terrible. I’ve seen on some FB pages that people are removing the jounce stops and cutting the mounts off, and then wondering why their suspension went to shit. Look at them, as well as the sway bar end links and bushings. Then like @iamdub said, get some drop spindles. Mines dropped with 2” drop spindles and when my jounce stops started deteriorating I noticed the ride starting to get bad. My control arms rest on the new jounce stops pretty good and my keys are in stock position. It rides great again.

Interesting. I never knew there was a difference but this makes sense since they rest on them and where they're located.

 

[hertahoe]

So the overall ride is harsh as if you're driving a go-cart? To me "shocks with 300K on them" would ride soft and floaty, like a boat. If it's lowered with stock spindles, then it has to have de-cranked torsion bars. These things practically ride (in the front) with the control arms on the bump stops as it is, so de-cranking would put the control arm even harder on the bump stop. If you want to keep it lowered, I'd suggest cranking the bars to lift it back up then use drop spindles.

Yes and no. Going over expansion joints gives a harsh bump and it seems like the tires float/soft. Again, it's not slammed by no means, just lower than stock. I will look at going with spindles. Thanks for the feedback.

 

[Rocket Man]

Interesting. I never knew there was a difference but this makes sense since they rest on them and where they're located.

Yeah, the jounce stops are an integral part of the torsion bar system and are important to its operation.

 

[iamdub]

Yeah, the jounce stops are an integral part of the torsion bar system and are important to its operation.

Then this has to be the OP's issue since it's not lowered with spindles.

Darren, You could crank your bars up as a test. It'll only take about 10 minutes. Jack it up until the wheels are off the ground and crank the bolts clockwise (tightening). 4-6 turns should be enough to test and should lift it about 1-2 inches. Turn them an even amount and count accurately so you'll be able to put them back where they were afterwards. If the ride is improved, then you know what you'll need to do. Crank them back down (assuming it was aligned at the lowered height) and start shopping for spindles.

Might wanna get some new jounce stops, too.

 

[Rocket Man]

If the jounce stops are toast it won’t fix the problem by cranking the keys way up. But why listen to someone who has experience with this- if you don't believe me @hertahoe just google “Tahoe jounce stops” and read up. The lifted crowd has the same issue and they either add an extra rubber bumper to the control arm or weld a bracket so the jounce stop can make contact.

 

[iamdub]

If the jounce stops are toast it won’t fix the problem by cranking the keys way up. But why listen to someone who has experience with this- if you don't believe me @hertahoe just google “Tahoe jounce stops” and read up. The lifted crowd has the same issue and they either add an extra rubber bumper to the control arm or weld a bracket so the jounce stop can make contact.

I didn't mean to crank them "way" up. Just put it back to stock height like where yours is. Of course, this is all assuming it was lowered in the front to begin with. After re-reading his first post, I see that I read "2/3..." as a 2" front drop/3" rear drop. He has a 3" drop coil kit that comes with the 1" spacer as an option to make it a 2" net drop, so the front may not be lowered at all. Pics would help. lol

 

[Rocket Man]

I didn't mean to crank them "way" up. Just put it back to stock height like where yours is. Of course, this is all assuming it was lowered in the front to begin with. After re-reading his first post, I see that I read "2/3..." as a 2" front drop/3" rear drop. He has a 3" drop coil kit that comes with the 1" spacer as an option to make it a 2" net drop, so the front may not be lowered at all. Pics would help. lol

He also said the adjusting bolts were about in the middle so Im thinking they weren’t adjusted at all.