Fuel additives

[Rygrego]

Thanks for your reply!
Any advice on how to keep
Carbon of the valves?
I’m an old man and this has
To be my last truck
Thanks

I remove the line from the pcv valve and with the engine running spray a full can of CRC Intake Cleaner through the hose until empty then let it heat soak for about an hour then go out find an open road and drive it like you stole it. Every year or so and you'll have no problems.

 

[CMoore711]

I remove the line from the pcv valve and with the engine running spray a full can of CRC Intake Cleaner through the hose until empty then let it heat soak for about an hour then go out find an open road and drive it like you stole it. Every year or so and you'll have no problems.

Depending on vehicle age and mileage any harm in doing something like this if you’ve never done it before?

Say 8-10 yr old vehicle 100K+ miles?

(Asking for a friend…)

 

[jfoj]

With the newer DI gasoline engines, there are a few things you should be doing.

From a good authority, this is what I have been advised.

1. Use a Top Tier fuel with a good amount of detergents. Then in addition to this you should probably be running something like the Techron Fuel Additive (or something that has similar ingredents) every 4th fill up. The DI injectors are in a far more harsh environment and are subject to carbon and fuel deposit buildup due to the heat and pressures the injectors are subjected to. Buildup on the injectors can and will impact the fuel delivery and spray pattern on DI engines, this leads to all sorts of issues in the long term. On older port fuel injection engines, this was not nearly as much of an issue.

2. On moden DI engines, highly suggest running a catch can. This will help reduce, but may not eliminate carbon build up on the back of the intake valves. There are a number quality catch cans available from vendors such as JL and K&N for typically around $150 and others are available even cheaper, but often you can get the system with the correct length hoses with quick connects and mouting brackets to make the installaton quick and easy. Worth the small investment IMHO. Just remember to check the catch can at least every 1000-1500 miles until you get a feel for how often is needs to be emptied.

3. Check your engine oil level every few fill ups, especially in the colder weather as fuel diluction can and will cause higher oil consumption. If you remote start your engine, or want to allow it to idle and warm up, be forwarned, this can cause a much higher amount of fuel to contaminate the engine oil as compared to starting the engine and driving the vehicle.

4. Change your oil when your OLM hits 25% or earlier, stretching out the oil change interveal in modern DI engines is not a wise idea. Whom ever came up with the 15,000 mile oils and filters is really screwing anyone that follows this lead. If you plan on running oil this long, get an oil sampler to pull oil for anaysis, but when the oil analysis is close to $40, you might as well just change the oil and filter, it is not much more than oil anaylsis if if you perform your own oil changes and shop around for sales and deals on oil and filters.

 

[B-train]

Depending on vehicle age and mileage any harm in doing something like this if you’ve never done it before?

Say 8-10 yr old vehicle 100K+ miles?

(Asking for a friend…)

I have a mixed review on this one from experience. I've done the seafoam dissolving treatment a few times now ans the last time was after a good stretch of miles on my 2017. I did get some rough running and misfires after the 30 minute heat soak when driven "spirirtedly." I attributed it to small pieces of carbon holding the valve partially open as chunks broke off and got processed........almost needed new underwear after that one.

That being said, I'm still a fan of it, but I wish there was a way to just hook something up and drive for an extended highway cruise that would dissolve it and eat it as it goes, not cause chunks to crumble off. Walnut blasting sounds awesome.......but not the pulling the heads part.

 

[Donf]

I remember when you could buy a "water injection system" waaaaaay back when cars had carbureted engines. Really just delivered water througha vacuum port on the intake manifold. Buddy of mine had a Winnebago with over 100,000 mile on it when he installed it. Thing slowly ran worse and worse over hundreds of mile until it just would run with enough power to barely propel the beast down the highway. Took it to a nearby RV dealer/service center. When the wrench saw the water system he explained that those vehiles had carbon build up problems and that he'd clogged his muffler with 10 years of carbon build up, replace the muffler and all was good. Being a young guy at the time I just held the throttle open on a 427 of mine that had a sticky float for some time and trickled several gallons of water down the carb. It may have run a bit better or not. But, I have never repeated that stunt.

Before I hit the "Post Reply" button I thought I ought to Google this water injection thing because nobody's going to believe that anybody would do that. Turns out, lots of people did it years ago and, apparently for good reason. I am including one link below that is both semi-educational and slightly entertaining. (But doing what I did is apparently not done by anyone with 1/2 a brain although my wife tells me that I would be qualified in doing it.........)

Vintage Water Injection - The Stovebolt Forum

www.stovebolt.com

 

[jfoj]

Donf,

Water injection is nothing new. Used on airplanes in WWII, Oldmobile had water injection standard on its 1962 turbo charged aluminum block V8 Jetfire. Many even adapted water injection to run on windshield wiper fluid (mixture of water & methanol).

As you did on your 427, some even drizzled water in the carburetor to try and rid the combustion chambers of carbon, but you had to be careful as liquids are non compressible.

The problem today is the back of the intake valves can become carboned up and water or even other hydrocarbon based products do not magically make the carbon disappear.