Fuel gauge reads "E" at all times

[Phantom240]

Theoretically, if I found a cluster that DIDN'T do these shenanigans, would I be able to just swap the bad parts? I know the PCM was worked into the mix for my particular model year, does that make a difference?

 

[_Dylan_]

read my mind.

I just checked my cluster, the gauge is bolted in with 2 T9 torx screws.



I will likely be swapping the good motor from my 97 into this 99 cluster.

To remove the cluster:
pull off dask bezel
unplug headlight, 4x4/rear hatch/fog/rear wiper switches
trans in 1st gear and steering wheel tilted all the way down to remove the dash bezel
4 7mm screws to remove the cluster

clear housing unclips
push on the pins of the gauge motors to seperate the gauge face from the back
use a fork to pry off fuel gauge needle
2 T9 screws to remove motor
replace motor


I would fill the truck all the way up with fuel and then stick the needle back on about a 1/8" past F with the gauge plugged in the truck.
Then clip the clear housing back on and put the dash back together.

 

[SunlitComet]

your gonna worry about the charging voltage too.

---------- Post added at 10:16 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:14 AM ----------

the gauge should be the same for swapping.

 

[Phantom240]

Wait, what about charging voltage? It settles back at 14v a couple seconds after starting.

 

[SunlitComet]

very cold where you are at?

 

[Phantom240]

That was very cold. Physically at about 52 degrees, hadn't been started since a couple days prior.

 

[SunlitComet]

make sure it goes down as ambient and engine temp go up.

 

[Phantom240]

I'll run it a bit today after work, take it around the neighborhood a few times now that I have a plate and insurance for it, and I'll report back my findings. Also, I'm gonna put my multimeter on the battery to see how far off the gauge might be.

 

[Phantom240]

Still a little bit high, but this was after about a ten minute venture.

 

[_Dylan_]

whats the voltage using a multimeter?